Two questions:
1. I guess I ended up importing the sensors twice, because I now have them listed twice in the options, how can I reset that and re-import them again without deleting the app/cache?
2. I bought my car used, so it spent first two years in Southern Texas and now it's in British Columbia, when entering data into this spreadsheet, what should I enter?
Hi everybody! I just got my Clarity and one of the first things I've done was checking the battery capacity. I set up Torque like the Original Posting, but the reading I am getting is 491.5ah. From what I see on the forum, I would expect that to be 49ah assuming it's just the decimal placing that is wrong, but it makes me wonder if there is more to it. Any clues?
Hi Mr Fix-it... I missed the info on Torque Pro and Clarity... I have not been able to find the Clarity in the program :-(This thread has become pretty cluttered. The easiest way to get started is first insure that you have the compatible OBD2 adapter, then just select the Clarity in Torque Pro. We provided Torque Pro with all the necessary PID's and it is no longer necessary to define anything on your own. The scaling should be right, and you should see a number in the 40-something amp-hour range.
@JFon101231 , @JohnT , @SergiHi Mr Fix-it... I missed the info on Torque Pro and Clarity... I have not been able to find the Clarity in the program :-(
was there another thread for the the readouts? My spring readings at 52250 are :View attachment 15998
Local Honda dealer wants to charge 180 to check capacity and admitted they don't know much about the hybrids. I said no thanks.
Good for you... $180 to check capacity is outrageous. It is literally a 5 minute job.
You are showing the correct screen on Car Scanner. Please elaborate on precisely which OBD adapter you are using. My suspicion is that you have a device with limited buffer size and that's why the reading isn't available. With a little more information I am certain we can get a reading for you.
I assume your 11.4 kWh is for a 'full' charge (from zero EV range)? Do you have a history of multiple full charge readings?
As an example, a full charge on my Clarity is typically around 12.5 kWh. This yields an EV range of around 50 miles (in the summer, with my driving particulars).
What is your history with this car? Is it new for you? Range is highly dependent on how / where you drive. Tell us a little more about your driving scenario. 11.4 kWh is not especially bad. You should get a range greater than 27 but you can't draw a conclusion on a single measurement, and your driving scenario is critically important.
You will also find a lot of controversy about the EV range estimate. People refer to it as the Guess-O-Meter (GOM). It predicts the range based on recent drives, and if your current drive is substantially different than your recent history, the GOM will do a poor job. Pay attention to the actual miles you get, an not just the reading on the GOM.
@Jamchow175 ,
It is highly likely that your adapter is not capable of reading the larger messages provided by the Clarity.
More expensive definitely does not mean better...
I would consider it a waste of time, but if you really wanted to be certain about your adapter, you can try the test that is shown in an earlier post in this same thread here - https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...ery-capacity-readout.10531/page-2#post-123944
Do this test, and send a screenshot of the result that you get....
My best suggestion is to purchase the tried and true adapter that we have proven to be good (and most everyone here is using). This post shows specifically what to look for when purchasing one. They are only around $30:
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...in-report-battery-capacity.12220/#post-148549
If / when you get a capacity reading it will be interesting to see if the capacity reflects the actual drop that you seem to be seeing. If your numbers accurately reflect a true change in capacity, then 41 miles dropping to 27 represents a 35% drop from your original capacity. I believe your 'full charge' of 11.4 kWh only suggests maybe a ~20% drop.
One more thought that you can try as a "Hail Mary" is to disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes. This is sort of like a hard reboot and it could clear out some software malfunction affecting performance or the GOM... NOTE - after doing this, you will see a LOT of ominous errors / failures when you start again. They should all clear out after driving a few miles. It will take several drives / recharges for the EV range reading to settle again. This seems unlikely to me, but may be worth a try if you exhaust other possibilities.
I recommend that the capacity reading is the best first step.
Does anyone know if someone has had a battery pack replaced for degradation?