Clunking Vibration type sound

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EVDog said:
Just wondering; are there Konas (or Niros) out there with serious mileage and no noise issues? Will the whole fleet of them eventually fail in this respect?
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Yep, one UK owner has I think 60k plus miles and two owners here have a similar number of kms with no issues, nor have there been any apparent failures here. We don't know exactly what the problem is so no one could predict if all examples will eventually fail. My warranty ends Oct 2021 so it's a concern for me.
There does seem to be some anecdotal evidence that it's more likely to happen in colder climates.
 
KiwiME said:
Yep, one UK owner has I think 60k plus miles and two owners here have a similar number of kms with no issues, nor have there been any apparent failures here. We don't know exactly what the problem is so no one could predict if all examples will eventually fail. My warranty ends Oct 2021 so it's a concern for me.
There does seem to be some anecdotal evidence that it's more likely to happen in colder climates.
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Perhaps admin could rename thread "cool clunking vibration type sound":D
 
electriceddy said:
Sad to hear the issue has carried over into your 2020 model.
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I also finally saw a Dutch 2020 eNiro owner report it recently. So it appears this issue is still not solved even on recently produced cars (all using original 700/710 motors). I'm still trying to find confirmation of a 701 or 711 motor failing. A few people reported having motor replaced twice but didn't know their revision.

Maybe we need a high-mileage owners club poll tracking cars without issues. You can change your vote on polls in this forum so people can update their vote as their car crosses different mileage ranges. It would be encouraging to hear someone cross the warranty limit (100K miles) without the noise issue.
 
Looks like Hyundai Australia are useless about this. Almost 2 weeks that my car's been at the dealer and they've replaced a whole bunch of actuators. Now they're saying they're going to replace a generator (still because of some actuator).

I wish they'd just talk to hyundai canada and realise it's likely a motor fault and not an actuator.

On the plus side, the dealer's been pretty good giving us a longer car for this whole time.
 
Alex2802 said:
Looks like Hyundai Australia are useless about this. Almost 2 weeks that my car's been at the dealer and they've replaced a whole bunch of actuators. Now they're saying they're going to replace a generator (still because of some actuator).

I wish they'd just talk to hyundai canada and realise it's likely a motor fault and not an actuator.

On the plus side, the dealer's been pretty good giving us a longer car for this whole time.
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I can't imagine what they are talking about. I can't think of any actuators in the engine bay, I suppose there are actuators in the HVAC system, door locks etc. There is no generator. There is a DC to DC converter and on board AC to DC charger. I wish they would just use standardized language instead of making up descriptors based on ICE cars.
 
Alex2802 said:
Looks like Hyundai Australia are useless about this. Almost 2 weeks that my car's been at the dealer and they've replaced a whole bunch of actuators. Now they're saying they're going to replace a generator (still because of some actuator).

I wish they'd just talk to hyundai canada and realise it's likely a motor fault and not an actuator.

On the plus side, the dealer's been pretty good giving us a longer car for this whole time.
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Hi Alex, if the NSW guys don't get it right in the end, the Adel guys (Maughan Thiem Hyundai) replaced a friends engine this year for the same issue. It fixed the issue. Perhaps they you could suggest they call them.
 
Finally had my traction motor replaced today, after the failed 180 degree driveshaft rotation procedure several weeks ago. I am happy to report this has finally fixed the problem. Drove home in blissful silence. My invoice had oddly very little useful information. It only listed the part number for the old version motor(36500-OE700) as replacement and 3 units(3 gallons?) of the special blue low conductivity coolant(07100-J2A20). They noted a coolant bleeding procedure and motor resolver relearning after the traction motor replacement.
I was kinda surprised they used the original revision motor, so I had a look when I got home and in fact it has the new 701 revision, according to the serial number it looks like it was manufactured on April 30, 2020 in Chung Ju Korea

SQ4BHJ6.jpg
 
apu said:
Finally had my traction motor replaced today, after the failed 180 degree driveshaft rotation procedure several weeks ago. I am happy to report this has finally fixed the problem. Drove home in blissful silence. My invoice had oddly very little useful information. It only listed the part number for the old version motor(36500-OE700) as replacement and 3 units(3 gallons?) of the special blue low conductivity coolant(07100-J2A20). They noted a coolant bleeding procedure and motor resolver relearning after the traction motor replacement.
I was kinda surprised they used the original revision motor, so I had a look when I got home and in fact it has the new 701 revision, according to the serial number it looks like it was manufactured on April 30, 2020 in Chung Ju Korea

SQ4BHJ6.jpg
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Nice. Welcome to the 701 Club :)
 
Based on apu's motor build date, it looks like there is now ample supply of spare motors. At least 3 months worth of possible inventory.
The e711 motor (equivalent to Kona's e701) that I received on my eNiro last year was only 2 weeks old when dealer finally received it after 6 weeks waiting.
 
wizziwig said:
Based on apu's motor build date, it looks like there is now ample supply of spare motors. At least 3 months worth of possible inventory.
The e711 motor (equivalent to Kona's e701) that I received on my eNiro last year was only 2 weeks old when dealer finally received it after 6 weeks waiting.
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See if I can help move some of that inventory when the weather cools down;)
 
R P said:
They are better now about knowing what to look for. There is also a rumble check they do, which mine had, and I didn't even notice it until it was gone after the replacement.
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Thanks for that. I will staple that info to my "future motor replacement" reference file- now 3 pages long.
 
I was reading the specs of the Mach-E gearbox posted on the front page recently and noticed how high the maximum torque handling specs were: "4,278 Nm of axle torque and input speeds up to 13,800 rpm.". The car is rated for 830 Nm. Anyone know what the equivalent specs are for the Kona/Niro gearbox? All I was able to find was this in the gearbox service manual entry:

kona_gearbox_torque.webp

That seams low and just adequate for the 395 Nm specs of the car. There seems to be no headroom or safety margin at all. Maybe this contributes to the gearbox and motor failures?
 
Well, the Kona motor torque times the gear ratio is 3,152 Nm at the axle, not subtracting for losses ... in the same ballpark as the Mach-E.

EV torque quotes in specifications seem to be non-standardised so far, some quote at the motor shaft, others at the axle. ICE vehicles always quote of course at the engine crankshaft, which is fine because that's what people are used to seeing and comparing. EVs really should use the axle for fair comparisons with each other because the motor performance envelope and reduction gearbox ratios are closely matched to produce the required vehicle performance and cost, and those finer details are not that relevant to the consumer.
 
Jamas said:
Two days ago, I went for a test drive with a service tech at my Hyundai dealer regarding the clicking noise. He heard it and acknowledged it's not right. They said they will call me in a couple days once they figure out what they need to do. Got a call today that they will be replacing the traction motor assembly, and they already have the parts in. Looks like they're not even going to mess around with the reduction gear box or drive shaft rotation. Perhaps this is a sign that Hyundai has honed in on the issue and how to resolve it? I will be dropping the car off Monday. I'll keep you guys informed.
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I had mine replaced a 6k, it fixed it, no more noise for the last 4K


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Well its been 3 days since I got the traction motor replaced, no noise but I couldn't get the car to start this morning. When I pushed start button I just get the message to put my foot on the brake to start. Which of course I did. I initially thought the 12V battery was down again as the car will do weird things when its in a low voltage state. Charged it up with no joy, checked fuses for continuity including the one that powers the brake pedal, cycled the main transport switch in the fuse box, looked over the motor bay, everything seemed fine and connected. I was running out of ideas.
I could hear a relay click when I attempted start and after cycling the start button mostly in frustration for a least 1/2 dozen times it started up. I thought great fixed, turned it off and it would not start again. After another 6-8 on off cycles it started up again and I drove it to my dealer. Basically I was told to come back next week when the EV tech was in. I calmly explain I would come back but my car is stalled in your service driveway. They tried to boost me, I knew that wasn't going to work. Service advisor tried to blame it on low voltage caused by my dash cam. Yeah, nice theory but the dash cam has its own independent power source. I ask if it could be a loose connection related to the recent motor replacement. My service advisor draws a blank and finally admits he knows nothing about EVs. I already knew that but at least make an effort man. Finally they gave me a loaner Accent. What a cluster duck this EV situation is. :(
 
apu said:
Well its been 3 days since I got the traction motor replaced, no noise but I couldn't get the car to start this morning. When I pushed start button I just get the message to put my foot on the brake to start. Which of course I did. I initially thought the 12V battery was down again as the car will do weird things when its in a low voltage state. Charged it up with no joy, checked fuses for continuity including the one that powers the brake pedal, cycled the main transport switch in the fuse box, looked over the motor bay, everything seemed fine and connected. I was running out of ideas.
I could hear a relay click when I attempted start and after cycling the start button mostly in frustration for a least 1/2 dozen times it started up. I thought great fixed, turned it off and it would not start again. After another 6-8 on off cycles it started up again and I drove it to my dealer. Basically I was told to come back next week when the EV tech was in. I calmly explain I would come back but my car is stalled in your service driveway. They tried to boost me, I knew that wasn't going to work. Service advisor tried to blame it on low voltage caused by my dash cam. Yeah, nice theory but the dash cam has its own independent power source. I ask if it could be a loose connection related to the recent motor replacement. My service advisor draws a blank and finally admits he knows nothing about EVs. I already knew that but at least make an effort man. Finally they gave me a loaner Accent. What a cluster duck this EV situation is. :(
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That does't sound like a good time at all! My guess would have been 12V battery low as well or maybe the FOB battery, but some kind of indication would probably be on the screen. I guess you didn't try to measure the voltage - would have been my next guess. Hopefully it is a minor fix and you get your wheels back in short order.
 
KiwiME said:
Well, the Kona motor torque times the gear ratio is 3,152 Nm at the axle, not subtracting for losses ... in the same ballpark as the Mach-E.

EV torque quotes in specifications seem to be non-standardised so far, some quote at the motor shaft, others at the axle. ICE vehicles always quote of course at the engine crankshaft, which is fine because that's what people are used to seeing and comparing. EVs really should use the axle for fair comparisons with each other because the motor performance envelope and reduction gearbox ratios are closely matched to produce the required vehicle performance and cost, and those finer details are not that relevant to the consumer.
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This article claims the Mach-e has a 10:1 reduction gear ratio. That would imply a maximum of 427 Nm at the motor. That article list several torque figures depending on motor configuration so not sure what their torque safety margins are on the gearbox. Taking the larger 300 lb-ft figure, it would be around 400 Nm produced by motor. Some good photos of the gearbox and motor.

It looks like another co-axial design with the shaft passing through the motor like on the Bolt. I prefer this design since it allows the smaller drive unit to be perfectly centered in the car with equal length axles to the wheels to reduce torque steer. It's probably also a more robust design since I don't see anywhere near as many reports of failed gearboxes and motors.
 
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