The car really should have a very clear button that says "stop charging now".
CCS may be daunting to handle for your wife compared with SC,v2.Hope Tesla brings out the CCS adapter*Today, we did a "round robin" for the sole purpose of having my wife learn how to use a DC fast charger.
Prior to departure, we topped up to 100%.
Upon arrival at the "Ivy Charge" level 3 EVSE in Carleton Place, ON, we had 48% remaining (52% used outbound):
View attachment 10385
We only "needed" about 5%, but we ended up staying plugged in until we hit 70% (as we had a Mc-lunch):
View attachment 10386
This amount cost $CAD 8.79 (all in), for a rate of $CAD 0.47 per kWh.
When we got home, we had 20% remaining (50% used for the return trip):
View attachment 10387
The conditions were no wind, -1C, mostly bare and dry roads and a speed of 90 kph.
So, "102%" of capacity got us 383.7 km:
View attachment 10388
A few observations/questions:
1. The foot well area of the front passenger seat has cool air intruding at/around the shroud that houses the HVAC fan. I am contemplating fashioning and installing an ad hoc insulator to block this cool air. The HVAC was producing the correct heat and one could feel the heat being discharged from the appropriate heater vents just below the glove box, but the area next to the fire wall was definitely cold. Is this common with these cars?
2. When we got home, the battery was showing 20% but changed to 19% about 15 minutes later (I suspect the pack was starting
Thanks.
Curious if you’ve seen this video or not? He does a pretty good job at explaining the EVSE and how it communicates with your car.
Make a note at about the 15:45 mark.
Cheers.CCS may be daunting to handle for your wife compared with SC,v2.Hope Tesla brings out the CCS adapter*
Did you see 70kW speed ?
How does she like the ACC versus AP2?
Passenger footwell,haven't noticed,but the hvac fan seems to permanently blow in some air despite being off,and the vent being closed.Resolved for the most part by closing vents,and pointing it away from the driver towards the door.
Curious how your Model 3 compares with the Kona electric as you experience the first winter with its heat pump.I think it's better because of the heat pump.The Kona is efficient,it has about a 30% range loss in the winter with below 0C,can be less with pre conditioning.The Y I tested was pretty good with highway driving above speed limit,and the hvac on as it has a heat pump.
Here is my solution:I'm still thinking this one out. I suspect I will build an ad hoc shroud to insulate that whole housing that holds the HVAC fan. I'm almost thinking, because this is a heat pump system, that some portion of the system that becomes the suction/low side (when asked to heat me instead of cool me) is "conditioning" the airflow prior to the HVAC fan and evaporator core. The whole housing just feels cold soaked. I must think on this for a few days...
My back tells me you must have had a fun time getting in thereHere is my solution:
I took a de-commissioned padded workout mat and after some rudimentary measurements, cut it and installed it in place as shown:
View attachment 10401
It is friction fit behind the center console side trim, the top edge of the floor pan carpet where it meets the fire wall and behind the outboard kick plate trim.
It is suspended in place using 3M double sided automotive trim tape and various hard points including but not limited to the frames of the holes for the heat duct outlets, the HVAC fan shroud and the structural metal bar at the base of the glove box.
Nothing is seen from any normal perspectives:
View attachment 10402
...and for some reasonMy back tells me you must have had a fun time getting in therelet us know how well it solves the issue.
I have found the natural vampire drain rate when at 8C is 17.25 Wh/day.Our brand new Kona with a mileage of 8km (100% charged) was parked from December 18 to January 5, but the temperature did not drop below + 5 ° C. After boarding, I still found a full 100% charge. I suppose in severe frosts you can expect problems with the 12V battery rather than with the high voltage battery. But I am waiting impatiently for answers from those who tested the problem under the conditions you are asking about.
Pretty darn close to navguy12 vampire drain post findings. 17.25*30/64000*100=.8%My car was in the shop outside for the month of November unplugged and lost 1%.
Winter Mode on,it "pre conditions" your DC to increase speed because it's "warmed up." Cost, range* I would just plug into 120V to keep the car conditioned at night when it drops below 0C,with [click thread] winter mode on when idle. Pre condition before you use it during the day locally,and before a longer drive when away.When driving the long distance,turn it off to get as much range as possible since the battery should be warm by the time you use DCFC.My wife is departing on her first solo long range trip with the Kona, in two weeks, to visit her family in eastern Ottawa.
Since she bought the car, it has spent every night in our heated garage.
However, the Kona will be parked outside for a total of six days...I'm sure the odd run to the local grocery store will be part of the routine.
Being parked outside, exposed to outside winter temps (let's say -20C for discussion sake), she asked me (essentially), "How much vampire drain per day can (she) expect?".
I told her that unlike my TM3, I have no data points on a Kona's vampire drain is when parked out in the cold.
We do run the Kona with the (can't remember the exact term) user selectable winter battery conditioning option.
My questions to the community:
Thanks.
- If we leave the battery winter conditioning option "on", how much battery SOC could be expected to be "lost" in 24 hours at typical cold winter temperatures,
- What if we turn battery winter condition option "off", how much SOC would be lost every 24 hours, and
- If I instruct her to simply leave the car plugged in for the six day period, will the system automatically top itself back up to the set point (of 90%) every evening (we set it to charge only after 1900 daily)?
Excellent. I'll set her up to 100% and leave Winter Mode on. Cheers.I've charged my car to 100% virtually every day for a year and a half. I've seen no consequence. I've never seen winter mode engage any battery conditioning while parked. I park my car outside year-round and it's usually plugged in but, aside from the 12 volt battery monitoring, I've seen no evidence of it drawing current for onboard functions.
My wife just texted me, she arrived at planned destination with no fan fare enroute.Tomorrow, my wife is going on her first unaccompanied long range trip in her Kona EV.
It is a 257 km (one way) trip, which we have already done once in the Kona (together) last fall.
The Kona will be parked outside for four days, subject to forecast temps of -20C.
Question number one: Kona seems very ambivalent (compared to Tesla) regarding charging to 100% and then letting the car sit there (such as long term storage). Can I reset the "Charging Limit" for our usual 90% to 100% for this four day trip and not worry about accelerated battery degradation?
Question number two: My friend's Chevy Bolt has "active battery conditioning" and it uses a measurable amount of energy when the ambient temperature goes below freezing. Does the Kona "Winter Mode" (within EV settings) run the EV battery coolant heater when the car is parked, off and locked up? If so, how much SOC% will this chew through in a single 24 hour period?
Thanks.
My wife arrived back home with 21% (departed at 99% indicated, no stopping).My wife just texted me, she arrived at planned destination with no fan fare enroute.
Departed with 100% SOC, arrived with 19% SOC.
Trip temperature was -7C, roads were clear and dry.