Audio upgrade for clarity

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Look at the later post, I did not like the Infinitys (too bright, plus they had an unnecessary coaxial structure with another tweeter, for yet more highs which was definitely not needed with the new Infinity tweeters) and sent the front door woofers back for Kickers:
https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/front-door-speakers.1248/#post-12973

Later, I put the same Kickers in the back doors too, but did not change the tweeters in the back doors. To me the audio was a LOT better, but it never was quite right.

Maybe I should have tried to keep the original tweeters with new woofers as a first go (in the past for other cars, the improvement was the other way, changing the tweeters first), or looked more carefully at woofer/tweeter pairs (individual woofers and tweeters designed to be used together). One problem is that the dedicated pairs most commonly need a separate speaker wire from the door to the pillar for a crossover in the door. A few mount the crossover with the tweeter in the pillar, for those without the door to pillar wires. For example, the Audison Prima system sounded pretty good in a Gen 1 Volt (separate crossovers for each tweeter that mount in the pillar).

Of course to some extent, the radio itself, and any internal crossovers in the head unit before the wires to the individual speakers, might limit what can be achieved.
 
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You would need to install an audio manager app for the volume knob to interface with the actual headunit (amp out versus the android digital audio source out). To do that you have to root/honda hack the headunit and likely change the output controls via a framework mod. I haven't done this as, well - just no interest. However, I plan to get back at audio tweaks when the weather improves in a few weeks. Glad that it worked for the digital side. What knob did you use (link to acquire for testing)?
 
Michael Angelos said:
Crutchfield kept flagging high wattage items for this vehicle, you installed an 800 watt sub, was there any issues with that?
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It's a powered sub, so it didn't matter. Please read my entire install thread if you have any other questions after I would be happy to follow up. My solution worked for me, others may not like it. Last on my list is modifying the ANC module to allow for just an analog damping of cabin noise versus the predictive BUS triggers that seem to be present by default that cause problems. I am also seriously considering creating a center channel in the front for stage imaging.... hmmm (that will require a virtual 3.1 module.... need more time and beer.

Cheers, Cash
 
Cash Traylor said:
Glad that it worked for the digital side. What knob did you use (link to acquire for testing)?
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(Assuming you are asking me about the USB volume control.) It was just a generic USB knob that I had for desktop use. Because I am cheap, that's what I bought. :-) It's this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016U2KXCG/), but there are zillions just like it. This one is too big for use in the car. I was going to make one myself until I saw how cheap it was to just buy one. I still might if a solution arises. Interfacing via bluetooth might also be a possibility if the head unit software situation is resolved.
 
Browsing the tech site today while contemplating my center channel project... still undecided on this one for several reasons. However wanted to post a grab I made from the Clarity Fuel Cell docs that has all of Honda's speaker locations and information for the body (Clarity base shell) we only got the 8 speakers versus 11 possible. Here are the details for the factory locations.

Cheers,
Cash
 

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Decided to put the center channel 2.1 DolbyIIPro idea on the back burner and go back to the modified ANC module. I want to get as much analog ANC back without affecting the "upgraded" sound system performance. I am trying to find a "shade tree mechanic" version of an ANC evaluation protocol to actually test the dang thing. I can watch the pulses on the Osmelliscope, but the phase impact is hard to quantify with the BUS channels removed. What I need is a good old fashioned RTA or Db meter.... Will report back when it is not so dang cold in Dallas.... I know, 9 pages back I was complaining about the heat...

The Foster speaker that will fit perfectly is pricey if I can't power it correctly and other bodge fit job speakers I think would result in a reduction in sound quality over quantity and what I have working now sounds pretty good for the price point. Would love a good sound processor, but that would triple my price of play.

Cheers,
Cash
 
Where did you guys tap in for signal for the sub? Since the speakers are only at the doors, did you tap in from there and ran the hi level to the trunk?
 
Cash Traylor said:
Ok, first I have to say that I am satisfied with the overall results of my solution. I was shooting for a "premium factory" upgrade for the Clarity and I think I hit 95% of my goals but for the total price I am very happy. I am also VERY happy with the fact that I lost almost no trunk space with my solution.

Woofer install, total price $210 (since I did the labor, that's parts all in, wire too). Yes, this was cheap, and a brand that, well... but for the price and fit for my install I just couldn't pass up giving it a shot.

Speaker replacements, $260 add in a few bucks misc parts and tools and I got my "new" system for under $500!
If you remove the time spent "figuring" access points, and best placement for things etc I could have done the whole project in a full day, but it took me 4 half days as that is what I had to work with. It has been a long time since I installed aftermarket stereo equipment, and I haven't been to IASCA for SQL/SPL comps since the mid 90's....

What I got out of this was a system that I will call a premium factory system similar in sound to a Bose, ELS (Acura) or other premium 10 driver 300-500 watt setup. It is not what I would call an "aftermarket" system in bass response, but I am happy and stopping here for now. The woofer solution was wired such that later upgrades in the <500 watt class would be possible if I wanted to try it. For now, my wife is giving me that look when it is time to stop playing with the new car....

Parts: JL Audio C1-650's for front and rear replacements of the factory drivers (see earlier post).
Wire wrap: http://a.co/d/3oyR9PE
The wire was from Car Toys (8awg by the foot) plus an amp install "kit" that included the remote and fuse hardware I paid about $65 for it.
This is a cool solution for the remote patch, worked great: http://a.co/d/3GhADPf
Now to reveal the woofer/amp compact combo (I know, but it's in the pictures soooo...)
Not Rockford Fosgate... Rockville! :confused::cool:;) http://a.co/d/7OLg4jC

It does hit low bass and has respectable output when you consider its SIZE and design limitations. My review on this would be that it reminds me more of the old Mass Drivers of the old days when you attached a coneless driver to chairs to help you "feel" the low bass without it actually moving air. I can feel the low notes in the seats and steering wheel almost more than hear them. It does add the low end I was missing and I think that once I spend some time tuning and tweaking it it will get better. The real issue is this, the trunk is actually pretty well isolated from the cabin, you need to displace a lot of air to get that "woofer" bass to penetrate into the cabin from the trunk. Without dual woofers or big ones with lots of moving air you are left with the "in the trunk" sound. However, for me this was enough and I am happy. It does not rattle anything in the trunk so far, and will not disturb the neighbors. It fills in the sub 120hz range I was missing (and though I need to test and don't have an RTA, seems to hit well in the low 40-60 range surprisingly). It helps that this is a sealed unit so the "range" is there even if the DBs are not. The install is very subtle and that is what I was going for. Here are the photos, feel free to ask any questions. I was able to attach the woofer so that I can still open and close the rear seat pass through without issue (both sides). Yes, it does sound more impressive with the seats forward, but...

I chose to pull the high level signal from the rear doors. This was an amazing amount of work going back in after the initial install. Wish I had done it all at once as it would have saved a lot of time. I can say that this is the harder part for running the speaker wire as to pull it back though the grommet and door to car rubber wire guide is not easy. You have to use a nylon wire-snake for audio or get creative. I have a few more photos but this should cover most of it. Again, only lost 3 inches of truck depth in a place it was less than useful in the first place.

* Oh, and yes - I ran out of wire wrap when I got to the trunk so I have a bit more to add to cover up the exposed wires you see next to the sub... tomorrow.

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Hi and just a quick question. Did you noticed any significant decrease in driving range on battery only after the upgrade? I was just wondering if the aftermarket speakers and subwoofer are as efficient at energy consumption. Please let me know. Thank you and congratz on the awesome build :)
 
Ken Sanna said:
Hi and just a quick question. Did you noticed any significant decrease in driving range on battery only after the upgrade? I was just wondering if the aftermarket speakers and subwoofer are as efficient at energy consumption. Please let me know. Thank you and congratz on the awesome build :)
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OK, not an EE (nor do I play one on TV), but I’m confidently going out on a limb here and saying that it will not. If we’re talking about just increasing the volume from say middle to high without adding an additional amplifier, then the increase in energy will be minuscule compared to the energy required for motive use, resistance heating, or even electric motors (AC, fan, etc.).
The analogy is that in a signal to noise ratio, if the noise is very very small it will be lost in the strength of the signal and be of little consequence.
I predict it will bear out one of my favorite sayings, “A difference that makes no difference is no difference.”
However I’m willing to be proved wrong by the EEs on the forum; just not by speculation.
 
Ken Sanna said:
Hi and just a quick question. Did you noticed any significant decrease in driving range on battery only after the upgrade? I was just wondering if the aftermarket speakers and subwoofer are as efficient at energy consumption. Please let me know. Thank you and congratz on the awesome build :)
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My lead foot makes far more of a difference on the range, than the sound system...
 
Adding any additional draws to an battery will decrease your range. However, I don't think it will not be enough to be noticable. I think the main concern is the capacity of your alternator and your 12v supply. Keep in mind that your audio is not a constant draw, IE: a 1kW amp can pump 1kW but it doesn't mean it's pulling 1kW. It will only do that @ peak when a note hits that, so you really take the average of your overall listening level and the type of music you're listening to. It could be only drawing less than 300w on average unless you're doing a dB competition

If you enjoy good quality audio it's definitely worth upgrading considering how easy it is to at least just replace the inside speakers.

It might be the nature of the stock amp but I find the JL C1 I put in is very harsh sounding due to the lack of power to drive the mids. The solution is to lower the mids and tweeters on the EQ while leaving the bass level at the max. This has yield a much richer sound for my setup.

At 75% level I'm still getting decent quality sound with out clipping.
 
Man, I wish I still had the hearing of y'all who have who have to fret and fritz and fix the sound of the mediocre sound system of the Clarity. At my age I don’t have to worry about it, since I can’t tell the difference any more. The ship has sadly sailed on my audiophile days due to too much rock in my formative years. However, I’m sure that a lot of younger Clarity owners will appreciate your efforts and willingness to share.

FWIW, my son’s Science Fair project that took him to the state level with a nice prize (full disclosure: very proud parent) was on demonstrating that everyone starts to lose the high frequencies by age 24 and then it just gets worse. Just Google mosquito ring tones. The kids use those to keep their teachers from hearing their phones ringing in class. Unless the teacher is just out of college, they can’t hear it but the kids can. LOL
 
This is what i did, unpluged all tweeter, removed oem Doors speaker, replaced with Polk DB+652 speakers, added a Pionner SWX2502 10" subwoofer placed behind the passenger seat driven by a Polk PA880 amp.
Very happy with the result.
 
evan124242 said:
do you happen to know where the factory amp is located?
any help would be great!
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Unless you have the Canadian version there is no factory amp. It's all part if the entertainment reciever.

The reciever/amp unit is in the dash behind the infotainment screen.
 
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