Is there a Auto size option in Carscanner ?
A constant size may not work with the myriad sizes of display folks have.
Budget Battery Capacity Readout
- Thread starter MrFixit
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Is there a Auto size option in Carscanner ?
A constant size may not work with the myriad sizes of display folks have.
MrFixit
Well-Known Member
I don't see any kind of 'auto'.
I just looked at this on a phone and the sizes were set to 16, 48, 16.
I'll send another version of the backup file with these settings because it looks ridiculous when someone posts a screenshot.
Updated set attached... Only change is the text size on the dashboards.
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I, too, wonder if the Clarity PHEV illuminates its brake lights when the ACC slows the car. I don't believe that the paddles ever cause the brake lights to come on, but they cannot slow the car as much as the ACC must do to maintain a safe forward distance. The cheap, ugly way to figure this out is to tape some aluminum foil over the high-mounted center brake light in such a way that you can detect its glow in your rear-view mirror. I've never tried out this ridiculous idea.
Because I couldn't stand not knowing when my small, sporty BEV turned on its brake lights in response to regen braking, I mounted an interior LED in the housing at the top of the hatch and wired it to the high-mounted center brake light. When looking in my rear-view mirror, I was disappointed to discover the brake lights come on in response to the slightest bit of deceleration. Since mounting that LED I've adjusted my driving style to minimize brake-light illumination. I no longer rocket away from a stoplight and then slow down to the speed limit. Instead, I now rocket away from a stop light and stop accelerating when I reach the speed limit. Interestingly, someone on another Inside EVs forum looked at my BEV's energy usage profiles and claims that rocketing to 35 mph uses no more power than slowly accelerating to that speed. Of course, I took that claim as gospel and looked no deeper into it.
MrFixit
Well-Known Member
I have actually thought about this same approach, but this topic doesn't concern me enough to bother with it. I like the idea of the inside LED indicator, but again, not enough of a worry to motivate me !
It's hard to believe, but I looked through what we know is available through the OBD2 port, and did not see anything that seemed to flag the brake lights.
Here is a similar thread for Chevy Volt:
https://www.gm-volt.com/threads/myvoltcapacity-android-app-via-developer-myvoltapp.333217/
I think it does a bit better than Clarity but it needs some digging to get a better picture.
https://www.gm-volt.com/threads/myvoltcapacity-android-app-via-developer-myvoltapp.333217/
I think it does a bit better than Clarity but it needs some digging to get a better picture.
Ray B
Active Member
I can say that paddles and ACC cause the brake light to come on. I have a steep twisty road a couple miles from my house and the street lighting is limited so at night when looking in the rear-view mirror it is easy to tell when the brake lights come on, and yes ACC and paddles cause it to come on.
In fact, I believe (no proof) that they engineered it so that the brake lights come on when the the regen exceeded the deceleration power that would be normal for engine braking of a similar sized sedan. And yes the brake lights come on even when not slowing down, but maintaining the ACC speed; or even speeding up when the paddles can't overcome the acceleration from the steep road. This is one reason I believe it is not the deceleration rate, but comparing the deceleration power to some threshold which would correspond to real braking in an ICE car without regen.
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Since I brought it up I am going to start a new thread to avoid hijacking this thread since this thread is about getting the software to work.
vicw
Active Member
The sizing on this update looks good on my Pixel 4a 5g phone, with a 6.2" screen, 1080x2340 pixels.
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joethebeekeeper
New Member
The ACC causes the brake lights to turn on in my '19. I use the more expensive method of a hitch mounted bike rack instead of tin foil. My bike reflects the light pretty well, for a moment I think I'm being pulled over.
I don't know what version of MacOS or Windows you're on, but the files are stored on the iPhone in the FILES folder, and further down inside the Car Scanner folder. There is a folder in there called Backups (i.e. Phone -->Files-->Car Scanner-->Backup). Use your syncing method (I use iMazing) to drag the file from your computer download into that Backup folder on the phone and then you can select it for Restore in the Car Scanner app on the phone. That file is compatible with the iPhone.
I do not disagree, but there are other variables - heat, whether you keep it fully charged or discharged, how fast it discharges, etc.
My car was on the floor for months, possibly with low battery, which would have affected the battery.
I would expect that we can estimate the number of charges based on the EV miles divided by the average number of miles you do on one charge.
In my case, I am thinking 25k kms divided by 60 kms average ~= 400 charges. Which also makes sense as I have had the car for 500 days.
that would translate in 36charges = 1% loss so far for me, which is 1.5% each month - 2% in winter, 1% in summer.
This is a bit too much. I will keep monitoring monthly
This is getting tangential, but I would assume ACC does use friction brakes as necessary, since the same basic ACC system is in non-hybrid Hondas where it must. My theory would be that the ACC input goes to the pedal input on both types, and in our cars that means the same mix of regen and friction as if you stepped on the brake pedal for the same level of deceleration.
And I believe the brake lights are intended to come on in those cases just as if you pressed the brake pedal lightly, even if other non-brakelight deceleration (regen or downshifting in a regular car) could be greater.
FWIW: The Honda Development of Electric Powertrain abstract, lists the battery at 27.3Ah. Two in parallel would give the 54.6Ah figure.
JFon101231
Active Member
Is there any difference between these 2 units that have been linked to in this thread? They appear the same...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071D8SYXN
https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-Bluetooth-Scanner-Android-Compatible/dp/B06XGB4873
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071D8SYXN
https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-Bluetooth-Scanner-Android-Compatible/dp/B06XGB4873
MrFixit
Well-Known Member
They are the same.
I bought this one off eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vgate-Car-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I made an accepted offer of $20 but who knows what will be accepted today (at the time of my offer, there was sale with a 5% discount for a Buy-It-Now price of $22.32). The item came in the Vgate plastic box with instructions, etc. This scanner works just great for me with the Car Scanner android app.
LeoP
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vgate-Car-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I made an accepted offer of $20 but who knows what will be accepted today (at the time of my offer, there was sale with a 5% discount for a Buy-It-Now price of $22.32). The item came in the Vgate plastic box with instructions, etc. This scanner works just great for me with the Car Scanner android app.
LeoP
Did another readout with improved fonts size. Last time it was 48.92, now 49.04.much warmer temps lately might have affected the readings.
I also reduced the charger to 12A to slow down the charging, and this might have helped.
So it’s either the temp or the charging speed that has helped a bit.
i guess I will be Able to collect more data over the next year.
MrFixit
Well-Known Member
Clarity Fans:
Attached is a new release of the Car Scanner file set... This supersedes the 03/25 set in Post #222.
Here is a summary of the changes:
1. Full backup which includes all Clarity sensors (except the individual cell voltages), and an enhanced dashboard.
The full backup contains this set of dashboards:
If you like these dashboards, we recommend that you restore the entire backup set.
If you have your own dashboard and just want the new sensors, you can just load the sensors, but BE AWARE that when loading new sensors, all of your dashboard associations will be lost, and you will have to re-connect each entity to the appropriate sensor.
** This has hopefully been fixed, so future releases will not wipe out dashboard settings once you reconnect them **
As usual, any feedback, comments, and suggestions are always welcome.
** Note - There was a recent thread describing an A/C failure **
This was the motivation to add the "A/C Pressure" parameter. There have been other A/C failures in the past, and I think it would be good to have some user feedback so we know what is "normal". The new dashboard should help with this. I would like to solicit some help (it is too cold here for me to run the A/C right now) to characterize A/C pressure data for the following conditions (All with inside temperature set to 75F)... Outside temperatures of 80, 85, 90, 95? The dashboard will show you Inside temperature, Outside temperature and A/C Pressure (psi). This set of data will provide a good sanity check for users to know if the A/C is operating nominally. The other useful pressure is the static pressure when the A/C is off. This pressure varies with ambient temperature (for instance, at 60F, the pressure should be about 60 psi). You can find charts for this (the Clarity uses R1234yf refrigerant). The static pressure should always correspond with the ambient temperature unless the refrigerant is essentially gone.
Attached is a new release of the Car Scanner file set... This supersedes the 03/25 set in Post #222.
Here is a summary of the changes:
- Two new sensors have been added:
- "Distance Traveled Since Battery Disconnect"
- "A/C Pressure"
- added another default dashboard to facilitate A/C diagnosis
- changed the sensor identifiers so associations with custom dashboards will not be lost if a new set of sensors gets imported in the future.
1. Full backup which includes all Clarity sensors (except the individual cell voltages), and an enhanced dashboard.
- 2021-04-18 10-30-18.cbz
- claritypids 041821.csp
- claritypids_indivcells 041821.csp
The full backup contains this set of dashboards:
If you like these dashboards, we recommend that you restore the entire backup set.
If you have your own dashboard and just want the new sensors, you can just load the sensors, but BE AWARE that when loading new sensors, all of your dashboard associations will be lost, and you will have to re-connect each entity to the appropriate sensor.
** This has hopefully been fixed, so future releases will not wipe out dashboard settings once you reconnect them **
As usual, any feedback, comments, and suggestions are always welcome.
** Note - There was a recent thread describing an A/C failure **
This was the motivation to add the "A/C Pressure" parameter. There have been other A/C failures in the past, and I think it would be good to have some user feedback so we know what is "normal". The new dashboard should help with this. I would like to solicit some help (it is too cold here for me to run the A/C right now) to characterize A/C pressure data for the following conditions (All with inside temperature set to 75F)... Outside temperatures of 80, 85, 90, 95? The dashboard will show you Inside temperature, Outside temperature and A/C Pressure (psi). This set of data will provide a good sanity check for users to know if the A/C is operating nominally. The other useful pressure is the static pressure when the A/C is off. This pressure varies with ambient temperature (for instance, at 60F, the pressure should be about 60 psi). You can find charts for this (the Clarity uses R1234yf refrigerant). The static pressure should always correspond with the ambient temperature unless the refrigerant is essentially gone.
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su_A_ve
Active Member
Got Car Scanner and noticed it has a profile for Clarity, so do we need to use these dashboards?
That said, I tried my cheap reader (Kobra) - it’s a wifi one cause at the time I got it, only wifi ones would work with iPhones.
Don’t get a Buffer error but also not getting all the lines. Also, not getting the battery charge either. Any ideas?
That said, I tried my cheap reader (Kobra) - it’s a wifi one cause at the time I got it, only wifi ones would work with iPhones.
Don’t get a Buffer error but also not getting all the lines. Also, not getting the battery charge either. Any ideas?
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