By the time the true capacity is being displayed, you'll probably be over the warranty mileage!
Budget Battery Capacity Readout
- Thread starter MrFixit
- Start date
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The dealer is trying to pull a fast one on you and they may succeed. They should have provided, or you should have asked for, a battery capacity reading prior to the codes being cleared. They’ve reset the codes, which reset the capacity reading and there’s a good possibly that the code won’t appear again until after you’ve exceeded the warranty period. Honda SOP “Screw the customer”.
Hobbesgsr
Well-Known Member
I wasn't worried about the battery capacity since that was within the battery warranty range. I did ask for a copy of the diagnostic printout with the odometer reading and the fault codes. Plus the rep promised to keep the service ticket open even if the odo goes past 160k; whatever that is worth.
I hope that within the next 1000km, I can get enough full charge cycles in.
There’s more information available about those codes than what your fault log manager displays. They indicate a more serious condition than a weak 12V battery and replacing the 12V battery is not on the list of proposed solutions.
Codes don’t always pinpoint a problem but a good first step is to have them read and properly diagnosed by a dealer. The DIY code readers rarely proved the level of detail that a dealers reader provides.
Hobbesgsr
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the suggestion but I have a ScanGuage permanently mounted and set to monitor LV battery voltage and RPM. Voltage reads 12.8V resting and 14.6V on.
Lonewarrior
Member
Another update on my battery capacity. 2018 model 110k miles. 37.5 Ah. It's been driven in EV mode 90% of the time.
sanchiomel
New Member
Hi everyone. Has anyone solved the p1dc7 error?
Lonewarrior
Member
Doesn't the code mean the battery is dying?
sanchiomel
New Member
This error only occurs in winter
Lonewarrior
Member
It actually makes sense. The motor battery is weaker in cold temperature. Unless we're talking about Florida winter here.
Hobbesgsr
Well-Known Member
Update: After the dealership ECU reset on Nov 24-25th, I drive and charged as usual and very slowly the range guess-o-meter started dropping. Last week, the car went over the the battery warranty (160,000 kms) and the range dropped back down to the usual 40km (~25 miles) range in the winter. Its been in the -5 celsius range lately.
Well, tonight the CEL and Power System warning light reappeared. I'll bring it to the dealership tomorrow morning hoping that the service advisor kept his promise to keep the work order open with the pre-battery warranty expiry odometer reading.
Well, tonight the CEL and Power System warning light reappeared. I'll bring it to the dealership tomorrow morning hoping that the service advisor kept his promise to keep the work order open with the pre-battery warranty expiry odometer reading.
Hobbesgsr
Well-Known Member
Update 2: After dropping off the car, the dealership called a few hours later that they will replace the HV battery under warranty. 
They are checking availability and will let me know when to drop off the car which will take approx. a day to complete the job.
Hope it wont be back ordered for 2 years like that YouTube vid @Lonewarrior posted.
They are checking availability and will let me know when to drop off the car which will take approx. a day to complete the job.Hope it wont be back ordered for 2 years like that YouTube vid @Lonewarrior posted.
Dan Albrich
Well-Known Member
Returning (intentionally) to an old thread. I end up reading my old posts to see how my traction battery has done over time. My last post in this thread I think was #687 (partly quoted below). That was Feb 2025. It's now early January 2026. Did the reading again, got 43.02, so a little better than I predicted last year. I did, hopefully correctly update the spreadsheet this time.
The car has been OK, but started doing something different this winter. That is it now easily goes to 0.0 charge (in 22 miles), but the bad part is the EV "bars" go to 0. This is abnormal, as the car's EV bars should stay at 2, and do HV mode automatically. If I let EV go to 0, I get strong angry bees sound once again. Resetting the car by disconnect/reconnect the 12v battery didn't work as it has to reset things in the past. I now have to pay more attention and never let EV range go to zero (more than in the past). The engine groans if I do it accidentally, and it smells hot. I did check the oil etc. and its spot on. Hopefully, I can train myself to avoid 0 EV better. It's gotten a little harder now that EV range is only 22 miles. Oh and I'm at 86,711 miles now.
Part of my post from last year follows:
"My Clarity is 80K miles now, with 44.3 ah reading. We're just beginning 2025, so I figure I have about 4 years to get to warranty zone (or not). 2025 this year, 2026, 2027, 2028 until purchase date? -- I purchased September 2018. My rate of loss is 1.5 ah per year which has been very consistent since I first got the car..."
The car has been OK, but started doing something different this winter. That is it now easily goes to 0.0 charge (in 22 miles), but the bad part is the EV "bars" go to 0. This is abnormal, as the car's EV bars should stay at 2, and do HV mode automatically. If I let EV go to 0, I get strong angry bees sound once again. Resetting the car by disconnect/reconnect the 12v battery didn't work as it has to reset things in the past. I now have to pay more attention and never let EV range go to zero (more than in the past). The engine groans if I do it accidentally, and it smells hot. I did check the oil etc. and its spot on. Hopefully, I can train myself to avoid 0 EV better. It's gotten a little harder now that EV range is only 22 miles. Oh and I'm at 86,711 miles now.
Part of my post from last year follows:
"My Clarity is 80K miles now, with 44.3 ah reading. We're just beginning 2025, so I figure I have about 4 years to get to warranty zone (or not). 2025 this year, 2026, 2027, 2028 until purchase date? -- I purchased September 2018. My rate of loss is 1.5 ah per year which has been very consistent since I first got the car..."
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is this something which can be covered under hondacare warranty?
I have the same 0.0 angry bee sound issue
Tacking onto this thread to ask if anyone has a recent experience getting a battery replaced under warranty:
Our 2018 had the check engine and power system lights with associated battery degradation codes show up (125K miles in a CARB state so within warranty terms). The dealer cleared the codes without documenting (sounds familiar), but claimed to have ordered the battery for us under warranty anyway, and the dash lights have returned after a short drive. I am returning to the dealer tomorrow to follow up (I have their paperwork that seems to authorize a $10K+ repair under warranty) and make sure they properly document the issue. I was told that Clarity batteries are currently backordered with no known timeframe for availability.
I reported my experience/issue to Honda via their email portal and have a case # but haven't heard anything back from them yet.
Does anyone have any experience or intel with replacement batteries that might shed some light on what to do next? I'd love to know a timeframe or some crumb of reassurance that Honda will come through and get us a battery so we can continue to use the car.
Our 2018 had the check engine and power system lights with associated battery degradation codes show up (125K miles in a CARB state so within warranty terms). The dealer cleared the codes without documenting (sounds familiar), but claimed to have ordered the battery for us under warranty anyway, and the dash lights have returned after a short drive. I am returning to the dealer tomorrow to follow up (I have their paperwork that seems to authorize a $10K+ repair under warranty) and make sure they properly document the issue. I was told that Clarity batteries are currently backordered with no known timeframe for availability.
I reported my experience/issue to Honda via their email portal and have a case # but haven't heard anything back from them yet.
Does anyone have any experience or intel with replacement batteries that might shed some light on what to do next? I'd love to know a timeframe or some crumb of reassurance that Honda will come through and get us a battery so we can continue to use the car.
Honda's timeframe might get accelerated if there starts being complaints to NHTSA, EPA or whatever responsible federal agency that holds sway over safety and emissions related issues. Carmakers don't like it when the big boys come knocking. Battery degradation is something that's known to happen and it's up to the manufacturer to be prepared for such things.
Dan Albrich
Well-Known Member
JKroll-
So it can be very normal and common for folks to see the EV range go to 0. I mean if you have the widget selected in the display that has the EV range value and the HV value and total range (which I have selected all of the time). The anomalous behavior is if the EV bars (left side), quit displaying bars. From years of experience, I've learned the car tries to keep a 10% buffer which equates to 2 bars of EV. If you go below 10, but not below 5% as measured in the HondaLink app you may see 1 bar of EV range. And if you drop below 5%, you'll see no bars.
This "no bars" condition is the thing that's never supposed to happen. This also coincides with the EV value in the dash widget reading 0 or 0.0.
Anyway, when this occurs the car runs the gas engine with very high RPM. I try really hard to never let this happen. And yes, if I goof, I hit the HV charge button to hopefully regain some EV range.
Edit- the "new" part of this for me, I've always been able if I fail to notice 0 miles of EV range to have the EV "bars" disappear. But I typically get maybe 6-8 miles of range "below" zero. What I mean is if I'm within just a few miles of home, I used to routinely let the car go to 0 ev range, then just get the car on the charging cable (EVSE) as soon as I got home. What's new for me is now when the display (numeric) says 0 ev range, I very quickly (read almost instantly) go to 0 bars of EV -- no longer having a 6-8 mile buffer. And that triggers the angry bees sound.
Anyway, IMO this should be a warranty issue if your car consistently does this (mine does now). But getting the dealer to handle this or understand what you're talking about is a trick. I have until September 2026 on my HondaCare so most likely the problem will get worse and throw some codes. Or I hope if I have problems that limit the use of the car, they happen while I'm in warranty.
-Dan
PS: I'm also in a ZEV state so I should get 10 years on the traction battery even if out of HondaCare. There's also a mileage limit, but I'm not near that.
One more edit: The reason I don't force the issue until something fails: i.e. let it run with EV 0 and let it do whatever its gonna do -- since I have HondaCare etc. I've read in Clarity forums a dangerous condition can occur where the car loses power, including on the freeway. I personally believe each of these cases were ones where the driver failed to notice they allowed EV range to go to 0, and then exceeded the 10% buffer. So the folks who hate Clarity and consider it unreliable I think are folks who did this at least once. I'm very careful to avoid any measurable driving when EV range is 0, and my Clarity has never lost power. BTW: If no charger is anywhere nearby, just hold the HV button to get HV Charge going. EV charge should slowly grow the EV range (even from 0).
So it can be very normal and common for folks to see the EV range go to 0. I mean if you have the widget selected in the display that has the EV range value and the HV value and total range (which I have selected all of the time). The anomalous behavior is if the EV bars (left side), quit displaying bars. From years of experience, I've learned the car tries to keep a 10% buffer which equates to 2 bars of EV. If you go below 10, but not below 5% as measured in the HondaLink app you may see 1 bar of EV range. And if you drop below 5%, you'll see no bars.
This "no bars" condition is the thing that's never supposed to happen. This also coincides with the EV value in the dash widget reading 0 or 0.0.
Anyway, when this occurs the car runs the gas engine with very high RPM. I try really hard to never let this happen. And yes, if I goof, I hit the HV charge button to hopefully regain some EV range.
Edit- the "new" part of this for me, I've always been able if I fail to notice 0 miles of EV range to have the EV "bars" disappear. But I typically get maybe 6-8 miles of range "below" zero. What I mean is if I'm within just a few miles of home, I used to routinely let the car go to 0 ev range, then just get the car on the charging cable (EVSE) as soon as I got home. What's new for me is now when the display (numeric) says 0 ev range, I very quickly (read almost instantly) go to 0 bars of EV -- no longer having a 6-8 mile buffer. And that triggers the angry bees sound.
Anyway, IMO this should be a warranty issue if your car consistently does this (mine does now). But getting the dealer to handle this or understand what you're talking about is a trick. I have until September 2026 on my HondaCare so most likely the problem will get worse and throw some codes. Or I hope if I have problems that limit the use of the car, they happen while I'm in warranty.
-Dan
PS: I'm also in a ZEV state so I should get 10 years on the traction battery even if out of HondaCare. There's also a mileage limit, but I'm not near that.
One more edit: The reason I don't force the issue until something fails: i.e. let it run with EV 0 and let it do whatever its gonna do -- since I have HondaCare etc. I've read in Clarity forums a dangerous condition can occur where the car loses power, including on the freeway. I personally believe each of these cases were ones where the driver failed to notice they allowed EV range to go to 0, and then exceeded the 10% buffer. So the folks who hate Clarity and consider it unreliable I think are folks who did this at least once. I'm very careful to avoid any measurable driving when EV range is 0, and my Clarity has never lost power. BTW: If no charger is anywhere nearby, just hold the HV button to get HV Charge going. EV charge should slowly grow the EV range (even from 0).
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