2019 Kona EV Motor Noise Issue

Wildeyed said:
Reduction gear lubrication replacement is scheduled for 120,000km in my manual!
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From what I understand, this was updated direction from Hyundai. It was just supposed to be an inspection but it was dirty so it needed to be replaced. When I check the Hyundai website it says 30 month check as well for my 2019.
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dan17 said:
From what I understand, this was updated direction from Hyundai. It was just supposed to be an inspection but it was dirty so it needed to be replaced. When I check the Hyundai website it says 30 month check as well for my 2019.
d1dca35495ae26611b5ba0d6b58e5c56.webp


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That's weird. I literally am looking at the maintenance schedule on the Hyundai website for a 2019 Kona EV and it not only doesn't mention the reduction gear until 120,000km it doesn't even HAVE the 30 month interval that yours is showing!! What the what??
Edit* wait, it does say inspect at 60k.

So it was 120k originally and now it's 30 months? And at 30 months I have only 35k kilometres but I might need a fluid replacement? That's a pretty big revision. And one that's potentially 4x more expensive. What did they charge you? I'd heard it's about $150.
 
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I understand "inspect" to mean check the level. Perhaps a diligent technician took a sample as well?
 
Yes but it seems that these "inspections" are leading to the discovery of goop and goop is leading to (potential) fluid changes and at a rate 2, 3 or 4 times more frequently than originally suggested.
 
I suspect that only first early reduction fluid change is recommended due to break in period generating more metallic debris.
And all subsequent changes are most likely good to be done on normal schedule.
 
There was always a fine print in Europe if car is driven in severe conditions that maintenance intervals for some of the items can be halved.
 
My copy of the Canadian manual says that the maintenance cycle defaults to "severe conditions" so any tightening of service intervals would be even more severe. It's feeling like a bait and switch situation.
 
Wildeyed said:
Yes but it seems that these "inspections" are leading to the discovery of goop and goop is leading to (potential) fluid changes and at a rate 2, 3 or 4 times more frequently than originally suggested.
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"Goop" is not really what you'd find with a small sample, noting how it appears clear but darkish while draining in the post #24 video. But when placed in a clear bottle the discolouration is obvious. Every Kona's gearbox oil will look at least as bad as this after 20,000 km. This one shown at 40,000 km is horrific, frame grab below.

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I'm all for scientific evidence-based conclusions rather than speculation, but ignoring that for a moment in the interest of expediency, I'm starting to think that this is the cause of the gearbox noise issues - conveniently the subject of this thread and multiple others. From a statistical perspective I'd have to image the chances of having two major design screw-ups so close together would be rare, so it may be just this one issue alone, the omission of a magnet.
I can see how added bearing drag due to ingesting break-in wear particles could result in outer race spin and subsequent wear of it's aluminium housing resulting in loading the motor splines, making a clunking noise and wearing them. It's all entirely plausible. I've suggested to those in our local FB group (in NZ) that their oil should be changed at the first service at their own expense.

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KiwiME said:
"Goop" is not really what you'd find with a small sample, noting how it appears clear but darkish while draining in the post #24 video. But when placed in a clear bottle the discolouration is obvious. Every Kona's gearbox oil will look at least as bad as this after 20,000 km. This one shown at 40,000 km is horrific, frame grab below.

View attachment 14145

I'm all for scientific evidence-based conclusions rather than speculation, but ignoring that for a moment in the interest of expediency, I'm starting to think that this is the cause of the gearbox noise issues - conveniently the subject of this thread and multiple others. From a statistical perspective I'd have to image the chances of having two major design screw-ups so close together would be rare, so it may be just this one issue alone, the omission of a magnet.
I can see how added bearing drag due to ingesting break-in wear particles could result in outer race spin and subsequent wear of it's aluminium housing resulting in loading the motor splines, making a clunking noise and wearing them. It's all entirely plausible. I've suggested to those in our local FB group (in NZ) that their oil should be changed at the first service at their own expense.

View attachment 14146
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Hyundai would have to acknowledge a problem for that to happen. Easier to simply amend the service interval and transfer responsibility to the owner.
 
Yes, the irony was not lost on me …

Oh, I thought I’d mention that a local Ioniq owner has had their gearbox fail at 75,000 km. I think it’s the same design we have. Out of warranty, Hyundai agreed to supply the parts, customer paid for labour.
Of course no one knows if the oil was dirty because no one thinks to check.
 
KiwiME said:
I wonder if they used a 75W85 because it was the thinnest GL-4 they had readily available? The spec for the Kona is 70W, which has a viscosity similar to ATF.

In the owner's manual it's stated as "70W, API GL-4, TCGO-9(MS517-14)." The latter "MS" spec is 75W according to Google. Redline has a MT-LV 70W/75W which seems ideal for DIY. Further searching revealed that Redline recommend it as well.

My Kona is out of all warranties now except the 10-y battery part, so it's in my best interest to check the cleanliness myself.

Ah, it seems the dealers might stock this for ICE manuals and/or DSG:

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Thanks for the great research.

Did you use the Hyundai fluids or the Redline product?

If you used the Redline product, could you provide a link to same?

Amazon (Canada) is not giving me the 70w GL - 4 options.

Cheers.
 
Use the Redline since you can get it. I think Walmart gave me a ship-it-here price. More realistically:

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KiwiME said:
Use the Redline since you can get it. It's $47 a quart here and has to be shipped from Auckland so I'm using an Australian 70W-75W GL-4 at about $39 /L.

Holy cr**, it's even more expensive in Canada, $53! I'd shop around perhaps. It needs a bit over 1 L so you'll need 2 bottles. The dealer is the other option.

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https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Redlin...r-2008-2013-1-Series-E82-128i/PRD0TJ05ES3P71R
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Thanks for the tip.

I have a short trip into Michigan (assuming no covid issues) next weekend and may be able to source the Redline over the counter at “Advance Auto”.

I am waiting for a call back from my local dealership parts department regarding the cost of the Hyundai 70w GL-4 as well as the magnetic drain plug 00810 17121.
 
KiwiME said:
I'll be interested to hear if they can provide that.
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The fluid is available over the counter, but at $54 (plus HST) a litre, I’ll wait and see what my trip to MI next weekend gives me.

The magnetic plug: $CAD 4.56 (plus HST). Matching gasket: $CAD 0.56 (plus HST).

For $5.79 (all in), I went ahead and ordered them ;)

Should arrive at the local dealer by Friday morning.
 
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