12v battery replacement

electriceddy said:
26R slightly higher dimensions than 99R ~ 1", and 1/2 " longer. The cables attaching obviously have enough slack.
That would be my first choice as a replacement...when my turn arrives, hopefully later than sooner:rolleyes:
99R:
Maximum Overall Dimensions (L x W x H): 8-1/4" L x 6-7/8" W x 6-7/8" H (210 x 175 x 175 mm)
26R:
Maximum Overall Dimensions (L x W x H): 8-3/4" x 6-3/4" x 8" (222 x 171 x 203 mm)
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Ya if memory serves the NAPA didn’t have the direct replacement so we tried a couple types to see what would fit best and the 26R ended up being fine. Even the positive/negative dust covers fit and clip in fine.


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I was looking at (https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html ) when I was originally looking at the group sizes and it shows the length and width of the 26R (208 x 173 x 197 mm) to be within 2mm of the length and width of the 99R (210 x 175 x 175 mm). Only real difference in size is the height (197 vs. 175).

Looking at the specific size of the Die Hard and the Magnacharge 26R mentioned in this thread ...... both of their websites show them to be 8.19" x 6.81" x 7.75". Pretty much identical length and width to the OEM 99R.

I also will be putting in a 26R battery when mine is ready to go.
 
java said:
I was looking at (https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html ) when I was originally looking at the group sizes and it shows the length and width of the 26R (208 x 173 x 197 mm) to be within 2mm of the length and width of the 99R (210 x 175 x 175 mm). Only real difference in size is the height (197 vs. 175).

Looking at the specific size of the Die Hard and the Magnacharge 26R mentioned in this thread ...... both of their websites show them to be 8.19" x 6.81" x 7.75". Pretty much identical length and width to the OEM 99R.

I also will be putting in a 26R battery when mine is ready to go.
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I have been involved with cars all my life classics to new, and I have never seen a battery only last 3 years. I even Have had recondition ones that last over 5 years. That's my comment. So I had to pay close to $300 for a battery and booster but I guess I got it free because of the $1100.00 I got from Hyundai for all the main battery BS.
 
GPM432 said:
I have been involved with cars all my life classics to new, and I have never seen a battery only last 3 years. I even Have had recondition ones that last over 5 years. That's my comment. So I had to pay close to $300 for a battery and booster but I guess I got it free because of the $1100.00 I got from Hyundai for all the main battery BS.
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I suggest Costco. Here in Canada if you buy one of their Kirkland signature batteries, they will refund you the full future cost of the battery, core charge and taxes if the battery fails under 4 years and prorate to as little as 25% value up to 100 months or over 8 years. The sweet thing is you don't have to keep the receipt or proof of purchase, they keep track of the records and you don't have to prove its dead, they take your word for it.

I'm on my third Costco battery fleet replacement this year. Just yesterday, my wife had to call out CAA to boost the battery in her Mini Cooper. When I got it home I charged it fully up. I then then load tested and checked the charging system with my Autel tool. It came back with a 30% SOH, so battery absolutely needed replacement. The date code put it at 4.5 years old, which is pretty decent. Took it to Costco and wasn't sure if the fact that I bought it in another province almost 5 year ago would matter, apparently not. Got back 50%of current battery price, taxes and core which equaled $78 for the purchase of new battery. Pro tip, when buying a Costco battery dig in the rack for one with the freshest date code as your future warranty payback will be based on that and not the actual buy date.
 
apu said:
I suggest Costco. Here in Canada if you buy one of their Kirkland signature batteries, they will refund you the full future cost of the battery, core charge and taxes if the battery fails under 4 years and prorate to as little as 25% value up to 100 months or over 8 years. The sweet thing is you don't have to keep the receipt or proof of purchase, they keep track of the records and you don't have to prove its dead, they take your word for it.

I'm on my third Costco battery fleet replacement this year. Just yesterday, my wife had to call out CAA to boost the battery in her Mini Cooper. When I got it home I charged it fully up. I then then load tested and checked the charging system with my Autel tool. It came back with a 30% SOH, so battery absolutely needed replacement. The date code put it at 4.5 years old, which is pretty decent. Took it to Costco and wasn't sure if the fact that I bought it in another province almost 5 year ago would matter, apparently not. Got back 50%of current battery price, taxes and core which equaled $78 for the purchase of new battery. Pro tip, when buying a Costco battery dig in the rack for one with the freshest date code as your future warranty payback will be based on that and not the actual buy date.
Click to expand...

If I was a member of Costco I would of bought it there. One thing I forgot to mention is I never had a warning that my battery was getting low If I had been warned I might not of turned my car off.
 
Here are a few links to the OEM size 12v battery for the Kona Ev (group size 99R aka T4). For some reason none of the websites indicate this is the correct battery when you do a search by car and year, etc.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT8499R
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/pro-series-group-size-99r-t4-lb1-battery-450-cca-0107990p.html
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NAB99R5
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-extreme-battery-group-size-99r-t4/ssb7/99ext
https://www.magnacharge.com/part/Magnacharge/Vehicle+Battery/99R-560/
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ttery-t4-dlg-group-size-99-470-cca/490538_0_0

The 99R appears more expensive than both the 26R and the 121R that are both slightly taller..... but also appear to fit. I believe apu had a 121R replacement battery in his Kona. There is a great YouTube video that shows a Kirkland 121R battery installed in a Kona Ev and explains what do do to get it installed. Search "Hyundai Kona EV - 12v battery replacement ".
 
java said:
video that shows a Kirkland 121R battery installed in a Kona Ev
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Yes much more cost effective than the other links you included thanks for that info. The actual video is here:

Spec sheet here
Specifications:
  • Dimensions (Length x Width x Height) : 20.8 centimeter x 17.7 centimeter x 21.5 centimeter (8.19inch x 6.97 inch x 8.46 inch) - (reason the installer had to loosen the negative lead to the car chassis to install)
  • Weight : 13.85 Kilogram (30.53 Pounds) - (5 pounds heavier than 99R)
 
Last edited:
electriceddy said:
Yes much more cost effective than the other links you included thanks for that info. The actual video is here:

Spec sheet here
Specifications:
  • Dimensions (Length x Width x Height) : 20.8 centimeter x 17.7 centimeter x 21.5 centimeter (8.19inch x 6.97 inch x 8.46 inch) - (reason the installer had to loosen the negative lead to the car chassis to install)
  • Weight : 13.85 Kilogram (30.53 Pounds) - (5 pounds heavier than 99R)
Click to expand...


So not convince my original battery was dead I went and got a test on it and the health of it was soc 98% voltage 12.88 capacity is 410 was 315 cca. So now since I got my battery booster I'm going to put the original batter back in the car and see how it going to react. I got a new battery because I drive daily and need my car bad. So I may have shelled out that cost. But I will wait and see. Now I couldn't have a load test dne I was told it had to be in the car . I don't know if that is true..
 
GPM432 said:
So not convince my original battery was dead I went and got a test on it and the health of it was soc 98% voltage 12.88 capacity is 410 was 315 cca. So now since I got my battery booster I'm going to put the original batter back in the car and see how it going to react. I got a new battery because I drive daily and need my car bad. So I may have shelled out that cost. But I will wait and see. Now I couldn't have a load test dne I was told it had to be in the car . I don't know if that is true..
Click to expand...

I don’t know nothin’ about batteries, but twice in my life I’ve had ones that failed regularly but checked out fine on load tests at dealers. Both times a new battery fixed all issues. So I take load tests with a grain of salt - actually, I just ignore them. In the big picture new batteries are cheap and I hate the hassle of dealing with unreliable ones. YMMV
 
Das KONA said:
I don’t know nothin’ about batteries, but twice in my life I’ve had ones that failed regularly but checked out fine on load tests at dealers. Both times a new battery fixed all issues. So I take load tests with a grain of salt - actually, I just ignore them. In the big picture new batteries are cheap and I hate the hassle of dealing with unreliable ones. YMMV
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So I'm not entirely convince that my first 12v battery is no good. I think the problem is it doesn't get charged enough. I'm going to try this. I put it in my classic 64 falcon . It will get a constant charge and then I will see what happens. I will take my battery booster I got just in case it dies. I used the car today and it worked just fine I will keep everyone posted on the results...P_20210521_134912_p (Medium).webp P_20210521_134837_p (Medium).webp
 
Perhaps measure it since cars of that vintage would normally charge continuously at 13.8 V while running to suit non-calcium type batteries. The Kona charges at 14.7 V but not continuously, and as best as I'm aware that's what other modern cars do.
 
KiwiME said:
Perhaps measure it since cars of that vintage would normally charge continuously at 13.8 V while running to suit non-calcium type batteries. The Kona charges at 14.7 V but not continuously, and as best as I'm aware that's what other modern cars do.
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Thanks for that info... while running it's charging at around 14 volts I used the car all day and it starts etc. and hasn't dropped below 12.5 volts . All so the Hyundai has a lower cranking rating. So will I do damage to the battery by continuing charging it in the Falcon.
This I feel is the problem to begin with not enough charging to keep the plates clean just a enough to keep it a 12 volts. That lack of charging gives it a short life.
 
Frankly, 12.5 is not quite fully charged, 12.7 to 12.8 is what you’re looking for on an ICE. But mine won’t achieve that either and so I use a 5w solar panel to keep it topped off.

On the Kona I’m still seeing 12.9 to 13.0 (after nearly 4 years) after charging but I suspect that’s the result of “surface charge” as there’s very little drain when you don’t have Bluelink.

Do you have a BM2 logger? It’s an indispensable tool for this sort of thing.
 
KiwiME said:
Frankly, 12.5 is not quite fully charged, 12.7 to 12.8 is what you’re looking for on an ICE. But mine won’t achieve that either and so I use a 5w solar panel to keep it topped off.

On the Kona I’m still seeing 12.9 to 13.0 (after nearly 4 years) after charging but I suspect that’s the result of “surface charge” as there’s very little drain when you don’t have Bluelink.

Do you have a BM2 logger? It’s an indispensable tool for this sort of thing.
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No logger. I'm basing all of this on the fact that all my car batteries in the past have lasted at 5 to 10 years. So for my Hyundai battery to give out after just 3 years says to me it wasn't getting a sufficient charge. Other people on here have had the same problem. If everything works as is then the real test will be when fall and winter comes and I use my Falcon. My whole scenario is not scientific just my gut feeling.
 
The problem is, that Kona EV continually cycles the 12V battery. Battery goes through several small discharge-recharge cycles per day even when car is not driven. And if it is a BlueLink equipped, it goes through even more cycles.
So even when battery is sufficiently charged it goes through several fold more cycles than a 12V battery in a regular car. And therefore its capacity diminishes faster.
Starter battery they put into Kona is not meant for large number of charge-recharge cycles. On the long run they should transition to lithium chemistry based battery which allows several thousand full and up to several tens of thousands partial discharge-recharge cycles.
 
Ginginova said:
The problem is, that Kona EV continually cycles the 12V battery. Battery goes through several small discharge-recharge cycles per day even when car is not driven. And if it is a BlueLink equipped, it goes through even more cycles.
So even when battery is sufficiently charged it goes through several fold more cycles than a 12V battery in a regular car. And therefore its capacity diminishes faster.
Starter battery they put into Kona is not meant for large number of charge-recharge cycles. On the long run they should transition to lithium chemistry based battery which allows several thousand full and up to several tens of thousands partial discharge-recharge cycles.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that So is that true for a non stock Hyundai battery I have a regular battery in it now after market . Will it have the same effect. Thanks for that info.
 
In recent years I have had batteries fail at 2.5-3 years. My 1st Prius 12v battery lasted 12 months but that one I did accidentally drain to zero and lead acid don't like that. The little Prius battery was about 250 CCA so I hold my tongue when Kona owners complain about 450CCA. I once started the Prius with 2 six volt torch batteries in parallel.
As an aside, I remember as a kid walking past the Holden dealer workshop (late 1950s) and seeing a whole lot of batteries all connected, being charged at the same time and merrily boiling away.
 
java said:
Here are a few links to the OEM size 12v battery for the Kona Ev (group size 99R aka T4). For some reason none of the websites indicate this is the correct battery when you do a search by car and year, etc.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT8499R
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/pro-series-group-size-99r-t4-lb1-battery-450-cca-0107990p.html
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NAB99R5
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-extreme-battery-group-size-99r-t4/ssb7/99ext
https://www.magnacharge.com/part/Magnacharge/Vehicle+Battery/99R-560/
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ttery-t4-dlg-group-size-99-470-cca/490538_0_0
Click to expand...

Thanks, Java, for posting this OEM list. My 12v has been wonky for the last year since getting my traction battery replaced in my 2019 ultimate. That's a whole other story, but I suspect it was actually the November 2021 nav update because the spring 2022 update seemed to fix the issue. I do have a portable jumper in the center console but hadn't had to use it for about 8 months until twice this week. Figured I wouldn't wait for full failure to replace it. When I went to my local NAPA store, the US model listed above has been superseded by another one:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT75140R

Only a 24 month warranty rather than 36 like the predecessor, but I installed it tonight without issues. Same exact size and the negative cover snaps right in to place as one would expect from OEM.
 
2019 Kona Ultimate here - Replaced the stock 12v battery back in June 2022 with a 96R AGM from Costco (currently out of stock) which was $250CAD shipped and has the same reserve capacity as stock (80 minutes). Had to file down the plastic tabs on either side of the plastic battery holder (Youtube video helped in this regard) and the battery posts were a touch small but a little copper wire let the post clamps tighten up solid.

Owned a Leaf before the Kona and put a Yellowtop AGM in it with great success as it is still going strong after six years and has no sulfation around the battery posts.

After the great experience with the Yellowtop AGM in the Leaf, I am sticking with AGM batteries for the meantime. As a deep cycle they are great for the constant loads versus the ICE's starter batteries built for high load but short duration currents.

I monitored the battery voltage for a couple months after the new 12v AGM went in and the Kona 12V BMS keeps it at roughly %80 charge and then bumps it up to %100 about once a month when charging the traction battery. The 14.7v charge voltage hasn't seemed to negatively affect the battery so far.

I also have a 12v Lithium starter pack in the glove compartment that saved me a few times when the stock 12V was dying. Also useful for those times ICE cars need a boast.
 
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