Electric Rich
Active Member
I'm also now convinced. Local wrecker in Adel reckons he has a few FG Falcon spares, so I'm off on Friday to collect one AUD75.
Spare tire and rim of some sort I had my first flat..
- Thread starter GPM432
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Ferenc Jakab
Active Member
Went to a Ford wrecker today and bought the Falcon FG 17" space saver spare and installed it. Some photos to show. Amazing how many plumbing fittings can be repurposed. Total cost less than $100 with a Holden scissor jack included. The front prop is a piece of 40mm PVC pipe cut to 127mm with a silicon rubber sink plug seal to cushion the tyre. All fits neatly. The center bolt is screwed into a nut rivet in the reinforcement strut at the bottom of the well.
Looks great, an inexpensive measure of extra security on those roads where help is a long ways away
Ferenc Jakab
Active Member
Yes it's the rural distances and lack of phone coverage!
Regnaston
Member
Just a thought to save some money.. couldn't you get a normal 17" spare and also carry a jack stand in the car. If the front tire develops a flat you put the spare on the front, if the rear develops a flat you remove front wheel and put car on jack stand and then put the front wheel on the back and put the spare on the front.
By "normal" I assume a full sized spare on a steel rim which indeed is possible, but with the limited space not feasible.
Not sure if you have jacked up the Kona, but a jack stand creates havoc on the pinch welds, also not the way to go, not to mention where to store securely this additional item.
Fortunately (no help from Hyundai) the posts listed are the best and most cost effective solution using spares and rims that fit from older models.
The best scenario is a flat on the rear which would involve a straight replacement with the donut spare. If the flat is on the front, then the procedure would be to replace a good full sized tire from the rear with the compact spare, then jack the vehicle and install the good rear on the front, to avoid possible control issues particularly while braking.
By "normal" I assume a full sized spare on a steel rim which indeed is possible, but with the limited space not feasible.
Not sure if you have jacked up the Kona, but a jack stand creates havoc on the pinch welds, also not the way to go, not to mention where to store securely this additional item.
Fortunately (no help from Hyundai) the posts listed are the best and most cost effective solution using spares and rims that fit from older models.
The best scenario is a flat on the rear which would involve a straight replacement with the donut spare. If the flat is on the front, then the procedure would be to replace a good full sized tire from the rear with the compact spare, then jack the vehicle and install the good rear on the front, to avoid possible control issues particularly while braking.
I recently had a flat on the front and used my new(?) space-saver on the front left for a day in suburbia. No problems as long as one is sensible. I gave it a squirt while accelerating from stop on a straight street just to see how bad the traction is. It's bad, took no effort for the traction control to kick in. If a front flat occurs on a country road/highway, especially a curvey one, I would do the rear to front swap. But before that I would use a 4WD plug kit that I carry. Much better a ribbon plug than a space saver spare.
As far as I'm concerned the space saver is there for the wife, the suburban driver, to tell the road side service to fit rather than a flat top to wherever.
rgthoma
New Member
My 2020 Kona is in the process of being bought back by HMA. I had purchased a spare tire at a local wrecking yard that is no longer needed. I tried to post an ad in the classified but for some reason I am not allowed to do that. Anyway, if someone wants a spare tire I have one that you can have if you pay the shipping cost. The tire is a 135/90/17 donut-style spare from a Genesis. I do not know the exact year of the Genesis but I did test fit it to my Kona and it worked fine. I live in Northern California near zip code 95376. I'm happy to pass this along to another who can use it.
Very generous offer, there is a classified section in this Inside EVS forum, why not try to post there as well
rgthoma
New Member
For some reason the site says I do not have permission to post in the classified section.Very generous offer, there is a classified section in this Inside EVS forum, why not try to post there as well
The boot floor is very thin gauge but it has a stiffening rib along the centre line. So I pushed out the two drain bungs and used these holes for mounting clamp plates either side of the stiffening web.
I used 6mm galvanised mild steel for the bent bracket (used a 12 ton press) and 75mm dia spacer washers (79mm hole saw) which sit on the area over where the rubber bungs originally went.
I used a hardware shop piece of 4.5mm galvanised steel strip under the car and two 10mm HT bolts to clamp the top and bottom steel brakets together. Rubber gaskets were made from an old tyre inner tube. I had to nibble a bit of the plastic under splash guard to clear the bolt heads.
The top bracket was fitted with a 12mm eye bolt as the tie down point. I used a 16mm hook bolt (out of a turnbuckle) from this eye upwards through the wheel centre and bolted a large diameter aluminium disc above the wheel centre.
I bought a complete Kona recovery jack kit from a wreckers for $40 which fits underneath the wheel, along with foot pump, Hyundai electric pump, some tools, a tyre plug repair kit and a bottle of slime.
There is a 7mm sheet of plywood beneath the wheel with a centre hole for the wheel tie bolt.
With the wheel mounted concave side upwards, my level 2 charger cable bag fits inside. The trickle charger and a 10m extension lead also fit around the outside edges.
Ready for the 1800 km of pot holes between Melbourne and the Sunshine Coast
I used 6mm galvanised mild steel for the bent bracket (used a 12 ton press) and 75mm dia spacer washers (79mm hole saw) which sit on the area over where the rubber bungs originally went.
I used a hardware shop piece of 4.5mm galvanised steel strip under the car and two 10mm HT bolts to clamp the top and bottom steel brakets together. Rubber gaskets were made from an old tyre inner tube. I had to nibble a bit of the plastic under splash guard to clear the bolt heads.
The top bracket was fitted with a 12mm eye bolt as the tie down point. I used a 16mm hook bolt (out of a turnbuckle) from this eye upwards through the wheel centre and bolted a large diameter aluminium disc above the wheel centre.
I bought a complete Kona recovery jack kit from a wreckers for $40 which fits underneath the wheel, along with foot pump, Hyundai electric pump, some tools, a tyre plug repair kit and a bottle of slime.
There is a 7mm sheet of plywood beneath the wheel with a centre hole for the wheel tie bolt.
With the wheel mounted concave side upwards, my level 2 charger cable bag fits inside. The trickle charger and a 10m extension lead also fit around the outside edges.
Ready for the 1800 km of pot holes between Melbourne and the Sunshine Coast
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R P
Well-Known Member
Both my new EVs don't have spares. And they don't have suitable holes to house one, like the old cars. So I am just going to rely on my plug kits. So unless a tire blows up or gets slashed, a plug should get me by. I sure have fixed a lot of tires with all my past cars. Seems like no set of tires of mine ever make it full life span without being plugged. Where do all these nails and screws come from? And how do they work their way straight into a tire, instead of just being run over?
The only change would be 25 MY N series with 19" wheels, regular ultimate still with the 17".
I would think (unless a great deal on a 24) to purchase the 25 MY as it offers V2L and power liftgate for a small $100 difference in price between the 2 years.
GPM432
Active Member
My 2019 spare fits my new 2024 wheel Front and back.. Now the 2024 has the well in the trunk to fit the spare.