Low Conductivity Coolant Change Procedure
- Thread starter apu
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KiwiME
Well-Known Member
I wonder if the green is intentionally partly conductive? There was an issue that I heard about decades ago about certain cars having issues with the radiator becoming charged up due to coolant flow, resulting in corrosion. It might have been an urban legend but thought I'd mention it.
apu
Well-Known Member
I think this article https://www.electronics-cooling.com...vity-liquid-coolants-for-electronics-cooling/ may give some clues why the low conductivity fluid requires relatively (every 60,000 km)frequent flush intervals. It not because the thermal or anti-corrosion properties significantly diminish rather "the long term ion leaching experiment showed that an increase in the electrical conductivity of the coolant fluid is contributed by ion leaching of both metals and polymers that were used in the closed loop cooling system"
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navguy12
Well-Known Member
The key takeaway:
Therefore, an ion exchange resin cartridge containing 20g of Dowex mixed bed resin may take on order 938 days to saturate. In other words, to maintain a low electrical conductivity, a resin cartridge with the dimension and weight specification as that of the resin cartridge used in the experiment, need to be changed every 30 months for the cooling system that was used in the experiment.
I’m sure that such a resin cartridge could be produced as a simple commodity, to be swapped out akin to a refrigerator water filter cartridge…but I’m just a shade tree mechanic.
Tried...but couldn't get the cap off
Is there some trick? I even tried to use large channel lock pliers to unscrew it but no luck. (didn't want to force it and break) It is hovering around zero here today, maybe try when warmer?
navguy12
Well-Known Member
IIRC, one must use a flat screwdriver inserted into “a slot” and then turn the screwdriver 90° (or pry it up (?)) whilst turning the cap counter (?) clockwise. Its a riff on child proof Aspirin bottles, except instead of pushing down on the lid while turning, you have to pry it past a locking tab…I think…Tried...but couldn't get the cap off
Is there some trick? I even tried to use large channel lock pliers to unscrew it but no luck. (didn't want to force it and break) It is hovering around zero here today, maybe try when warmer?
Couldn't find any slot (label on top is a man and a wrench), I turned it 90 degrees counter clockwise to unlock and tried to pry up, but no go. Used the wrench to keep turning CCW but didn't want to break (force) it as it was not coming off with any ease.
navguy12
Well-Known Member
Sorry, can’t help you then. I thought I had a tag on the procedure, even with a photo, but Mr. Google won’t let me find it again…
Aha, the Coriolis effect, Who would have thought of that?
Thanks, I will give it a try in a couple of days, hope it works.
Confirmed the cap is removed by turning CW
Measured resistance with my Fluke 179 to the same ground point and the low conductive blue reservoir fluid
1.713 M ohm (car off)
1.35 M ohm (car on)
Naturally I did not want to measure with my Megger at 500 or 1000V settings.
Edit : ambient temp ~0 C - will try again in summer when temp is warmer
Measured resistance with my Fluke 179 to the same ground point and the low conductive blue reservoir fluid
1.713 M ohm (car off)
1.35 M ohm (car on)
Naturally I did not want to measure with my Megger at 500 or 1000V settings.
Edit : ambient temp ~0 C - will try again in summer when temp is warmer
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
Thanks. It's interesting that you've obtained a lower resistance from the "non-conductive" coolant. I certainly didn't think of turning the car on for the measurement. Perhaps there's a flow of coolant initiated that changes this delicate measurement. Just checked mine, 9.6 M ohm off, 6.5 on. Temp here about 20°C, accuracy of my meter at this range unknown.
Seems a poor design choice, the latch should be enough to convey the hint that care is needed. I can see a lot of replacement caps needed in the future as mechanics take to it with slip-joint pliers.Confirmed the cap is removed by turning CW
Almost mine the first time trying
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
Decades ago a physicist I worked with was wandering around the building with a new very-expensive industrial Kodak megapixel camera asking people if they knew how to remove its power connecter so he could wire it up. It had what we later learned was a Swiss "Lemo" connector and none of us could figure out how to remove it. The inevitable happened; he just kept working on it with pliers until it in was in several broken pieces. No one thought of calling the manufacturer. It's one of those where you slide the barrel part to unlock the body. If you pull on the body first the barrel won't move.
apu
Well-Known Member
Since COVID seems to be ending in my province I went ahead and took advantage of 20% discount my dealer is offering to frontline folks for parts. Even so, I dished out just over $700 including taxes for 14 liters of the magic elixir. Since I use the car for my business I will further tax deduct and get another couple hundred off. I think that's as good as I am going to get from a Canadian source and get me very close the cheapest online US price of around $47 per jug. Sadly most US online sites won't ship to me and I am going to speculate that the shipping cost on 14 liters of fluid from the states would be on the higher side of unpleasant.
I am still undecided if I am going to drop even significantly more cash for a bidirectional capable scan tool or let the dealer charge me 1.5 hours shop labor(who am I kidding I probably will buy the the ridiculously expensive tool). Nonetheless I will have to wait until it warms up anyways. Its -22C today, way too cold to be changing coolant in the driveway
I am still undecided if I am going to drop even significantly more cash for a bidirectional capable scan tool or let the dealer charge me 1.5 hours shop labor(who am I kidding I probably will buy the the ridiculously expensive tool). Nonetheless I will have to wait until it warms up anyways. Its -22C today, way too cold to be changing coolant in the driveway
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Priced accordingly to what I thought. Have you checked out the color - is it blue? Any specs on the data sheet (if there is one) - as in low conductance?Since COVID seems to be ending in my province I went ahead and took advantage of 20% discount my dealer is offering to frontline folks for parts. Even so, I dished out just over $700 including taxes for 14 liters of the magic elixir. Since I use the car for my business I will further tax deduct and get another couple hundred off. I think that's as good as I am going to get from a Canadian source and get me very close the cheapest online US price of around $47 per jug. Sadly most US online sites won't ship to me and I am going to speculate that the shipping cost on 14 liters of fluid from the states would be on the higher side of unpleasant.
I am still undecided if I am going to drop even significantly more cash for a bidirectional capable scan tool or let the dealer charge me 1.5 hours shop labor(who am I kidding I probably will buy the the ridiculously expensive tool). Nonetheless I will have to wait until it warms up anyways. Its -22C today, way too cold to be changing coolant in the driveway
/QUOTE]
Different part# than the 00232-19091 used for the battery pack swap top ups.
apu
Well-Known Member
I had to order the 7 jugs as dealer only had one and elected to leave that one with him so I did not crack it open. The parts guy verified its the correct fluid against my VIN and my online research says its blue. I will double check when I pick it up on Wednesday and report back.
Oh bonus I just found a discount online Toronto dealer selling it for $71 jug in CAN$ and it looks like they ship for free.
https://www.hyundaipartspro.com/p/Hyundai__/40-KONA-E-Antifreeze/78770712/07100J2A20.html
Oh bonus I just found a discount online Toronto dealer selling it for $71 jug in CAN$ and it looks like they ship for free.
https://www.hyundaipartspro.com/p/Hyundai__/40-KONA-E-Antifreeze/78770712/07100J2A20.html
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apu
Well-Known Member
I'm starting to have some doubts what the parts guy sold me now that that I looked up the 00232-19091 part number at the online Toronto dealer site, they have it listed at $125 a jug! I wonder if its the green fluid they sold me. I will report back.Good enough I suppose, guess you will find out sooner or later.
You will own the coolest Kona EV in Canada...if you haven't already earned that title
navguy12
Well-Known Member
So, essentially, to budget correctly to afford to operate a Kona EV with the blue coolant, one has to set aside one (1) dollar a day, each day, every three years, to cover the expense of R&Ring of this coolant every three years as called for in the maintenance specifications.Since COVID seems to be ending in my province I went ahead and took advantage of 20% discount my dealer is offering to frontline folks for parts. Even so, I dished out just over $700 including taxes for 14 liters of the magic elixir. Since I use the car for my business I will further tax deduct and get another couple hundred off. I think that's as good as I am going to get from a Canadian source and get me very close the cheapest online US price of around $47 per jug. Sadly most US online sites won't ship to me and I am going to speculate that the shipping cost on 14 liters of fluid from the states would be on the higher side of unpleasant.
I am still undecided if I am going to drop even significantly more cash for a bidirectional capable scan tool or let the dealer charge me 1.5 hours shop labor(who am I kidding I probably will buy the the ridiculously expensive tool). Nonetheless I will have to wait until it warms up anyways. Its -22C today, way too cold to be changing coolant in the driveway
This routine maintenance category (of costs) will end up being the third most expensive operating item of this vehicle (behind depreciation and insurance).