Torque Pro on the Kona - overview and setup for interested owners

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I have Kona 2020 Ultimate.
I need help to extract PIDs for my kona from file on android OBd_PIDs-for- HKMC-master .zip
So far I can't achieve that.
When I open Torque pro I do not have list of PIDs !!!
Please help me me I will gladly appreciated .
I do use OBD Veepeak P11.
Thank You
janusz Grabon

That's not going to work. You have to open the .csv files as "raw", then copy and paste into your own .csv which is then loaded onto Torque. If the info in this thread is not enough, see the following:
.
 
Since I'm not actually using TP at the moment, I don't feel sure about
trying to generate data in the exact form it wants. Every different system
is going to have minor differences -- the order of items, extra fields,
whether the bytes and math/equation is case-sensitive or not ... it's clear
that the OBDlink / scantool.net people have leeched a lot of ideas from
Torque and other interested communities, but they put their own twist on it.
They can read .csv files, for example, but not save them out ... they're
in a different order than Torque csvs. Parsing fields in the multi-packet
answers is similar; it feels like that's a de facto "industry standard"
since the early ELM327 days.

I'd be happier talking about parameters in generic terms, i.e. which ID
you send with, the mode and PID [whose total length varies], and where
in the answer the bytes of interest are. I've had to adapt all of tne Jeju
stuff from Torque format to the other format ... not hard if you understand
what the fields are. And NONE of this gets anywhere close to the passive
listening on an active bus that my old Scangauge does in the Prius -- if
we could do that, it would be *much* faster. But in the Kona we don't
get a live bus to listen to anyway, so everything here has to be query-based.

Smarter people than I have probably already tapped the power-control bus,
where all the interesting stuff happens, and are likely reverse-engineering
the crap out of what's flying by. Probably with an eye toward creatively
modifying some of it. The real asskicker here is that Hyundai and the rest
offer NO help in understanding it. Because "right to repair" hasn't grown
big enough teeth yet.

_H*
 
KiwiME said:
It would be better to have unique threads for the ongoing diagnostic efforts, such as investigating the 12V battery issues. I'm interested in this effort despite having no issues myself, because it's a challenge and I have the time to work on it, although I think Hobbit is taking the lead here!

Ideally this thread will continue with helping owners get comfortable with TP itself, since it's not the most user-friendly app. Other apps and diag products should have their own threads. Soon I'd like to get into CEC and CED PIDs if people are interested. This is how I beleive the Kona determines SoC.
Domenick has moved the 12V battery discussion to its own thread: Tracking the 12v Battery with OBD2.
 
Here's a rundown on my take on CEC and CED. These are effectively odometers for energy going into and out of the traction battery as a whole, all 98 series packs of three cells in parallel. Passing current is measured precisely inside the battery using shunts. Current times the voltage, integrated over time, is energy and CEC and CED are incremented separately depending on the direction of the current. The usefulness of these numbers is first due to the fact that they are separately tabulated, second because they are cumulative over the life of the battery.
Over time, the values graphed would look like two diverging lines starting at zero when the registers were initialized at the factory. The first graph below is a mockup with straight lines to help us understand the theory; the lines are actually going to be wiggly in detail. Also recognise that when these registers were zeroed the battery would have some initial non-zero charge, let's call it SoCo.
The first outcome to note from this is that whenever the current SoC is the same as the initial SoCo, the battery's cumulative overall efficiency is simply the ratio of the current values of CED over CEC. (If the current SoC is not the same as the factory SoC, the CEC is higher or lower by that difference).

The important takeaway at this stage is that we have four numbers on hand so far. CEC and CED, the initial SoCo, plus the average battery efficiency to-date calculated from those first three values.

CEC and CED abs.webp

The actual logged values on the next graph below have been offset by a fixed number for each curve to allow a detailed view of the changes while alternately driving and charging over a period of about an hour. You can see that while driving there is more discharging going on to move the car than there is charging due to regen. When charging there is no movement of the CED value because the car is not moving. Note, while charging, power used to keep the systems running is drawn from the charger before it enters the battery. You can see clearly where the charge rate changes due to charging tiers, battery heater heater activity and/or other uses of incoming power while waiting.
You'll note that over a trip, from the change in these values you could calculate how much regen energy is recovered v.s. how much energy is spent.

CEC and CED, both driving and charging.webp

Now onto the last item. The main purpose of these registers as best as I can determine is to calculate a stable current SoC, not affected by pack voltage that may vary under load. Apparently this technique is called "coulomb counting" and there are numerous studies on the subject if you care to google it.

As I mentioned above, when the current SoC is the same as SoCo, the cumulative battery efficiency is just CED over CEC. But, since battery efficiency could be assumed stable over the few last charge cycles, you can assume an efficiency based on past data and work back to get the current SoC even if it's not the same as the starting SoCo. For that you also need to know the battery capacity because both SoC values are a percent of that, resulting in kWh. CEC and CED are also expressed in kWh.

Battery losses occur for several reasons during charging and discharging. The SoC represents the stored energy in the middle of that process. If you add energy during charging you lose a tiny bit going in, the result increasing SoC representing slightly less than what you put in. However, you don't yet know what you lose discharging because you haven't done that yet and therefore the SoC cannot reflect that further loss.

For simplicity I've assumed that those losses are equally spread between charging and discharging. On my Kona I've worked that out to be 96% total, where the charging and discharging efficiencies will be each the square root of that total value.

The following formula and graph are a simplistic use of these numbers to determine current SoC. I say 'simplistic' because I'm sure the technology is much more complicated mathematically, but this gets close. So, CEC and CED are each modified by the square root of the total efficiency and the resulting difference is offset by the factory SoCo to get the current SoC. The constants assumed are noted below, SoCo, total battery capacity and overall efficiency.

Over the same driving/charging data as the graph above you can see that my estimated charge in green (SoC EST) emulates the displayed charge in red (SoC DIS) very well.
Please ignore the blue SoC (BMS) on the graph, that's outside the scope of what I'm covering in this post.

SoC DIC EST graph for multiple drive and charge events.webp
 
Well, let's get started from the beginning. Ignore this if you're already running TP with the correct configuration for the Kona. Some of you may know these steps far better than myself so feel free to correct me if I've made a mistake.

A) Installing the PID files for the Kona
After installing the app on your Android device, go to the Github site below and download the two .csv (comma separated variables) files 003 and 004. These contain lists of sensor instructions called "PIDs". I actually joined them together first in Excel but that's unnecessary.

https://github.com/JejuSoul/OBD-PIDs-for-HKMC-EVs/tree/master/Hyundai Kona EV & Kia Niro EV/extendedpids

Use Samsung's My Files app or similar to move the PIDs into the relevant folder, see image. You will need to enable 'show hidden files' in the file manager's settings. Ignore that the file names 003... and 004... are different than mine.

View attachment 6238

There are more detailed but slightly outdated instructions here if needed: https://jejusoul.github.io/OBD-PIDs-for-HKMC-EVs/

B) Connecting the Android device to the Bluetooth OBD2 dongle
This is done in Android settings rather than TP. Plug the dongle in, switch on the car and pair the device to your Android device. Normally there is a code, typically 1234.
As a note, I've found that if the same Android device is also paired to the car for Bluetooth audio and/or Android Auto, TP will confuse the two Bluetooth devices and won't connect until the incorrect one is deleted. There may be workarounds, post if you know what to do.

C) Configuring TP

In TP, tap the 'gear' at the lower left main menu to enter the configuration. Open Settings, tap OBD2 Adapter Settings, select the OBD2 dongle.
Back up to "Settings" again:
a) Select "Manage extra PIDs/Sensors"
b) tap the three dots at the upper right, select "Add predefined set", select the file names of the PID lists to add both, 003... and 004...

D) Building your dashboard

Note the Realtime data button in the main TP menu. Use this to build dashboards even if the dongle is not active or within range. My phone is a bit slow and while TP is 'searching for a Bluetooth device', it's not very responsive to menu selections. If you find the button unresponsive, keep trying, it will eventually work.

Dashboard gauges are added one at a time to the current dashboard. Noting the row of tiny dots near the home button, you can have numerous dashboards but only the current one's gauges are actively polled (as best as I understand). Sweep the display to view each dashboard. At most, you might want to have one for driving, one for AC charging, another for DC.

Long-tap any blank dashboard to add a gauge. I prefer the 'digital' display and 'small' size, but it's your choice. Select the relevant sensor to monitor. In some cases there are more decimal places available than the PID is set to display by default. You can adjust those specifically for any gauge by long-tapping, display configuration, number of decimal places, uncheck 'use default' and enter a number.

View attachment 6239

Primarily for the applications of charging and waypoint-only data collection while driving, I would suggest adding:
000_Battery Heater 1 Temperature
000_Battery Max Temperature
000_Battery Min Temperature
000_Battery Power (misleadingly named Energy Draw on the gauge) (change to 1, 2 or 3 decimal places)
000_Cumulative Energy Charged (change to 1 decimal place)
000_Cumulative Energy Discharged (change to 1 decimal place)
000_State of Charge BMS
000_State of Charge Display
000_State of Health

E) First uses of TP in the car
I don't think there is any issue plugging and unplugging the dongle at any time, however TP seems to only connect for me when the Kona is 'on' even though continues to work after it's switched 'off'.
TP should find the dongle within a few seconds and stop flashing. If it doesn't, you might find there is more than one Bluetooth device in the Android settings list. I've had to delete the unwanted device to convince TP to find the OBD2 dongle.

The best initial uses during trips are to collect SoC (both), CEC and CED numbers at waypoints, combined with the odometer and geographic location (as a reference). Write the six items down or take a photo of the values. Note CEC and CED must have the one decimal place to be useful, I'll explain why later.

For charging you can initally monitor 'Energy Draw' (actually DC discharge power) until we can cover charging profiles.
Just hit 'like'' when you're ready to continue...or comment as needed.
When I go to github, I can find the files but I can't find the download button?? How do I download from there?
 
All my cells except for #31 have 3.88 volt and 31 has 3.86 volt. Is that a problem?
Give it a full charge, they should all equalize, plus it will give you an opportunity to look at your top end buffer size. BMS should report 95-96% when your display reports 100%.
 
Give it a full charge, they should all equalize, plus it will give you an opportunity to look at your top end buffer size. BMS should report 95-96% when your display reports 100%.
Thx.. will try that.
I will charge to 100% on Thursday night as I'm leaving on a small road trip on Friday.. 210 miles to the closest level 3 charger at my destination. I could take a 15 mile longer route that has several Level 3 along the route, but I prefer the shortest route.
Right now, SOC (display is 74.5 and SOC/BMS shows 72.5).
Based on my calculation, the total buffer on the Kona should be 4.62% when new. So, 95.38% when the car is new..
Battery size is 67.1 kwh, available to owner, 64kw..
 
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Thx.. will try that.
I will charge to 100% on Thursday night as I'm leaving on a small road trip on Friday.. 210 miles to the closest level 3 charger at my destination..
Right now, SOC (display is 74.5 and SOC/BMS shows 72.5]
That's about right, I get 1.5% difference at similar SOC.
 
Based on my calculation, the total buffer on the Kona should be 4.62% when new. So, 95.38% when the car is new..
Battery size is 67.1 kwh, available to owner, 64kw..

Yeah , I have seen that 67.1 kwh gross battery capacity number thrown around a couple of web sites, not sure if its an official number. I just know when my battery was brand spanking new torque pro reported the BMS reading as 95% when the display indicated 100%. I believe Kiwime indicated his is 96%, so there is probably a little variation. I hope that helps.
 
I wonder if the 000_Battery_power value is the charge the car is receiving?
The display shows charging at 7.4kwh and battery power shows about -6.9kw
Would be a 7% loss. Not too much..
Screenshot_20200217-220633_Torque.webp
 
Yeah , I have seen that 67.1 kwh gross battery capacity number thrown around a couple of web sites, not sure if its an official number. I just know when my battery was brand spanking new torque pro reported the BMS reading as 95% when the display indicated 100%. I believe Kiwime indicated his is 96%, so there is probably a little variation. I hope that helps.
That would perfectly match the 67.1 kwh battery size, so those numbers seem to confirm that.
Brand new should be 95.3%. I'm approaching 22k miles now, so I don't expect to still have that much buffer.
 
All my cells except for #31 have 3.88 volt and 31 has 3.86 volt. Is that a problem?
20 mv differential is not an issue,as a matter of fact that is pretty good; just keep your eye on it to ensure the equalization process is working as it should.
I believe the Kona pack has 3 parallel cells per unit of measurement so a defect in one will be hard to recognize until it drags down the voltage of the other two.
I wonder if the cells in question are in the "stacked" module below the rear seat where coolant circulation might be slightly less.
 
That would perfectly match the 67.1 kwh battery size, so those numbers seem to confirm that.
Brand new should be 95.3%. I'm approaching 22k miles now, so I don't expect to still have that much buffer.
I think you will likely have it all. I suspect you will have not much if any degradation at 22,000 miles. The Bolt has very similar LG packs to ours. This Bolt owner calculates a 5-8% degradation over 105,000 miles. https://www.torquenews.com/8861/chevy-bolt-ev-battery-health-after-100000-miles
 
20 mv differential is not an issue,as a matter of fact that is pretty good; just keep your eye on it to ensure the equalization process is working as it should.
I believe the Kona pack has 3 parallel cells per unit of measurement so a defect in one will be hard to recognize until it drags down the voltage of the other two.
I wonder if the cells in question are in the "stacked" module below the rear seat where coolant circulation might be slightly less.
Last night, I charged to 80% and all cells ended up with 3.92 Volt, so the discrepancy on #31 was gone.
 
Yeah , I have seen that 67.1 kwh gross battery capacity number thrown around a couple of web sites, not sure if its an official number. I just know when my battery was brand spanking new torque pro reported the BMS reading as 95% when the display indicated 100%. I believe Kiwime indicated his is 96%, so there is probably a little variation. I hope that helps.
Mine showed 95.5% BMS at 100% on the Display..
Screenshot_20200222-074855_Torque.webp
 
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