Budget Battery Capacity Readout

su_A_ve said:
Any ideas?
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It is almost certain that your adapter is inadequate. Your screen shot doesn't really go far enough. We need to see what happens after the "22202a" command. There should be a LOT of data after that command (as shown in Post #32 above). You will NOT necessarily get a buffer overflow message... Not all of the bad adapters produce an error message, but they WILL terminate the data prematurely.

We have tried to emphasize the importance of a capable adapter... Buy the recommended $25 adapter and you will be OK.

Our experience has been that almost none of the "cheap" adapters are adequate

su_A_ve said:
Got Car Scanner and noticed it has a profile for Clarity, so do we need to use these dashboards?
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Regarding the Clarity profile in Car Scanner - We provided this profile to Car Scanner. It should yield the same results, BUT since we continue to work on this, the Car Scanner profile is not always current. The "Dashboards" really have nothing to do with the profile, you can set up whatever dashboards you like (whether you use the Clarity profile, or the Custom PID's provided here). We provided these dashboards to make it easier for people to get started. Delete them and make your own as you like.
 
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Got a Vgate OBD device and used Car Scanner. Following patient guidance from @Mr.Fixit on how to sail the sea of acronyms, I got a reading of 48.8 for battery capacity for my 2018 Touring with 36,100 miles.
 
sabasc said:
Is there a separate thread for using this technology to investigate air conditioning status etc?
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Not yet, but if you are interested in helping to investigate, feel free to gather some data and post whatever you find...
It is still too cold here for me to do anything meaningful with the A/C. Maybe in a month or-so, I can try to have a look too.

I think the important thing is to characterize this during stead-state conditions... Constant outside and inside temperatures, and when the system has reached an equilibrium of some sort.
 
Is there a custom PID that tells how many days are left until the engine kicks in? I think this would be useful to keep track of how stale the fuel is and to prevent unwanted surprise engine startup. I wouldn’t want the engine to kick in on a short trip or while in the garage.

Here's my dashboard setting in case anyone wants to use it. I think the CarScanner is way better than the TorquePro even just in the GUI.

IMG_6794 (Small).webp

IMG_6795 (Medium).webp
I'm pretty sure this was after it was accidentally charged to 100%, and then I used 21%.

"dashboard.zip" attached.


My car is a 2019 with 13933 miles, mostly on EV.
In the 1st year, I charged 100% and let the battery management do whatever. But afterwards, I've been actively keeping my charge between 40%-60%, sometimes charge to 80% right before I leave for a longer drive or when I don't want to charge at work. Once a month or so, it accidentally gets charged to 100% due to my Juicebox Pro (EVSE) losing wifi connection at home.

Thanks again to all the work MrFixit & lincomatic put together.
 

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Hoon said:
Is there a custom PID that tells how many days are left until the engine kicks in?
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Thanks for providing the dashboard...
I don't think the engine "kicks in" on a scheduled basis. It obviously runs when necessary for HV operation (either commanded or when the EV range gets to zero). Also when too much regeneration occurs and the battery is full. Otherwise, it will occasionally run for no apparent reason for maintenance purposes. I have never seen anything that can predict this behavior, and in my opinion, I would not have any reason to prevent these random maintenance runs. I am not aware of any PID's that relate to this.
 
IMG_0756.webp

Hi,

I need help interpreting this data from my car scanner.

My car is 2 years old and i am trying to interpret the battery capacity. From the output, i am not sure which way is the best to determine remaining battery capacity.

Option 1: 51.34 Ah x 343 V /1000 = 17.6kwh. Means battery is still 100%

Option 2: Some say 55 Ah is full battery so 51.34/55=93.3% so battery has degraded 6.7% in 2 years

Option 3: battery cell max is 96.19% so battery has degraded 3.81%

Which of those 3 methods is correct?

Thanks

Randy


Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
 
Vancity Randy said:
Option 2: Some say 55 Ah is full battery so 51.34/55=93.3% so battery has degraded 6.7% in 2 years
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I consider "Option 2" to be is 'correct' because this is the measure used by Honda when evaluating warranty eligibility.
Here is how the warranty is defined (from the pre-delivery inspection document):

upload_2021-6-17_6-42-50.webp

I can/t think of a reason to try and convert this to kWh, but if you did, you shouldn't use the voltage from when the battery is fully charged because battery voltage is not constant during discharge. Honda chose to use ampere-hours as the benchmark. Both are measures of total energy and equally valid, but why try and use a measure that you can't relate directly to the warranty?

Option 3 is not valid at all because voltage is not a measure of energy at all. It is energy that moves the vehicle, not voltage.
 
Hoon said:
Is there a custom PID that tells how many days are left until the engine kicks in? I think this would be useful to keep track of how stale the fuel is and to prevent unwanted surprise engine startup. I wouldn’t want the engine to kick in on a short trip or while in the garage.

Here's my dashboard setting in case anyone wants to use it. I think the CarScanner is way better than the TorquePro even just in the GUI.

View attachment 11875

View attachment 11877
I'm pretty sure this was after it was accidentally charged to 100%, and then I used 21%.

"dashboard.zip" attached.


My car is a 2019 with 13933 miles, mostly on EV.
In the 1st year, I charged 100% and let the battery management do whatever. But afterwards, I've been actively keeping my charge between 40%-60%, sometimes charge to 80% right before I leave for a longer drive or when I don't want to charge at work. Once a month or so, it accidentally gets charged to 100% due to my Juicebox Pro (EVSE) losing wifi connection at home.

Thanks again to all the work MrFixit & lincomatic put together.
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I believe the injectors need to be purged of stale gas periodically and the engine will then be run up to operating temp. Some phevs pop a message on screen, but I haven't seen one on the Clarity.
If you drive on gas monthly, you might never experience it, but I run EV almost all the time.
 
Atkinson said:
I believe the injectors need to be purged of stale gas periodically and the engine will then be run up to operating temp. Some phevs pop a message on screen, but I haven't seen one on the Clarity.
If you drive on gas monthly, you might never experience it, but I run EV almost all the time.
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Yes, that is my understanding as well. Purging the injectors to prevent stale gas.
I had the gas engine coming on recently. I pulled out of my garage and then parked there for a few minutes while wiping down my windshield. Then I head a gas engine noise and thought it was another car near by, lol.

The last time my engine kicked in due to gas maintenance was on 4/28. The most recent one this happened was 6/18, so it's about 50 days since.
I drove about 1177 miles since then, all on 100% EV mode without the engine ever kicking in.
I don't think the miles has to do anything, but it probably goes by how many days passed.

The engine was on for about 5 minutes, temperature went up to 180F, then the engine shut off. On my way to work, even after the engine were off, the speed-taco dial was showing the gas engine mode ring (indicating engine mode) all the way around. I left it as is for a few minutes, then it went back to normal EV mode.

I'm planning on doing this experiment one more time waiting until the next purge which should be 8/7/2021 if it's 50 days. After this I'll just get into a habit of using the gas mode once in a while on long stretches.
 
Does anyone in E TN, N GA or W NC have the setup to check battery degradation in a Clarity? Just checking before I embark on putting together the stuff needed myself.
 
Fast Eddie B said:
Does anyone in E TN, N GA or W NC have the setup to check battery degradation in a Clarity? Just checking before I embark on putting together the stuff needed myself.
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@Fast Eddie B
Although I am not close enough to run a check for you, I am more than happy to assist you in getting your own setup running.
This thread has gotten a little cluttered, so if you have any doubt / questions as to how to proceed, feel free to send me a PM and I can walk you through it. It may appear more challenging than it really is.
 
You guys are awesome! I'm about as car illiterate as it comes and I got the number real quick. I'm so excited I have the battery capacity now. I'll put this on the spreadsheet but I'm around 48000k miles, 90% electric, 2018 model, and my capacity was 46.1.
 
One of the things that is most interesting to me is preserving battery capacity for the long run. From my research, the most damaging things to batteries are: 1) excessive heat, 2) draining to 0%, 3) charging to 100%, 4) charging at a high current and 5) discharging at a high current.

When I purchased my Clarity used 3.5 months ago with 12K miles, the battery capacity was 55.06 Ah as measured by my Vgate OBD II scanner. I have no idea how the car was used / charged / stored before I bought it, but I thought that number was rather spectacular. Since then, I have driven roughly 2.5K miles (about 1K electric), and my battery capacity has dropped to 54.55 Ah.

I have kept the car in a garage to avoid heat soaking, the BMS handles the min and max of the battery pack, I only charge on level 1, and I never drive hard in electric mode, yet my capacity has dipped .5 Ah since I bought it. It doesn’t look like the previous owner suffered hardly any degradation! I would love to know what they did to keep it so high. Maybe they never charged it at all and only drove it as a hybrid??

Anyway, I put my information in the group spreadsheet and continue to look for ways to maintain battery capacity...
 
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