PSA: Recall for HV Battery
- Thread starter inferno10
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Is that for real (you didn't include a winking emoji)? I can't imagine BMW allowing that to happen.
CuriousGeorge
Well-Known Member
It certainly doesn't make a lot of sense. Either the drivetrain can safely spin that fast, or it can't.
If the former, why the 94 (?) mph limit in the first place?
If the latter, why remove the limit now?
So if I blow up my car because MINI removed the limit by mistake, is it still covered under warranty?
endquote
Well-Known Member
How else do you think the battery will discharge to 30% quickly?
(Yes, was joking.)
pictsidhe
Well-Known Member
It doesn't need to be discharged rapidly. It's a weak short. The fault will take quite some time to cause a raging inferno. Sorry, 'thermal event'. Or as my dealer told me the other day: 'overheating'.
pictsidhe
Well-Known Member
Giving the money to a TV evangelist would likely be more effective for extinguishing a battery fire.
I think the following:
some sealants/glue/whatever are not working 100% as intended, maybe it’s just a batch or maybe it’s for every car out there, when water/moisture penetrates those sealants some kind of shorts are produced, causing errors on the bms system and slowly increasing the temperature of the cells, when that temperature reaches a critical point due to many consecutive shorts/errors battery catches fire
BMW engineers must have reproduced the way this can occur and calculated the rate at wich that temperature can increase so knowing that they just need to cool at least the same amount of temperature on a given time. They must have thought of a way to cool the battery pack using the stored energy in the battery , using the battery cooling system I suppose.
if the battery is heating at a rate of XCº per hour/minute we just need to cool down that same amount or more.
They must have considered all the other things that can heat the battery like driving aggressively etc.
It’s like when you heat the car by driving aggressive and the car prevents you from using power from the motor, because battery needs to cool down before, it happened to me several times and the bms cooled the battery “quite fast”, so they are doing the same non stop until battery reaches a safe point 30% or less.
What I don’t really know is why they state, to 30% or less, maybe when battery is on low charge safe mode or something like that something changes on any condition and the overheating problem is not going to occur anymore.
if that’s the case I only see them replacing those that really fail, even many others can be defective and or give problems or not in the future. Maybe if time passes and the majority resist without problems during the 8 year warranty…… maybe if they fail after that they don’t have to pay for the repair, but I’m not sure about that.
does all this make sense?
Sorry for my poor english, Im from Spain
some sealants/glue/whatever are not working 100% as intended, maybe it’s just a batch or maybe it’s for every car out there, when water/moisture penetrates those sealants some kind of shorts are produced, causing errors on the bms system and slowly increasing the temperature of the cells, when that temperature reaches a critical point due to many consecutive shorts/errors battery catches fire
BMW engineers must have reproduced the way this can occur and calculated the rate at wich that temperature can increase so knowing that they just need to cool at least the same amount of temperature on a given time. They must have thought of a way to cool the battery pack using the stored energy in the battery , using the battery cooling system I suppose.
if the battery is heating at a rate of XCº per hour/minute we just need to cool down that same amount or more.
They must have considered all the other things that can heat the battery like driving aggressively etc.
It’s like when you heat the car by driving aggressive and the car prevents you from using power from the motor, because battery needs to cool down before, it happened to me several times and the bms cooled the battery “quite fast”, so they are doing the same non stop until battery reaches a safe point 30% or less.
What I don’t really know is why they state, to 30% or less, maybe when battery is on low charge safe mode or something like that something changes on any condition and the overheating problem is not going to occur anymore.
if that’s the case I only see them replacing those that really fail, even many others can be defective and or give problems or not in the future. Maybe if time passes and the majority resist without problems during the 8 year warranty…… maybe if they fail after that they don’t have to pay for the repair, but I’m not sure about that.
does all this make sense?
Sorry for my poor english, Im from Spain
pictsidhe
Well-Known Member
Yes, it will. There has so far been one Mini SE, worldwide, which has suffered a raging inferno. (Aka thermal event). Terribly, terribly dangerous compared to most other EVs, let along ICE cars!!!
teslarati97
Well-Known Member
Updated to 002.176.001 - lost all my basic & expert mode settings including the much beloved AM radio.
My software was updated this morning - took less than 3 hours. The update was specifically for the "thermal event". I expected the update to undo all of my preferences (like the previous update did), but nothing seems to have been changed. (Note: I've not done any Bimmercode.) They did an inspection and a video of the rest of the car. The loaner was a '25 ice. Made me very glad to have an EV.
polyphonic
Well-Known Member
Likely much less potential for carnage with the small battery? That’s got to be an advantage of a light/efficient EV.
Our’s is still sitting out of state with 40% charge. No ability or desire to fly back to take it to the dealer. They haven’t even contacted iirc. Only found out on here. I wonder if they would travel to the house and collect the car which is outside… on the other hand, 40% is likely similar to 30% in terms of the thermal event issue.
Our’s is still sitting out of state with 40% charge. No ability or desire to fly back to take it to the dealer. They haven’t even contacted iirc. Only found out on here. I wonder if they would travel to the house and collect the car which is outside… on the other hand, 40% is likely similar to 30% in terms of the thermal event issue.
SameGuy
Well-Known Member
Yup. I got it all back quickly, and changed a few I'd been procrastinating about – like defaulting to Mid mode again, after spending two years realizing almost every drive I'd rather be... in Mid. Oh, and ENET makes it wayyy less tedious.
teslarati97
Well-Known Member
Yeah had to pretend to be an i3 to make acoustic pedestrian noise reverse only. I just took my time and had Daft Punk's Random Access Memories 10th Anniversary (FLAC) playing in the background.
Today, I was listening to AM sportstalk about the Detroit Lions' overtime victory that kept me up very late last night.
Activating the AM radio is the only reason I bought Bimmercode. I'll be looking for my OBDCheck BLE soon after I get my software update Thursday.
It's been years since I activated the AM radio. Can you confirm if these steps I wrote down are correct (or point out needed corrections)? TIA
MINI Cooper SE AM Tuner Activation Procedure
- Download/Install/Purchase Bimmercode on phone
- Purchase OBDII adapter: VEEPEEK OBDCheck BLE
- Plug OBDCheck BLE into OBDII port above the left footrest
- Turn on the SE
- Turn off lights, heating, ventilation etc.
- In Bluetooth settings, pair the adapter (phone wanted 16 digits, but 4 worked)
- Turn on Airplane mode (which turns off wi-fi)—skip this step to use Bluetooth
- Disconnect the phone in the SE’s iDrive settings (COM > Mobile devices > Select phone > Delete device) –not Disconnect in MINI
- Open the settings in the BimmerCode app and select OBDCheck BLE adapter
- Select MINI from the displayed list and tap ”OK”—Bimmercode identifies ICUs slowly
- Select Headunit from the control unit list
- Activate expert mode by selection ”Expert mode” (if necessary)
- Select section 3002
- Select RADIO_BAND_KW
- Click active
- Tap ”Code” to direct Bimmercode to make the code changes
- After coding restore the connection to your phone in the SE’s iDrive settings
teslarati97
Well-Known Member
I think you need both RADIO_BAND_KW and MW. It didn't show up on the band button when I did MW only at first.
After getting an ENET cable, I'd still need a USB-to-Ethernet adapter for my Android phone, right? Or is there a way to run a cable from the OBDII port directly to my phone's a USB-C port?