Here's a specific post describing how to set the Level 2 charging rate.
2022 Mini SE issue with charging 500 miles / new
- Thread starter Rexsio
- Start date
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Rexsio
Well-Known Member
Sure is only one way through a menu to set a charging current my BMW I 3 was exactly the same I drove for 6 years Set maximum car switch all the time to minimum
Rexsio
Well-Known Member
I drove the same crab for 6 years bmw I 3 exactly the same setting in Se only exterior is different and guts the same and better tires
If Plan Charging/Climate Control -> Settings charging current doesn't give you the SE's full Level 2 charging rate at an L2 EVSE that works for other cars, your car is broken.
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Puppethead
Well-Known Member
The J1772 Connector does not have the pinouts for 3-phase, so regardless of how the electricity is wired to the EVSE there's no chance of it going into the car.
Urbanengineer
Active Member
part of the reason I wish we would switch to J3068 and CCS2 connector. Smaller package size and more communication.
Urbanengineer
Active Member
OP, something is wrong with your onboard AC charger. I don’t have a diagram but as far as I read you charge at half rate and this is the only thing that regulates charging capability outside of software.
if you are crazy break it open, otherwise take the car back to the dealer and make them figure it out.
if you are crazy break it open, otherwise take the car back to the dealer and make them figure it out.
Urbanengineer
Active Member
What is your Level 1 charge rate? 0.9 kW ish?
I’m thinking one half of your onboard charger is broken internally, fuse, cable, solder issue, etc. I am asking someone who works for BMWAG who worked in development in some EV’s. Let’s see if we can figure it out.
Urbanengineer
Active Member
This sounds a lot like your issue: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/charging-woes.169631/
This is what an onboard AC charger looks like:
This is what an onboard AC charger looks like:
Teddydogno1
Active Member
OP...if your dealer can't figure it out, they should be working with MINI/BMW to get it figured out.
Rob
Rob
Rexsio
Well-Known Member
Last night a car charged for now reason correctly 50-100% 2 1/2 hr and I’m assuming in rate 27amp bc a reading on my Lectron charger with lcd display shows 13.5 amp .on reduced setting My Clipper Creek charger have no display.but start charging on maximum setting.If this continues I will be happy bc 4 hr full charge it is what car is capable to do!Maybe all a BUGS run. Away from a car bc I screamed so loud why this happened to me.Sorry for my writing but I’m fricken European without any English school or classes.
Outagas
Member
Oh man - this sounds like exactly my problem. 2021 SE - plug in to my home charger (Wallbox) and the car gives a “Charging with Reduced Power” message and a 2x as long estimate to charge.
Then if I stop and start the Wallbox or unplug and plug in it restarts at max power.
The car has been back to Mini several times and they swear there is nothing wrong. The poor folks at Wallbox did a ton of diagnosing themselves the finally sent me a new unit. It worked great. For a year. Then the issue returned. I bought a completely new unit (Emporia) and the issue was exactly the same. It’s the damn car and no one can figure it out. I was going to ask Mini to flash whatever passes for the ECU to see if that helps but it seems like you tried this?
Although I wouldn’t wish this frustrating problem on anyone, if somebody else is experiencing this, at least I know I’m not crazy…
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Rexsio
Well-Known Member
You not crazy I’m not crazy too car was check twice by dealer nothing wrong plug - unplug give max. Power of charging 50% a time car is charging in max. At home .32 amps at creeper creek wall L2 charger .I send charger to manufacturer/ check nothing wrong with it . I’m not charging a lot of public L2 chargers bc I’m on solar at home /free / but to just to check what is going on ?. Car never switch to lower charging on public charger . Do the same go to Public charger and you going have more questions.I just give up .Car overall is perfect 2022/10000miles
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Rexsio
Well-Known Member
I post this at February 2022 when car was 2 month old
Outagas
Member
Yes - same issue. Level 2 and 3 public chargers work ok. So does the Mini dealer’s charger. That’s why they say it’s not the car. Level 3 is DC so that’s not a surprise but I thought ANY Level 2 would give this same problem. Not so at the one I tried. Going to find some others.
Stopping and starting the charge at home is my only work around. It’s a pain in the butt but I am more concerned about the message that the car is trying to prevent battery damage and so has reduced the charge rate. But if a reset puts it back to max charging then what about the concern about the battery just a minute ago?
I’d love to replace the onboard charger but Mini would want me to buy that up front. If it fixed it then maybe refund me.
Stopping and starting the charge at home is my only work around. It’s a pain in the butt but I am more concerned about the message that the car is trying to prevent battery damage and so has reduced the charge rate. But if a reset puts it back to max charging then what about the concern about the battery just a minute ago?
I’d love to replace the onboard charger but Mini would want me to buy that up front. If it fixed it then maybe refund me.
Rexsio
Well-Known Member
Before you go that route try to plug your SE to L2 installed in somebody’s house ,unfortunately I don’t have anybody in my neighborhood to try it bc after all those approaches I’m leaning to electrical panel,wiring ,hard wire ,plug in to NEMA 14-50 in my case I try to come up with any solution.Keep posting what happens in your situations .Reduced charging is any way better for health of HV battery than max charge on L 2 or DC specifically.
There are cases when you turn on some high current equipment that the draw could be more at that moment than when it's operating normally. High powered audio amps are like this. There is a big pull when you plug in/turn on, and it could be that it's being choked at that point, then when you unplug and plug back it, circuits could be primed and able to deliver. The car is detecting a low rate and reducing the draw. Some audio equipment needs to be kept plugged in, and if unplugged takes a while for the sound to return to normal. I'm not an electrician, but I think this has to do with priming caps as they draw, store, and deliver and then are able to deliver at a sustained rate. It's why some equipment is equipped with slow blow fuses. It can go over, but not for very long, so it doesn't blow the fuse. Again, just my opinion, and as I said, I'm not an electrician but I have seen this behavior in my audio gear when where is a limiter of some sort, such as surge protectors on the circuit.
Rexsio
Well-Known Member
Thank you for that suggestion which solve my problem Rexio