Mini Cooper SE autocross first impressions

Since there's one gear, I really think the shortest tire is the way to go with this car. A rear swaybar and 205/40-16s on 7s would probably rocket it to somewhat GS competitive.
You can't use 16x7 wheels and stay in GS class. 16x6.5 or 17x7 are oem. Also have to watch offset. Only 7mm difference allowed in GS. The SE is very competitive in GS with just grippy tires.
 
You can't use 16x7 wheels and stay in GS class. 16x6.5 or 17x7 are oem. Also have to watch offset. Only 7mm difference allowed in GS. The SE is very competitive in GS with just grippy tires.

+/-1" on diameter is ok. So 15-17x6.5s or 16-18x7s are all legit. You're correct on the offset.
 
+/-1" on diameter is ok. So 15-17x6.5s or 16-18x7s are all legit. You're correct on the offset.
Mine is a base. In order to use 17x7 option wheels, I'd need to change my mirrors. Those are the only difference between mine and what I could have ordered in mid level... So right now, I have 16x6.5 rims.
I'd like 15s, at least for the front.
Gotta love rules.
 
The base model does not have folding mirrors or a dipping rear view mirror. I was on the fence about which to get. It really would not have been many more toys for the extra $4k after a sunroof delete.
Optional roof colour and the dipping rear mirror I wanted, I could have paid extra for some other extras. The HK sound was unavailable when I ordered. $4k buys a lot of toys.
 
My third autocross event. Actually a test and tune.
First one with proper autocross tyres: Falken RT660

I was fastest novice! I really thought that I was going to need a new excuse for tortoise times now that I can longer blame my tyres.

OMFG, that was fun.

Mini was overjoyed today. You could tell by the way it was wagging it's tail. Even the Cayman guy (who was slower than me :) commented on how sideways I was getting. Not too much of a problem mid corner, but transitions were interesting. One DNF when I almost spun. Front tyres got hot, the rears did not. It was fairly balanced until the tyres started getting heat. I stiffened the stock ARB with extra holes after my first event. I think I'll put that back to stock...

IMG_20230226_160201713.webp
 
Have you thought about a front strut bar at all? It seems like the ICE version should fit the SE. I am eyeing the NM Engineering option.
 
Have you thought about a front strut bar at all? It seems like the ICE version should fit the SE. I am eyeing the NM Engineering option.
I run street stock, no strut bars allowed. On my R53, it really didn't look like there'd be much benefit from one.
 
I've been autocrossing my SE going on second year now, and doing well for GS class. I'm wondering if there's any way to disable the nanny that keeps you from applying power when in a tight turn? I even notice it when backing out of my garage, but it really hinders me when I'm on course, halfway around a tight turn and I've got almost nothing! Also, what's your final verdict on the rear sway bar? I haven't gone there yet but just ordered lowering springs, spacers, lug bolt conversion and wider tires. It will put me in EVX class, but I'm already within 1/2 second of those Tesla's as is. Any advice is welcome.

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Even roller mode will cut power to stop the wheels spinning. I need to have a play in a deserted car park. I am now running sport mode and DSC 'off'.
I suspect that the car is just trying to stop the wheels spinning.
The big sway bar definitely helps with putting power down out of corners, but it's a real hindrance on long sweepers. The faster I go, the more sideways I am, even with power. Maybe it is OK and I just need to get used to it. It is good for really tight courses, but too much for me on the others. My first event with it was a fast course and my rear tyres were scrubbed much more than the fronts. 2nd event was really tight and I did well. 3rd event was banked and crazy fast, I was not wanting to push it, the rears wore similarly to the fronts. I'm going to try and make an adjustable linkage to give me a big range. If I fail, I will put a more subtle bar on. A solid 22 would probably be a better choice. There is a thick hollow 'Hardrace' 22, but $$$hipped from China.
A better driver could probably have a lot of fun along with rear tyre wear. But I'm not better enough, yet. ;-)
My last run at the tight course was a fun run and I deliberately threw it at the corners to get practice. My hands were a blur...
My last few events before the rear bar I was running the rear tyres only 2psi down on the fronts. That allowed rotation when I lifted or was aggressive. Balance was good, but grip was not optimal

If you fit stiffer springs, it may be a better match. ICE F56 front bars won't fit the the SE, so would currently need to be custom.
Are you within 1/2 second of M3Ps? They are crazy fast. The tight event a M3P set FTD (no karts). I merely beat most of the Miatas and all of CAM-C :-D. RWD Model 3s I sometimes beat.

If I were to leave GS:
Less roll
More tyre, much more tyre, wider wheels.
-ve camber for the front.
Better dampers.
The less roll and better dampers may be best achieved with some decent coilovers and the right bars front and rear. I think KW make some SE optimised coilovers. I'm half tempted to see if I can order a set without springs to stay in GS.
 
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Thanks for the advice. Yes, they're all MP3 versions. Here's last week's results. Screenshot_20230827_122220_Drive.webpScreenshot_20230827_122143_Drive.webp

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I think GS prep is as competitive the car is going to get. It's fun enough with 200tw and a rear bar. Slaloms are a blast with an MR car feel to them especially if you're expecting a fwd feel.

Adding grip will just magnify the power cut and make the car frustrating in sweepers when it won't give you power even though the car can handle more.

Maybe the next gen JCW EV will be a bit more permissive - or better yet get an LSD. One can dream.
 
I parked the car on ramps and had a long, hard stare at the area around the trailing arm.
To do a lever style adjustment for the rear bar, the brake hose has to move. A 45 degree elbow on the caliper would be great. But it is an M10 bubble fitting, which makes life difficult, they can't be clocked. Hmmm.
I also pondered sprung drop links, but the springs I'd need won't fit.
 
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