2020+ (classic) Ioniq: Low-conductivity coolant crystallizing + low-coolant level warning ...

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navguy12 said:
Am I interpreting this correctly?

My wife’s Kona is due for it three year R&R of the blue coolant in August.

Hyundai will actually do the fluid swap to BSC-2 under “warranty” when the car is brought in for the process?
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Check at your dealer, I would be surprised to hear any different considering the close proximity of our manufacture dates and mileage.
I was told it is only the supply issue why the TSB will not be performed before.
I did arrive equipped with the TSB copy, manufacture date and s/n so they could look it up on their computer to confirm.
 
electriceddy said:
Check at your dealer, I would be surprised to hear any different considering the close proximity of our manufacture dates and mileage.
I was told it is only the supply issue why the TSB will not be performed before.
I did arrive equipped with the TSB copy, manufacture date and s/n so they could look it up on their computer to confirm.
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You have a responsive dealer...

Who is your dealership; who is your contact there; can you provide his/her direct contact info?

Thanks. Cheers.
 
Spoke to my dealership today, and the service advisor and I both agreed that yes, Hyundai will be picking up the tab when we bring my wife’s car in for the three year swap of the blue coolant sometime this August.

He told me that there had been a bunch of dash board warnings on these Kona EVs when the very hot weather hit Ottawa a few weeks ago…and he told me “he” just did “another one (TSB procedure) this morning”.

So I don’t even have to be a guinea pig.

Tip of the hat to @KiwiME and @electriceddy
 
My coolant was changed during my battery recall a year ago resetting my maintenance schedule. Do you think that means I might not need to worry about this recall?
 
Wildeyed said:
My coolant was changed during my battery recall a year ago resetting my maintenance schedule. Do you think that means I might not need to worry about this recall?
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My advice: go see your service advisor, have him pull up your VIN on his computer and have him search to see if this particular “service campaign” (in the words of my service advisor) is part of a pending “update service items next time the car is brought in for any routine visit” for your particular VIN.
 
I gotta wonder here -- what makes coolant specifically "low conductivity"? How does the blue or green stuff
compare to, say, the pink HOAT "long-life" stuff I used to put in the Prius? Some replacements in Konas are
apparently getting that instead of BSC-2. What are the risks, considering that coolant isn't supposed to be
in direct contact with the electrical system's conductors in the first place?

Frankly I'd be more concerned about long-term corrosion protection. As well as having stuff that won't gunk
itself up over time.

_H*
 
There were Korean automotive media articles published some years ago about some EVs unexpectedly bursting into flames some time after enduring manufacturer's crash tests, traced to coolant leakage shorting the cells. Coincidentally or not, while investigating the cause of Kona battery fires Hyundai/Kia changed to the LC coolant mid-production of the 2020 Kona. While unsuccessfully trying to find those articles online I ran across this document describing the ID4's engineering.

Rather than use a LC coolant VW designed this problem out in the ID4, as Hyundai/Kia have in the new Niro, presumably the upcoming Kona and I recently heard the latest Ioniq 5. I'm not sure how many other EVs do this or if any others use LC coolant.

It's not clear if this is a major real-world risk but it's certainly been clear that the LC coolant is far more trouble than it's worth.

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So I went to pop the cap off my coolant reservoir yesterday and peer around inside to see if I could detect
any evidence of crystallization, and I *cannot* seem to get the cap off. It clicked past the "fully on" detent
easily enough, but then about half a turn counterclockwise from there, the cap seems to bind so hard I
cannot turn it any farther. It's supposed to just be a simple threaded cap, right? It didn't seem to rise up
at all during this, either. I don't seem to have any service doc on this specifically, there's no hint that
there's anything special about it.

Someone willing to investigate on their own car? Does your cap come off easily?

_H*
 
hobbit said:
So I went to pop the cap off my coolant reservoir yesterday and peer around inside to see if I could detect
any evidence of crystallization, and I *cannot* seem to get the cap off. It clicked past the "fully on" detent
easily enough, but then about half a turn counterclockwise from there, the cap seems to bind so hard I
cannot turn it any farther. It's supposed to just be a simple threaded cap, right? It didn't seem to rise up
at all during this, either. I don't seem to have any service doc on this specifically, there's no hint that
there's anything special about it.

Someone willing to investigate on their own car? Does your cap come off easily?

_H*
Click to expand...
You need to turn it clockwise to open.
 
hobbit said:
So I went to pop the cap off my coolant reservoir yesterday and peer around inside to see if I could detect
any evidence of crystallization, and I *cannot* seem to get the cap off. It clicked past the "fully on" detent
easily enough, but then about half a turn counterclockwise from there, the cap seems to bind so hard I
cannot turn it any farther. It's supposed to just be a simple threaded cap, right? It didn't seem to rise up
at all during this, either. I don't seem to have any service doc on this specifically, there's no hint that
there's anything special about it.

Someone willing to investigate on their own car? Does your cap come off easily?

_H*
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Had the same issue last year;)
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Well, that's just warped, but worked. Thanks all! Can't see anything obviously untoward down
the hole, so who knows. Researching which local dealers might be competent enough to do
a replacement...

_H*
 
Just back from dropping off my 2020 Kona EV Limited with the recurring "Refill Inverter Coolant" message (for past 3-4 months). The TSB might be: T9E recall 23-01-049H... the service manager is out and his assistant mentioned it now has an official accepted "recall" in effect, and gave me this number when I inquired. So, now I'm hoping to determine how to find that TSB to read it further. If anyone has suggestions, I'd love to know how to read up on it. I'm used the the doggone "ding" that repeats ad nauseum, so now want more info!
 
hobbit said:
Well, that's just warped, but worked. Thanks all! Can't see anything obviously untoward down
the hole, so who knows. Researching which local dealers might be competent enough to do
a replacement...

_H*
Click to expand...
Bahstahn! used to pahk my cah in Hahvad yod, too!
 
hobbit said:
Well, that's just warped, but worked. Thanks all! Can't see anything obviously untoward down
the hole, so who knows. Researching which local dealers might be competent enough to do
a replacement...

_H*
Click to expand...
Well, now you know the qualifying question to ask the dealer's service staff: "Tell me, how do you normally remove the coolant pressure cap?"
 
OzKona said:
My April 2021 Kona (blue coolant) is due for an annual service. I've had no coolant issues or warnings.
My dealer told me at booking time they need the car all day to do this TSB which, going by the contents, is probably justified.
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I have an appointment for this work (2021 Kona Preferred, with blue coolant, 51,000km+ and 3 years ownership). Dealer quoted one hour labour +parts C$888.87 taxes included.
 
Wildeyed said:
My coolant was changed during my battery recall a year ago resetting my maintenance schedule. Do you think that means I might not need to worry about this recall?
Click to expand...

I would double check with the dealer. Get paper/electronic record and keep it. The last thing you want is an argument with Hyundai if a warranty issue comes up. This could be a big $$$ expense and/or a big impact on the resale value of your car. I sent all this info to my dealer - before my upcoming coolant replacement at the end of August.
 
Lars said:
I would double check with the dealer. Get paper/electronic record and keep it. The last thing you want is an argument with Hyundai if a warranty issue comes up. This could be a big $$$ expense and/or a big impact on the resale value of your car. I sent all this info to my dealer - before my upcoming coolant replacement at the end of August.
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@Wildeyed car is pre-TSB date and uses the regular green (or pink now) coolant (not low conductivity) which I believe only requires replacement~ 120K Kms
 
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