Thanks for the suggestion.
Multiple System Warnings
- Thread starter K8QM
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Texas22Step
Well-Known Member
You are welcome! (I also forgot to mention that if you turn off or disconnect the 12V battery, you will need to be sure you have taken a real key with you and are familiar how to open the door in the absence of 12V battery power / electric door locks, since you will need to get into the car in order to open the hood to reset the 12V battery. Look in the owner's manual for that info.)
The HV battery charges the 12-volt battery only when the Clarity is turned on, so leaving it plugged in will not maintain the charge in the 12-volt battery.
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hanman
Member
PeterK909 - My gut feeling is that the dealer did not fully charge the 12 volts battery (not the big 17 KWH propulsion battery) when they delivered the car to you.
And if you don't drive the car a lot (it is not ON), then there is less chance for the car to get charged and many of the computers sensors on board need the 12 volts battery to provide good juice and it isn't. I would ask the dealer to make sure the 12 volts battery is good and fully charged.
Here are the Service Bulletins for the software updates that you need: There even may be newer ones. This is from my dealing with the problem last August:
For the US:
18-069 is the HV range fix
18-079 is the multiple warnings fix
weave
Active Member
What is considered "turned on" for this? For example, if pre-conditioning is on, will that count? It certainly starts up bluetooth since my phone connects to the car when pre-conditioning.
Was just wondering if a workaround for battery tending when it's parked for a long time, like at an airport. One could just pre-condition it remotely every few days to give the 12 volt a bit of a charge.
Someone will have to put a voltmeter on the 12-volt battery and start pre-conditioning to answer your question.
hanman
Member
Sorry I mistyped... The above statement is not accurate. I do remember the 12 volts battery charging slowly when the car was plugged in and the car was OFF.
I saw the voltage go from about 10 Volts to 12 Volts over a period of around 2 days using a multimeter. The car was only plugged in and I did not drive it. So this is what I observed.
I just want to make sure that I am not misleading anybody.
Perhaps I was wrong. I can't remember if it was @M.M. or @Hi.Ho.Silver who used the 12-volt battery to power appliances after a hurricane caused a power outage and said that the Clarity had to be turned on to get the HV battery to charge the 12-volt battery. What I failed to realize was that the Clarity was not plugged in while the grid was down, so perhaps the HV battery DOES recharge the 12-volt battery if the car is plugged in even when the Clarity is off.
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hanman
Member
insightman -
That would make sense. It is logical and it protects the main propulsion battery from draining itself trying to keep the 12 volts battery constantly toped of - when the car is not plugged in that is.
I can only imagine how battery draining the few months (3 to 6 months plus) journey that the battery has to endure from Japan and all the way until it reaches the car dealership. So the software must be written to protect the propulsion battery first and foremost. The 12 volts battery is easily replaceable.
2002
Well-Known Member
I thought I read that not only do you have to be plugged in but also charging in order for the 12V to be charged. Once the main battery is full then it stops charging thus the 12V will stop being charged. Thus the car will sit for two weeks or whatever without any charging for either the main or 12V. Maybe if you have daily scheduled charging it might do an occasional topping up of the main battery, but probably not for long enough to help out the 12V very much.
If in fact that is how it works then here's an idea - before your trip run the EV range down to zero, or at least much lower than full (recommended anyway when you won't be driving the car for an extended period). Then let's say you will be gone for two weeks, then you would schedule Level 1 charging for an hour each day, or thirty minutes a day, or whatever amount that will reach just short of full before your scheduled return. In that case the 12V will be getting charged daily an amount which should be more than enough to keep it from being run down. If you can select Level 1 or Level 2 I would say select Level 1 as the charging time will be longer, and I wouldn't be surprised if the 12V charging rate is the same whether you are charging Level 1 or Level 2. All just guesses on my part, but seems like it should be possible to verify with a voltmeter on the 12V and do some experiments.
If in fact that is how it works then here's an idea - before your trip run the EV range down to zero, or at least much lower than full (recommended anyway when you won't be driving the car for an extended period). Then let's say you will be gone for two weeks, then you would schedule Level 1 charging for an hour each day, or thirty minutes a day, or whatever amount that will reach just short of full before your scheduled return. In that case the 12V will be getting charged daily an amount which should be more than enough to keep it from being run down. If you can select Level 1 or Level 2 I would say select Level 1 as the charging time will be longer, and I wouldn't be surprised if the 12V charging rate is the same whether you are charging Level 1 or Level 2. All just guesses on my part, but seems like it should be possible to verify with a voltmeter on the 12V and do some experiments.
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KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
I have no idea how the battery charges but I believe there is a specific fuse that is pulled for shipment and reinserted later to protect the battery.
StickWare
Active Member
Hey there. My situation might be different but here’s what happened. I Uber in my Clarity. While driving someone last night I hit a relatively small hole in the road but it was the perfect size to trap, pinch and destroy my tire.
Well. It actually took out both right side tires!!
I drove it home 2 mi slowly with no issues.
They wanted over $100 to bring a flat bed. So I drove to tire place. Maybe a mistake. The front right tire basically was off the rim. All of a sudden all the warnings appeared.
When I got there I noticed that I destroyed the shield around the tire. Also a plug was unplugged. I plugged it back in hoping all would be well. Not so
I got 4 tires. But errors still showing. Tried disconnecting battery. I only did negative though.
Any advice??? I can’t see anything disconnected by the tire. Don’t really want to goto dealer and have them yell at me.
Thanks. .
Well. It actually took out both right side tires!!
I drove it home 2 mi slowly with no issues.
They wanted over $100 to bring a flat bed. So I drove to tire place. Maybe a mistake. The front right tire basically was off the rim. All of a sudden all the warnings appeared.
When I got there I noticed that I destroyed the shield around the tire. Also a plug was unplugged. I plugged it back in hoping all would be well. Not so
I got 4 tires. But errors still showing. Tried disconnecting battery. I only did negative though.
Any advice??? I can’t see anything disconnected by the tire. Don’t really want to goto dealer and have them yell at me.
Thanks. .
Attachments
Texas22Step
Well-Known Member
IMHO, this situation is outside the experience of most, if not all, of the forum members. Your last posted screen shot shows over 55,000 mi. on the odometer, which I am guessing far exceeds most of us (not that this is the only or determining factor). I would suggest you take the car to a dealer with some Clarity expertise and get them to evaluate your specific situation and how to fix it. No dealer should "yell at you" for this.
MajorAward
Active Member
OK, I have to ask. Are all 55439 miles on the original tires?
StickWare
Active Member
LOL. Actually the two on the back were original. I’ve rotated tires. They had some tread but they were done.
Sandroad
Well-Known Member
I suspect there was damaging to the wiring, probably the wheel speed sensor, when the plug was forcibly pulled apart by the destroyed tire. The dealer may have to replace that wiring harness, the wheel well shield, and a wheel (if the tire was so far gone it was riding on the rim). Don’t be surprised at a big bill from this and see what your insurance might cover.
StickWare
Active Member
The rim is fine. New tires on
Going to dealer on Friday. Hope it’s not too expensive