I was so lucky to get the hood-scoop eject button in my SE! It filled out the switch complement and got rid of the skeuomorphic fake hood ornament. However, it's a one-time-use button, so it works only the first time you press it.
Why did you choose the trim level you choose?
- Thread starter MarkSasaki
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MarkSasaki
Well-Known Member
When I tried it, my brother in law was driving the car, probably more scary than if I was in the driver's seat.
Rexsio
Well-Known Member
And put double fake exhaust 3” to pretend you are an ACE dinosaur driving a gas car to me is nothing to ashamed to drive electric car to a future .
Rexsio
Well-Known Member
That button could be $2000 button proposition to do right and if I’m tired with hood scup I fill with quart of
Bondo to eliminate a fake crab for $20 and a lot of sending .
Getting a scoopless base F56 hood, having it painted and installed cost me about $1,600 after selling the original hood for a mere $200. I first tried selling it on eBay for $1, not including shipping, but no takers.
Rexsio
Well-Known Member
I was right that scooples hood with a button to replace is almost $2000
MarkSasaki
Well-Known Member
Where did you get the car button sticker?
I'm just a Photoshop amateur, there is no sticker on that button.
I did, however, make one sticker for my SE. When MINI's head of design, Oliver Heilmer, responded to my 2019 letter begging for a hood-scoop delete option, he replied he would take up my request with Marketing. In those few words--along with no concept drawings or concept cars or SE prototypes having a hood scoop (see my website)--he let me know he agreed with my negative opinion regarding a fake hood scoop on an electric car. So I purloined the signature from his letter and made a sticker design to indicate my SE is an Oliver Heilmer Signature Edition SE, unsullied by the bullies in Marketing.
I think this is a great designer-worthy signature (I can identify one letter, the "O" in Oliver, because it comes first).
Edit: I've wondered what would happen if Mr. Heilmer had won the battle for a scoopless SE. Would the SE owners who remove the MINI-E logo from the hatch, and replace the grille and side-markers to make the SE look like an ICE MINI cut fake scoops into their hoods? Why haven't any of those ICE-look fans added fake exhaust pipes?
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jwzimm
Well-Known Member
Oh I know this pain well. On my 2011 Clubman it had a blank where the rear fog switch would be. I could not handle the thought that, not only was there a switch missing, but there was a bulb in the rear tail light that never was used! That was rectified and the rear fog was made operational...only to never once be used.
My current struggle is the useless rear fogs on the SE. Once again I find myself with a nervous tick concerning useless lightbulbs and a dead button on the light controls.
It is a sickness...
Carsten Haase
Well-Known Member
I can't speak for the others but I removed the badge because I thought it was ugly (and generally don't like badges or chrome). I'd remove the hood scoop and all of the nonfunctional design elements too if it didn't cost money lol
If it was available I would have chosen something like the MINI strip concept, just maybe with something besides a blue and brown interior
SameGuy
Well-Known Member
I got an OEM switch module off Amazon for ~$150. It pops in with about two minutes of effort, plus the amount of time it takes to code the changes in Expert Mode.Oh I know this pain well. On my 2011 Clubman it had a blank where the rear fog switch would be. I could not handle the thought that, not only was there a switch missing, but there was a bulb in the rear tail light that never was used! That was rectified and the rear fog was made operational...only to never once be used.
My current struggle is the useless rear fogs on the SE. Once again I find myself with a nervous tick concerning useless lightbulbs and a dead button on the light controls.
It is a sickness...
Puppethead
Well-Known Member
Oh, if you have details on this I'd love it. I did a lot of research into knowing what needed to be done, but didn't think it would be easy to replace the switch. I know it's basically just a matter of getting the right switch, and then coding the rear fog button and the rear fog dash indicator.
MarkSasaki
Well-Known Member
Oh I know this pain well. On my 2011 Clubman it had a blank where the rear fog switch would be. I could not handle the thought that, not only was there a switch missing, but there was a bulb in the rear tail light that never was used! That was rectified and the rear fog was made operational...only to never once be used.
My current struggle is the useless rear fogs on the SE. Once again I find myself with a nervous tick concerning useless lightbulbs and a dead button on the light controls.
It is a sickness...
I looked into the the useless rear fogs when I had my 2019, I never got around to doing it but it should still hold true for the SE. A European headlight switch assembly has the rear fog button, and supposedly it will just plug into the existing plug. Some coding needs to be done in Bimmercode and when done, you will have a functional rear fog light system and no blank switch.
jwzimm
Well-Known Member
I do understand what would need to be done to activate them. I would just be another expense for something I would likely never use though. There is a limit to the amount of money I will spend to scratch my engineer itch.
I actually like the idea of coding them to activate with the brake lights more to be honest. I don't have Bimmercode though so I would need to either get that or dust off my old coding laptop. I have also read that coding this has cause others to have only half of their normal brake lights come on so I would be nervous about unintended consequences. Combine that with the regen brake light behavior and it may result in more annoyance. Honestly I think the best thing would be to find a way to make them function with the Brake Force Indication system such that they illuminate or even flash under hard braking. That would be the best use of them in my opinion.
SameGuy
Well-Known Member
The lower left knee panel just pulls off. I started by gently prying from the lower right edge of the panel. The spring clips are pretty stout. The little cable unplugs from the module, and the module then pops out from the panel. There is one locating pin hole near one of the replacement module’s edge clips, so start by pressing in the module there. Then it’s 30 seconds to attach the cable and push the panel back in, starting at the top. No joke, it took longer to fire up BimmerCode than to swap the modules.
To code, load the the Body Control Module and enter Expert Mode. I used these instructions from NAM, they look somewhat intimidating but the changes are very easy to implement once you’re in that page in Expert Mode. Note that if your car ever goes in for service and they need to code the VO, their system will throw some faults because the changes we’re doing don’t get written to the VO. They will then see that you have the wrong switch installed and might try to order the correct one and replace yours! So just like all the other coding changes, these changes will have to be loaded again… but you must also remember to put the old headlight switch module back.
Five thumbs up!
MarkSasaki
Well-Known Member
Do you have a link? I cannot find it.
SameGuy
Well-Known Member
GTV INVESTMENT F55 Headlight Switch Knob 61319865845 9865845 GENUINE NEW
https://a.co/d/0qEIx3b
It’s correct. There were “only 3 left” when I ordered on June 9.
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MarkSasaki
Well-Known Member
GTV INVESTMENT F55 Headlight Switch Knob 61319865845 9865845 GENUINE NEW
https://a.co/d/0qEIx3b
It’s correct. There were “only 3 left” when I ordered on June 9.
Thanks! I just ordered one. Now it says there is only one more left. Only one blank button left to deal with.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.