Why did you choose the trim level you choose?

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I wanted all of the options so shopped for Iconic trim, but of the cars available in the area that was about the only choice so it worked out for me.
 
Turnaround time, we got hooked on the base but the feature set was a bit more enjoyable on the mid level and we had a proper ETA with it. Price difference wasn’t too big of a problem.
 
For an effective price of $22,500, I got the Signature trim because there isn't a better deal on an EV anywhere as far as I'm concerned. Yes, there are many features on higher trims that might be nice, but the base model comes very nicely appointed. I think I got in right before the cutoff for the Signature trim and also the tax credit. When I placed the order in March, the Signature trim was still available on the website but when the dealer called me a few days later to confirm everything, Signature+ was the lowest trim on the website and he had to order Signature "off menu".

That was a mild bummer because I really kind of wanted the white roof and side mirrors which was previously available with Signature, but they said I'd have to upgrade to Signature+ for that, and my main goal was to get the cheapest electric car possible to thrash on the autocross course. A bonus with Signature was that I didn't have to worry about deleting the sunroof that I didn't want anyway, since that's not available on the base trim.
 
Thanks for documenting this, I am waiting on the my ENET cable for venturing on Bimmercode, and found this, awesome I was going to the route to use the rear fog lights as break lights but using them as intended is even better, the switch cluster not bad still the same price this was posted via amazon. Weird it is for F55, so any F56 doesn't have the rear fog lights or I mean on the US.

hope I do not mess things up, but this shows it is simple and easy to do.

thanks!!

I just finished the switch and programming, the switch replacement was insanely easy, here is a pic of the panel removed so others can see the clip locations.

View attachment 18090

The factory headlight switch easily detaches, you just tilt the switch from the bottom and it will pop right out. Installation is the reverse, place the top of the switch into the switch retaining clip, you only need to ensure the top right hole (from looking at the back of the switch) is lined up and tilt the switch down into position, it will clip back in. Plug in the wiring, note the shape of the plug for the orientation. I made sure the switch was in the off position just to be safe.

Reinstall the panel, the switch is now in and you have one less blank button.

View attachment 18091
Coding was not painful either, I think the hardest part is looking for words you do not understand unless your are fluent in German. When using Bimmercode, DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT forget to put your phone in airplane mode. The only thing you want your phone connected to is the OBD2 dongle, you do not want music streaming over bluetooth, and calls and texts coming in while coding your car. Any interruptions in data transfer might mess things up so always put your phone in airplane mode.

I'll try and make the instructions a little more staightforward than what NAM had.

1. With your dongle inserted, power up your car, switch on, car not in the ready state. Basically, press the start switch without your foot on the brake.
2. Open the BimmerCode app and connect to your dongle.
3. Once BimmerCode is connected, open the "Body Control Module". This will take a minute or so.
4. Open "Expert Mode" from the Body Control Module.
5. Scroll down till you see, "3068 NSL Verbaut" and select "Verbaut".
6. Back out of the Body Control Module and press, "Code". If you have not done this before, the warnings and errors look scary but do not worry.
7. Disconnect your phone from BimmerCode and cycle the power on your car.
8. Repeat steps 2, 3, and 4.
9. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschluss/_L_output" click on it and then select, "nsl_l".
10. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_L_Function" and verify, "nebelschlusslicht" is selected. Mine already was.
11. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschluss/_R_output" click on it and then select, "nsl_r".
12. Look for, "3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_R_Function" and verify, "nebelschlusslicht" is selected. Mine already was.
13. Back out of the Body Control Module and press, "Code". Now you are done.

When it is done coding, power down your car, disconnect your phone from the dongle and remove the dongle from the OBD2 port.

To test it, turn your car on and verify that your headlights turn on in the far right switch position, and cycle through the other positions. My garage is dark so I verified the auto setting and parking light setting. Push the top fog light switch and the indicator on the dash lights up. Push the rear fog light switch and you will see a new indicator you normally would not have seen to the right of the fog light indicator.

View attachment 18092

Now check to see if all your hard work paid off. Go to the rear of your car and the fog lights should be on.

View attachment 18093

If you have an Iconic like I do, there is still one more blank switch, what it is, I have no idea. I put a sticker on it so my blank switch OCD doesn't kill me. Thank you Sameguy for sharing the link to the switch and original coding instructions.

View attachment 18094
 
Value buyer here as well. The after tax credit price of $22,500 for the Signature model was simply to good to ignore. Still a lot of car for the money.


Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
 
Just did it, easy peasy, took like 15 minutes.

Thanks for documenting this, I am waiting on the my ENET cable for venturing on Bimmercode, and found this, awesome I was going to the route to use the rear fog lights as break lights but using them as intended is even better, the switch cluster not bad still the same price this was posted via amazon. Weird it is for F55, so any F56 doesn't have the rear fog lights or I mean on the US.

hope I do not mess things up, but this shows it is simple and easy to do.

thanks!!
 
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