Why did you choose the trim level you choose?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MarkSasaki
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SameGuy said:
There was a 5% coupon at checkout, so $152…?
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Plus I have the Amazon Prime credit card and get another 5% on purchases. I buy all of the competitor samples at work for anyone who needs anything so pretty much everything I buy for myself on Amazon is free due to the amount of rewards I get per month, I love that card!
 
SameGuy said:
The lower left knee panel just pulls off. I started by gently prying from the lower right edge of the panel. The spring clips are pretty stout. The little cable unplugs from the module, and the module then pops out from the panel. There is one locating pin hole near one of the replacement module’s edge clips, so start by pressing in the module there. Then it’s 30 seconds to attach the cable and push the panel back in, starting at the top. No joke, it took longer to fire up BimmerCode than to swap the modules.

To code, load the the Body Control Module and enter Expert Mode. I used these instructions from NAM, they look somewhat intimidating but the changes are very easy to implement once you’re in that page in Expert Mode. Note that if your car ever goes in for service and they need to code the VO, their system will throw some faults because the changes we’re doing don’t get written to the VO. They will then see that you have the wrong switch installed and might try to order the correct one and replace yours! So just like all the other coding changes, these changes will have to be loaded again… but you must also remember to put the old headlight switch module back.

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@SameGuy

I got my switch last week from Amazon, I'll be home from work this entire week. Any last minute tips you didn't specify in your post? Seems almost too easy.
 
It’s evident from your posts that your technical knowledge and abilities far surpass my own, so I have no doubt that it’s as simple as my post made it seem. I went slowly and carefully, and after years of dealing with Asian, American and oh yeah, French cars (a minuscule Mercedes manufactured at Smartville in Hambach), the stoutness of the MINI’s attachment points came as a pleasant surprise and relief. I think there is very little I could do to cock up this simple mod.
 
SameGuy said:
It’s evident from your posts that your technical knowledge and abilities far surpass my own, so I have no doubt that it’s as simple as my post made it seem. I went slowly and carefully, and after years of dealing with Asian, American and oh yeah, French cars (a minuscule Mercedes manufactured at Smartville in Hambach), the stoutness of the MINI’s attachment points came as a pleasant surprise and relief. I think there is very little I could do to cock up this simple mod.
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I just finished the switch and programming, the switch replacement was insanely easy, here is a pic of the panel removed so others can see the clip locations.

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The factory headlight switch easily detaches, you just tilt the switch from the bottom and it will pop right out. Installation is the reverse, place the top of the switch into the switch retaining clip, you only need to ensure the top right hole (from looking at the back of the switch) is lined up and tilt the switch down into position, it will clip back in. Plug in the wiring, note the shape of the plug for the orientation. I made sure the switch was in the off position just to be safe.

Reinstall the panel, the switch is now in and you have one less blank button.

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Coding was not painful either, I think the hardest part is looking for words you do not understand unless your are fluent in German. When using Bimmercode, DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT forget to put your phone in airplane mode. The only thing you want your phone connected to is the OBD2 dongle, you do not want music streaming over bluetooth, and calls and texts coming in while coding your car. Any interruptions in data transfer might mess things up so always put your phone in airplane mode.

I'll try and make the instructions a little more staightforward than what NAM had.

1. With your dongle inserted, power up your car, switch on, car not in the ready state. Basically, press the start switch without your foot on the brake.
2. Open the BimmerCode app and connect to your dongle.
3. Once BimmerCode is connected, open the "Body Control Module". This will take a minute or so.
4. Open "Expert Mode" from the Body Control Module.
5. Scroll down till you see, "3068 NSL Verbaut" and select "Verbaut".
6. Back out of the Body Control Module and press, "Code". If you have not done this before, the warnings and errors look scary but do not worry.
7. Disconnect your phone from BimmerCode and cycle the power on your car.
8. Repeat steps 2, 3, and 4.
9. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschluss/_L_output" click on it and then select, "nsl_l".
10. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_L_Function" and verify, "nebelschlusslicht" is selected. Mine already was.
11. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschluss/_R_output" click on it and then select, "nsl_r".
12. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_R_Function" and verify, "nebelschlusslicht" is selected. Mine already was.
13. Back out of the Body Control Module and press, "Code". Now you are done.

When it is done coding, power down your car, disconnect your phone from the dongle and remove the dongle from the OBD2 port.

To test it, turn your car on and verify that your headlights turn on in the far right switch position, and cycle through the other positions. My garage is dark so I verified the auto setting and parking light setting. Push the top fog light switch and the indicator on the dash lights up. Push the rear fog light switch and you will see a new indicator you normally would not have seen to the right of the fog light indicator.

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Now check to see if all your hard work paid off. Go to the rear of your car and the fog lights should be on.

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If you have an Iconic like I do, there is still one more blank switch, what it is, I have no idea. I put a sticker on it so my blank switch OCD doesn't kill me. Thank you Sameguy for sharing the link to the switch and original coding instructions.

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MarkSasaki said:
I just finished the switch and programming, the switch replacement was insanely easy, here is a pic of the panel removed so others can see the clip locations.
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How do you pry off the panel? Mine is on really tight and there's not much edge on the bottom to get a grip on.
 
I’m working on it how to make my blank switch on left to make my SE to be turbo charge supper charge

to make faster an my setting is only on sport mode/ high regen braking doing 130 miles on average beating a crab on it and I’m using only two switches bc I drive a car for fun.no issues with charging or get to work and I don’t care about my miles Old dud retired with 2 million miles on my belt.This SE is my first car ever 1 speed automatic I 3 too bc 52 years of driving all my cars were manual transmission.A trend what I’m seeing we try to make an SE Cooper as a super car but we missing at least $250000 to achieve a goal.Don’t take this seriously is opinion of an old dud.
 
I ordered the '23 Iconic, due to arrive in '23, because I'm hoping that it will come with matrix headlights, which will finally be legal in the US in 2023.

A UK review said that the Level 3 has matrix headlights, and I thought I had seen that a code change will enable them in the US. But I also read recently that the US model doesn't come with disabled matrix headlights. So, my future may involve getting European spec headlights after my Iconic arrives.

(In 2017, I purchased a Limited Subaru Impreza primarily because it had LED headlights. IIHS said that an Impreza with halogen headlights had only marginal illumination. Imagine a safety conscious auto manufacturer like Subaru selling a car with marginal headlights for years. Lo and behold, in Aug of this year, Subaru recalled 2017-2019 Impreza with halogen headlights due to faulty reflectors. Naturally, Subaru protested. )

For those unfamiliar with matrix headlights, Audi has a great video on YouTube, exhibiting functionality that I would not expect on a MINI:


And this video shows the matrix headlights on a MINI:
 
The bottom video appears to demonstrate that the matrix main beams are indeed functionally more effective than our “automatic” high beams — which switch on and off when the camera sees reflections off road signs and parked car tail lamps. I’ve used the feature a handful of times and it’s generally more frustrating than just reaching for the stalk when I see a car ahead.
 
SameGuy said:
I’ve used the feature a handful of times and it’s generally more frustrating than just reaching for the stalk when I see a car ahead.
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I love the automatic high beams on the SE. From what my friends say they're much more effective than other car brands. I wish they could be coded to be on by default (maybe they can?).

That said, any opportunity to get matrix headlights that comes along I will jump at.
 
My only concern is that MINI’s implementation turns out to be about as good as their version of ACC.
 
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