Newbie here, wife getting her 2021 Kona (preferred) six months earlier than expected.

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Today was the first 12 month routine maintenance on my wife's 2021 Kona EV.

Discussion items beyond the "normal" list of inspections due at this time:

Cabin air filter: the filter was pristine looking and my practice is to use a mini vacuum attachment (like a small drinking straw) and vacuum out each pleat and then re-install the unit for another year service. The R&R procedure is very easy compared to my TM3.

Brake inspection: the car sees service in severe winter conditions, therefor I remove all the brake pads and re-lubricate all the points on the pad backing plates and calipers that require brake caliper lubrication.

The rear brake caliper dis-assembly (with the e-brake module) was a non-issue as the caliper body was removed in the same manner as was employed for the front brakes; of course one has to be careful with the rear caliper body not stressing the flexible rubber brake line OR the wire loom for the e-brake module.

IMG_0886.webp

One "gottcha" to speak of when removing the rear brake pads from the caliper carrier:

IMG_0887.webp

None of the online videos (or the linked shop instructions below) mention that if one wants to temporarily remove the current rear brake pads, the "pad retainers" one way locking barb (all four brakes have these, but the fronts were not an issue) will make the job impossible unless one pulls the bottom of the pad such that the barb is "bent backwards"...just be sure to straighten the barb with needle nose pliers prior to re-lubricating and re-installing the lower pad retainer.

https://www.hkona.com/rear_disc_brake_repair_procedures-1096.html
 
Strange thing happened yesterday:

I set the car up to only charge between 1900 - 0700 (to avoid peak charges) when we took delivery 15 months ago.

For the past 15 months, with no drama, the car could be connected to any (home a.c.) charger and it wouldn’t start to charge until 1900 (or if we pressed the orange button at the charge port to override the specified charge window).

Yesterday, I plugged the car in around 1230 and it immediately began to charge!

After forcing it to stop charging, I had to wade into the charge settings and noted that my 1900 - 0700 charge time specification had disappeared.

They have now been reset.

Has this happened to anyone else, where the charge time settings somehow get erased?

Thanks. Cheers.
 
navguy12 said:
Thanks. I’ll check the linked thread.

FWIW, there is no blue link account on this vehicle.
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My charging preferences were reset as well. I’m not sure if it’s the same issue (I don’t recall if I had ever set a climate preference, and don’t use the charge timing). It’s been a few weeks since I last charged so I’m not sure if it’s the same issue or related to recently being at the dealership for service
 
Based on an abundance of caution, I am going to perform some non scheduled "preventative" maintenance on my wife's Kona EV.

Her car has 8,700 km and has been in service for 15 months and three weeks.

Background:

The owners manual, when discussing the reduction gear fluid, only mentions "inspecting" at 30 month intervals, with a recommendation to remove and replace the fluid at 120,000 km.

I plan to swap out the reduction gear fluid within the next two weeks, pending acquisition of two liters of the specified 70W GL-4 reduction gear fluid and a replacement drain plug that is magnetic (Hyundai magnetic drain plug part number 00810 17121).

These following links will provide context:

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...pair-issues-and-fixes.7097/page-7#post-151456

https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/2019-kona-ev-motor-noise-issue.12076/

I'll only post any unusual/unique observations here once the job is done; otherwise one can learn all about the details by referring to the two links above.

Many thanks to the explorers leading the way, including (but not limited to) @KiwiME and @OzKona
 
navguy12 said:
Based on an abundance of caution, I am going to perform some non scheduled "preventative" maintenance on my wife's Kona EV.

Her car has 8,700 km and has been in service for 15 months and three weeks.

Background:

The owners manual, when discussing the reduction gear fluid, only mentions "inspecting" at 30 month intervals, with a recommendation to remove and replace the fluid at 120,000 km.

I plan to swap out the reduction gear fluid within the next two weeks, pending acquisition of two liters of the specified 70W GL-4 reduction gear fluid and a replacement drain plug that is magnetic (Hyundai magnetic drain plug part number 00810 17121).

These following links will provide context:

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...pair-issues-and-fixes.7097/page-7#post-151456

https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/2019-kona-ev-motor-noise-issue.12076/

I'll only post any unusual/unique observations here once the job is done; otherwise one can learn all about the details by referring to the two links above.

Many thanks to the explorers leading the way, including (but not limited to) @KiwiME and @OzKona
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Update to the above: I plan to do this small project today.

The planned Hyundai magnetic drain plugs turned out to not be magnetic, so I will be using rare earth magnets placed on the outside of the current drain/fill plugs.

In this shot, this is the closest one of the magnets can be placed next to the remaining stack due to the repulsive force between like poles:

F5EE375A-C0B5-43DB-A864-52751258F1D9.webp
 
A strange thing happened yesterday when the car started to charge immediately, instead of waiting for the (set) times to charge (1900 - 0700), when my wife plugged her car into her son’s 32 amp home setup at 1530.

After a 20 minute (remote telephone session) walk through of what should have been a normal setting on her dash (for charging times, as have routinely been used for the past 18 months), we ascertained that, for whatever reason, all the times and settings to only allow charging between 1900 & 0700 were “off” and zeroed out.

Since the charging settings do not present themselves on the user interface whenever the charge port door is opened, I’m faced with telling my wife that she has to double check the timer settings prior to turning her vehicle off.

Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
navguy12 said:
A strange thing happened yesterday when the car started to charge immediately, instead of waiting for the (set) times to charge (1900 - 0700), when my wife plugged her car into her son’s 32 amp home setup at 1530.

After a 20 minute (remote telephone session) walk through of what should have been a normal setting on her dash (for charging times, as have routinely been used for the past 18 months), we ascertained that, for whatever reason, all the times and settings to only allow charging between 1900 & 0700 were “off” and zeroed out.

Since the charging settings do not present themselves on the user interface whenever the charge port door is opened, I’m faced with telling my wife that she has to double check the timer settings prior to turning her vehicle off.

Any thoughts? Thanks.
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I reported somewhere here in the forum that the early charging thing happened to me once as soon as I plugged in. I never found an answer as to why.
I will report that it hasn't happened again and that, unlike your wife's car, mine did not erase the presets and they remain unchanged since. Gremlins?
 
Wildeyed said:
I reported somewhere here in the forum that the early charging thing happened to me once as soon as I plugged in. I never found an answer as to why.
I will report that it hasn't happened again and that, unlike your wife's car, mine did not erase the presets and they remain unchanged since. Gremlins?
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Hopefully a one off event.

At least my wife now knows where those settings are and what their significance is.
 
Back in Aug 2020, right after my wife took delivery of her Kona EV, I set things up for her so that she could just get into the car and drive it without any pre-drive drama sessions.

Note: Since day one, she uses the “normal” instrument cluster (not “sport” or “eco”).

One of the items I set up for her was manual setting brake regen at level “3” (the icon is blue with the three arrow icons).

Anyhow, about three weeks ago, she complained that she had little brake regen.

I checked things out, and the car was set to manual setting brake regen level “1”.

I showed her how to use the paddle to increase the setting back to “3”.

On her next drive cycle, she complained again that the brake regen was reduced and, sure enough, the car was back into brake regen setting “1”.

Every time she goes for a drive now, she has to play with the paddle to force the brake regen level to go from”1” to “3”.

In other words, what used to be a “saved” setting (brake regen level 3) is no longer saved and every time she goes to drive her car, there is now this extra step to set the brake regen back to “3”.

I’ve been re-reading the manual numerous times, but I don’t know what we are doing wrong.

Why is the brake regen setting always defaulting back to “1” when the car is restarted? It never did this until about three weeks ago.

To confirm: she doesn’t like and/or want to use the “auto” brake regen setting (white icon until it locks onto a radar target) she prefers the manual (blue icon at all times) setting at “3”.

Thanks.
 
navguy12 said:
Back in Aug 2020, right after my wife took delivery of her Kona EV, I set things up for her so that she could just get into the car and drive it without any pre-drive drama sessions.

Note: Since day one, she uses the “normal” instrument cluster (not “sport” or “eco”).

One of the items I set up for her was manual setting brake regen at level “3” (the icon is blue with the three arrow icons).

Anyhow, about three weeks ago, she complained that she had little brake regen.

I checked things out, and the car was set to manual setting brake regen level “1”.

I showed her how to use the paddle to increase the setting back to “3”.

On her next drive cycle, she complained again that the brake regen was reduced and, sure enough, the car was back into brake regen setting “1”.

Every time she goes for a drive now, she has to play with the paddle to force the brake regen level to go from”1” to “3”.

In other words, what used to be a “saved” setting (brake regen level 3) is no longer saved and every time she goes to drive her car, there is now this extra step to set the brake regen back to “3”.

I’ve been re-reading the manual numerous times, but I don’t know what we are doing wrong.

Why is the brake regen setting always defaulting back to “1” when the car is restarted? It never did this until about three weeks ago.

To confirm: she doesn’t like and/or want to use the “auto” brake regen setting (white icon until it locks onto a radar target) she prefers the manual (blue icon at all times) setting at “3”.

Thanks.
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Sounds like the default setting reverted back to 1, have you had the car into the dealer where perchance the upgraded the software? I traded in my Kona for an Ioniq 5 so it has been a while since I had to mess with this, but my recollection is that you can set the default regen level of each of the drive modes somewhere from the settings function on the infotainment screen. BTW, the RWD Ioniq 5's cannot have the default settings for regen changed - we are stuck with level 3 - which would work in your wife's case but not in mine ;)
 
MSimpsonNJ said:
Sounds like the default setting reverted back to 1, have you had the car into the dealer where perchance the upgraded the software? I traded in my Kona for an Ioniq 5 so it has been a while since I had to mess with this, but my recollection is that you can set the default regen level of each of the drive modes somewhere from the settings function on the infotainment screen. BTW, the RWD Ioniq 5's cannot have the default settings for regen changed - we are stuck with level 3 - which would work in your wife's case but not in mine ;)
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:) Cheers.

The car has not been to the dealer since sometime in early 2021, so the software hasn’t been touched.

I guess we’ll just grin and bear it until/unless we stumble upon some action that gives us back level 3 as the default.
 
navguy12 said:
:) Cheers.

The car has not been to the dealer since sometime in early 2021, so the software hasn’t been touched.

I guess we’ll just grin and bear it until/unless we stumble upon some action that gives us back level 3 as the default.
Click to expand...

Try looking at the settings for each drive mode. Think you'll find the settings you need in there
 
navguy12 said:
Back in Aug 2020, right after my wife took delivery of her Kona EV, I set things up for her so that she could just get into the car and drive it without any pre-drive drama sessions.

Note: Since day one, she uses the “normal” instrument cluster (not “sport” or “eco”).

One of the items I set up for her was manual setting brake regen at level “3” (the icon is blue with the three arrow icons).

Anyhow, about three weeks ago, she complained that she had little brake regen.

I checked things out, and the car was set to manual setting brake regen level “1”.

I showed her how to use the paddle to increase the setting back to “3”.

On her next drive cycle, she complained again that the brake regen was reduced and, sure enough, the car was back into brake regen setting “1”.

Every time she goes for a drive now, she has to play with the paddle to force the brake regen level to go from”1” to “3”.

In other words, what used to be a “saved” setting (brake regen level 3) is no longer saved and every time she goes to drive her car, there is now this extra step to set the brake regen back to “3”.

I’ve been re-reading the manual numerous times, but I don’t know what we are doing wrong.

Why is the brake regen setting always defaulting back to “1” when the car is restarted? It never did this until about three weeks ago.

To confirm: she doesn’t like and/or want to use the “auto” brake regen setting (white icon until it locks onto a radar target) she prefers the manual (blue icon at all times) setting at “3”.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Don't pull and hold the left regen paddle. Pull it and let it go immediately. It should go back to level 3. This is the only way I drive. Why use my brakes? when I can use the engine plus gain EV Mileage.
 
BaylorBob said:
This is the only way I drive. Why use my brakes? when I can use the engine plus gain EV Mileage.
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Nope, the paddles are just an optional-use accessory which provides no benefit above and beyond traditional driving techniques.
The footbrake uses regen only, except for panic stops and below about 5 mph. That's why the rotors can get rusty through lack of use (and the pads last for ever)...
 
hieronymous said:
The footbrake uses regen only, except for panic stops and below about 5 mph
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(Not to drift off topic)
Which is probably the reason for the smaller calipers in the front, with no regen accumulated in the rear, they rely on the pads/mechanical action of the calipers themselves.
 
electriceddy said:
(Not to drift off topic)
Which is probably the reason for the smaller calipers in the front, with no regen accumulated in the rear, they rely on the pads/mechanical action of the calipers themselves.
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Yeah, nah, definitely off topic..:D
With the battery pack "generating" a 50:50 weight distribution split, the rear braking needs to be substantial to minimise dramatic oversteer..
 
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ericy said:
The car should top up the 12V battery automatically - there really isn't an option to turn this on/off. For a few people something is going wrong - possibly related to the EVSE. There is a recent BMS software update that in theory correct a couple of issues in this area.
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Two weeks ago I had the VCULDC update to U.S. version EOSKNM-NS8-D000, but it didn't fix my 12v problem. I'll post details in that thread at some point.

navguy12 said:
If the 12 volt battery dies, can one still access the interior of the car to pop the hood to service the battery?
electriceddy said:
If the 12 V battery dies, you can open the drivers door with the key hidden in the FOB and open the front hood with a mechanical handle.
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That's only necessary if the doors were locked. My 12v failures have all been in my garage, with the doors unlocked. However the rear hatch does need 12v to open. I keep a small 12v jumper pack in the cargo area, up against the rear seatback so it's accessible when the hatch doesn't open.

Since you like measuring things, you might enjoy installing a BM2 battery monitor, either now or if you do run into the 12v problem.
 
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