2018 Honda Clarity Plug-In Hybrid Battery Failure at 108k Miles – $10,000 Repair Quote, Honda Customer Care doesn't care

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From what I have seen in Clarity forum discussions on this topic, I have yet to come across a warranty replacement that was approved solely under the 36.6Ah policy, without an engine code and/or accompanying symptoms.

The P0A7F and P1DC7 combination appears to be the primary basis, and by far the most common reason, on which Honda authorizes battery pack replacements. This leads me to believe that the vehicle’s computer ultimately determines whether the degradation is considered abnormal.
 
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Here’s another theory. The Clarity has an A and B battery. Each has a capacity of 27.5Ah When connected in parallel the capacity is doubled to 55Ah. Is it possible that the dealer has measured, or provided, the capacity of half of the battery? Also, was a 12V battery recently installed, or disconnected for a period of time?

It’s been a while since I’ve seen one of those diagnostic reports, but I recall that there was separate information provided for A and B. We could be looking at an inaccurate reading due to a 12V reset combined with a serious lack of communication between the dealer and owner.

Have there been any Codes thrown, alerts shown on the display, noticeably decreased EV range or loss of performance from the vehicle? Regardless, if you’re going to pursue a battery warranty claim it would benefit you to have a copy of the 36.6Ah document to show the dealer and include in any correspondence with Honda.

Why they would say that your 2018 VIN isn’t covered makes about as much sense as the L2 EVSE or usage habits claim. Keep in mind that Honda only provides a L1 EVSE with the vehicle and there are no cautions or warnings in the manual about not using it.
 
I can confirm that at least in our case battery replacement under warranty was initiated by the check engine & power system warning lights and associated codes - the actual battery capacity was, to my knowledge, never measured directly.
 
We got the Jeep back with a new HV battery a few weeks ago. Within a couple of days Electric mode became unavailable. The explanation on the display was that it was because cabin heating/cooling was on. It wasn’t. We scheduled an appointment and it turned out the battery heating and cooling module needed replacing. All was well for about a week when the same issue surfaced again. In this case cabin heating was on. After turning it off Electric mode became available. I then turned cabin heating on after which it continued to operate in Electric mode. It hasn’t occurred since, however, I do not consider the vehicle to be functioning properly if a call for cabin heating/cooling knocks Electric mode off-line. It won’t be our concern much longer.

I also received correspondence from FCA that the battery is now covered for Unlimited time and mileage, with conditions. Those conditions are that should any one of 5 codes appear, after the expiration of the original battery warranty, FCA has the option to limit the coverage to the cost of the battery replacement or the value of the vehicle (NADA retail) at the time, whichever is less.
 
Landshark said:
We got the Jeep back with a new HV battery a few weeks ago. Within a couple of days Electric mode became unavailable. The explanation on the display was that it was because cabin heating/cooling was on. It wasn’t. We scheduled an appointment and it turned out the battery heating and cooling module needed replacing. All was well for about a week when the same issue surfaced again. In this case cabin heating was on. After turning it off Electric mode became available. I then turned cabin heating on after which it continued to operate in Electric mode. It hasn’t occurred since, however, I do not consider the vehicle to be functioning properly if a call for cabin heating/cooling knocks Electric mode off-line. It won’t be our concern much longer.

I also received correspondence from FCA that the battery is now covered for Unlimited time and mileage, with conditions. Those conditions are that should any one of 5 codes appear, after the expiration of the original battery warranty, FCA has the option to limit the coverage to the cost of the battery replacement or the value of the vehicle (NADA retail) at the time, whichever is less.
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Does the Unlimited battery coverage transfer to the next unfortunate owner?
 
Landshark said:
There was nothing in the wording that suggested it would not transfer to another owner, so I’d say yes.
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That warranty will make your Jeep easier to sell to an individual. If you instead sell to Carvana, I hope they don't charge for the halo.

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We’ll probably decline the halo option. If you’re interested it is located in Michigan and includes an extra set of wheels with Blizzak snow tires that had very little use last winter. It’s set up to tow behind another vehicle as well as being able to tow a trailer. Did I mention it has a new battery?
 
If I may make so bold as to steer the thread back to the OP's topic......I've encountered the codes mentioned in Andy's "First Diagnostic" several times this winter, along with the dimly-lit "Power System" caution light. On first encounter, my battery capacity had gradually degraded to something (unremembered) just north of 38 AH, maybe 39 and a (small) fraction, as measured by the "Carscanner" app and ELM327 OBD module.

Upon code-clearing, battery capacity was reset to 55 AH and EV range on the GoM instantly jumped from 23, or thereabouts, to 37. I encountered the codes in HV and Sport mode, about 30-40 minutes into a 70+mph hwy transit. Cleared after exiting the freeway, spending a few minutes in city/neighborhood driving and shutting down for the code-clear. Having begun the journey in HV mode (Sport departed at code debut) I was showing a typical 87-89% SoC per the App. Best recollection of that morning is that I began fully charged, overnight on the Lvl2 charger showing 31 miles of EV range.

Subsequent full charges resulted in 45-47 miles of EV range on the GoM. "Wait a minute, AHol" you may be saying to yourself, if not to another....."Can't possibly be accurate..you can't "Restore" the battery by resetting the codes!" And I would answer you, "OF COURSE it is not ACCURATE, it never has been....but it was NO MORE INACCURATE than before the reset." Highway runs at 65 or 70+ mph will deplete EV range at 2x+ actual statute miles driven, whereas stop-n-go city work <35 mph will get you 1.25-1.5 statute miles for each mile of EV range. Same before/after reset.

Codes returned a few weeks later under near identical conditions: Highway, 65+ mph run on a sub-30F day. Identical experience after shutdown and code clear. I think it happened one more time after that. Wasn't quite as cold, but not what I'd call "warm" either. Now that NTX has warmed up a bit, it is not unusual to see 48-49 mi EV range on a full charge. Battery Capacity has decayed to 50.54 AH since last code-clear. Not sure...maybe a month or two ago. I normally charge LVL2 @16A, but last couple of weeks, have been charging at 32A.

FWIW, car is a 2019 Touring model with 180,500 miles. I obtained it in 2022 with about 96K on the odo.

Andy, you could do a lot worse than splurging $30 for the OBDII module and $5 for the CarScanner app, both recommended in the Battery Capacity thread and clearing your codes. At worst, they would return immediately, along with the same driveability issues and you'd be out about $40.

For grins and giggles, I had the car at Norm Reeves Honda Superstore in NRH, TX a couple weeks ago for Oil Change and Tire rotation and specifically requested a quote (I distinctly said "Cost AND timing") for hybrid battery replacement. I didn't get any response on the "timing" issue, and they did not itemize parts and labor, but did come in at $10,688.39, or very close to the $10,700 quoted in previous posts, this thread.
 
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