Does the 6-year time period begin from the original purchase date? Yours is a 2018, correct?
Yes, but the warranty expiration date is in March 2026 since I bought it in 2020.
Does the 6-year time period begin from the original purchase date? Yours is a 2018, correct?
Be careful... I think @Landshark has a point that with most of these extended warranties, the quoted time applies from the original vehicle purchase rather than from when you purchased the warranty. Check your paperwork carefully.Yes, but the warranty expiration date is in March 2026 since I bought it in 2020.
Yes, but the warranty expiration date is in March 2026 since I bought it in 2020.
Its very interesting car (just look on a price for new one) with LFP battery. Its better than Li-Ion
Yeap, but different components. More safety, better temp stability, more charging cyclesLFP is a Li-Ion battery.
Yeap, but different components. More safety, better temp stability, more charging cycles
Li-Ion was mentioned in the context of the Clarity battery chemistry, which is NMC-based. But since you decided to get smart about it — sure, technically LiFePO4 is also a Li-ion chemistry. That doesn't mean they're interchangeable or that the comparison wasn't valid. It's like saying "all dogs are animals, so a chihuahua and a wolf are basically the same." Cute logic — but no.You said it’s better than Li-Ion, when it is Li-Ion. How is that possible?
For the 3 priorities that you mentioned, LFP may be the appropriate choice. In an application where lower cost or less weight are priorities or 5000 charge cycles are not necessary, a different chemistry may me the appropriate choice.
Li-Ion was mentioned in the context of the Clarity battery chemistry, which is NMC-based. But since you decided to get smart about it — sure, technically LiFePO4 is also a Li-ion chemistry. That doesn't mean they're interchangeable or that the comparison wasn't valid. It's like saying "all dogs are animals, so a chihuahua and a wolf are basically the same." Cute logic — but no.
Sorry for the delay in response, folks. Honestly, I've been trying not to jinx this. At present my replacement battery shipment is still showing as 'on hold' with no date expected for shipment. But the dealer assures me that everything warranty-wise is submitted.
Here's the quick and dirty version. 2 weeks ago I started my car and every light came on but the car would not start. Assuming a dead 12v battery, I jumped it and it fired right up. After about 5 miles of driving I got a check engine light and an error stating that I could not change the "drive mode". Upon arrival I have OBDII errors codes of P1DC7 and P0A7F (hybrid battery pack deterioration).
I brought the car to the dealer with no agenda. Just with the note that the check engine light was on and the circumstances leading up to it.
After about 48 hours it was clear that they were struggling to diagnose the vehicle. That's when I provided them with the PDI, the warranty parts list, and my current battery capacity (38.8) compared to the warranty threshold. 24 hours after that they said that they said that all this points to the battery needing replacement and they started down that path.
So that's where I sit.
From my experience so far, here is what I'd recommend:
1) A check engine light or error code is what will start the ball rolling (without that, capacity alone won't get you anywhere. There's nothing for them to diagnose)
2) Let them do their jobs before thrusting your expertise on them. They're typically good at what they do, but most people haven't even heard of a clarity much less worked on one
3) Offer them the information you have and offer your opinion about what it could be. My thought is after 2 days of struggling with a car they knew little about, they were about to make a hail mary decision anyways. This at least gives them the information to make an educated decision
Stay tuned! At this point I envision someone with a flashlight looking for the crate market "Clarity Traction Battery" in the warehouse from the last scene of Raiders of the Lost Ark.
And if you follow the generally accepted charging rules you can make this new battery last many times longer than the first one."We have top men working on it"
So far, so good. Capacity shows 54.98. But taking the exact same route to and from work every day shows a about a 30% less SOC usage than with the previous battery. My typical range (in spring, little AC/heat, mostly surface roads) was around 40 miles, after a few days of driving I'm showing 57 (which will balance out over time)
This worked out perfectly--the first battery to conveniently conked out while still covered by the warranty. The second battery is the one you want to coddle.And if you follow the generally accepted charging rules you can make this new battery last many times longer than the first one.
@Thomas Clauser - A success story indeed !So there's a warranty success story for anyone in that situation.
So there's a warranty success story for anyone in that situation.
And if you follow the generally accepted charging rules you can make this new battery last many times longer than the first one.
Well, you were so close that it's not funny. I might have leaned on the dealer / Honda to make a warranty claim...It appears that the battery degradation curve is flattening out and will not get down to 36.6 by the time the Honda factory warranty ends at 100K miles
I'm not sure what happened to the State field for your data. I fixed it by copying a State field from another row. It worked then and I was able to set your State to Nevada to match your other entries.OP - Not sure if someone changed the validation rule on the "State" column in the spreadsheet or I am doing something wrong.
The state blanks out once the country is chosen as US. Manually entering the state doesn't seem to work either.
On the note of degradation, it does appear it slows down once the battery capacity reaches the low 40's