What did you do to your MINI today?

I always do maximum acceleration from intersections, and I get over 5 mi/kWh during the summer even with a lot of freeway driving. I do use cruise control as much as possible. I think tires/wheels make a huge difference, much more so than many realize.
 
Here's hoping it solves the problem. I had mine replaced at the same time/for the same reason. Sometimes I think that I still feel it, but am not sure - time will tell.

FWIW, based on what I have read online this seems to be a not-uncommon issue with the F56 (both ICE and EV). One person reported having their steering rack replaced 5 (!) times trying to solve the issue. Another eventually had the steering column (intermediate steering assembly) replaced as well (resulting in rattling dashboard trim that had to be removed and replaced to perform the job). A third said that they solved the problem themselves by removing some trim and spraying lithium grease up into the intermediate steering assembly. I relayed all of this information to the dealer when I had mine serviced, but they said that they disconnected the rack and steering wheel and felt notchiness only when moving the former.

Again, good luck - hopefully it's one and done for both of us.
One and done for me. I've had the car back for about a week and I can confidently say the issue is resolved. We have two SEs and I always felt like my 23 had lighter steering compared to the 22 and now with the new rack they feel about the same. Great alignment. I'm happy.
 
When I brought mine in for its yearly dealer visit I did comment on the steering clunk. The service advisor said he knows about the issue and his solution was to simply "work out" the steering column adjust. Basically, release the steering column adjust lever and work it through its range of motion many times. This will distribute the grease in the adjustment linkage and fix the issue. Indeed, when I got the car back the clunking was gone and the steering is smooth again.

Incidentally, they did mess up my brake fluid flush though. Somehow they got air into the system so I ended up with a rather spongy brake pedal. Had to bring it back and have the repeat the flush. Not great but glad they made it right quickly.
 
When I brought mine in for its yearly dealer visit I did comment on the steering clunk. The service advisor said he knows about the issue and his solution was to simply "work out" the steering column adjust. Basically, release the steering column adjust lever and work it through its range of motion many times. This will distribute the grease in the adjustment linkage and fix the issue. Indeed, when I got the car back the clunking was gone and the steering is smooth again.

Incidentally, they did mess up my brake fluid flush though. Somehow they got air into the system so I ended up with a rather spongy brake pedal. Had to bring it back and have the repeat the flush. Not great but glad they made it right quickly.
Yeah both dealerships tried the steering column adjustment on mine. Only the second dealer(who resolved the issue) went deeper after that did not cure it. I guess there is three known causes…steering column, intermediate shaft or steering rack. On mine it could be felt not only in the steering wheel but in the lower chassis as well, down by my feet.
 
I looked at it wistfully wishing that it would STOP RAINING so I can drive it!

I could of course just drive it anyway, but I don't really have anywhere to go.

Maybe I will just sit in it and pretend to drive it while making engine noises.

Oh wait . . . it's an EV.
 
Have been going to Physical Therapy for my lower back and it is feeling much better - so I finally had the chance to wash the SE. Smaller than the Cross Turismo, but somehow takes the same amount of time to wash each car. Washed in the garage using Optimum No Rinse and two bucket method.
 

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Have been going to Physical Therapy for my lower back and it is feeling much better - so I finally had the chance to wash the SE. Smaller than the Cross Turismo, but somehow takes the same amount of time to wash each car. Washed in the garage using Optimum No Rinse and two bucket method.
But washing your MINI is more fun than washing the Cross Turismo, right? (This is a MINI forum, after all.)

How many minutes did your MINI's hatch stay clean? Am I the only one who sometimes cheats by washing just my MINI's hatch because the rest of the car doesn't look dirty?
 
My hatch gets dirty before anything else. I'm assuming that's because I frequently drive on roads next to quarries (always mud or dust tracked on the highway).
If the quarries don't dirty-up the rest of your MINI, it's the MINI's aerodynamics, not the quarries. I'll grant that the quarries may dirty-up your hatch quicker than my city driving. If so, that means your hatch is dirty within ten minutes after you leave home.
 
How many minutes did your MINI's hatch stay clean?
Not very long, because rain blows in and/or water drips off the open garage door even if I don't drive it.

Obviously not what you meant, though . . .

Clearly the back gets dirty while driving due to turbulence/vortices. So, anything that cleaned up the aerodynamics should not only improve range but also keep the hatch cleaner. Lots of possibilities - splitter plate, etc. - but the real question (IMO) is what might do the trick w/o being obtrusive. Two ideas come to mind:

1) a different wing/spoiler, e.g., the one of the JCW or one of the various aftermarket options; and/or

2) better management of the airflow under the car, e.g., sealing off under the bumper or a different rear diffuser.

Anyone with any relevant experience that they would like to share?
 
Not very long, because rain blows in and/or water drips off the open garage door even if I don't drive it.

Obviously not what you meant, though . . .

Clearly the back gets dirty while driving due to turbulence/vortices. So, anything that cleaned up the aerodynamics should not only improve range but also keep the hatch cleaner. Lots of possibilities - splitter plate, etc. - but the real question (IMO) is what might do the trick w/o being obtrusive. Two ideas come to mind:

1) a different wing/spoiler, e.g., the one of the JCW or one of the various aftermarket options; and/or

2) better management of the airflow under the car, e.g., sealing off under the bumper or a different rear diffuser.

Anyone with any relevant experience that they would like to share?
What keep my back hatch quite clean are oversized mad flaps ,smooth lexan protection under a front of the car for better air flow and bull bar with 6” lights which deflect air flow different directions and 4x6” American flag on antenna creates vortex which in specific speeds is quite noisy and I believe a washing weekly a dust from using a regen all the time helps a little too .And the most important is hit 92 miles/hr to push a dust/ dirt of SE daily! As I would love hit 150M/hr but this is Max for Mini .Shield under a car shows masking tape bc is clear you will see like nothing is there
 

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But washing your MINI is more fun than washing the Cross Turismo, right? (This is a MINI forum, after all.)

How many minutes did your MINI's hatch stay clean? Am I the only one who sometimes cheats by washing just my MINI's hatch because the rest of the car doesn't look dirty?

Its a tie between the hatch and the wheels. The factory brake pads on our mini sheds brake dust like there is no tomorrow....

The Mini is more fun to drive and wash than the Cross Turismo, which is now used as our Costco and Home Depot hauler. I'm planning to order a BMW i3 Neue Klasse and my wife said there is no way we are giving up the Mini....
 
As I was cleaning a windshield from NY pollution I noticed a shaft from motor to arm of wiper get rusty what I did I cover that part with silicone grease and take of plastic cover from nut and nut holding a wiper arm than I spray with WD-40 and put back .As I’m not assuming I need to replace arm soon I thing help in a future to as I’m going to drive my SE to ground as 75 yrs old . That could be expensive fix if arm fuse from rust and is stack
 

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It was leaking. The A/C hasn’t been very cold this summer and the hissing from vents was getting worse. I did a quick check myself was missing 250g of 1234yf… sniffer found the evaporator was leaking.

Shipped it off to the dealer and was there for 2 weeks. They did the evaporator, condenser, compressor and regas. Also replaced the shifter which was randomly displaying car “rolling” and the 3rd charge port flap.
 
It was leaking. The A/C hasn’t been very cold this summer and the hissing from vents was getting worse. I did a quick check myself was missing 250g of 1234yf… sniffer found the evaporator was leaking.

Shipped it off to the dealer and was there for 2 weeks. They did the evaporator, condenser, compressor and regas. Also replaced the shifter which was randomly displaying car “rolling” and the 3rd charge port flap.
Strange.
 
It happens. 1234yf is proper garbage, I do lots of the same at my shop.

The shifter was getting annoying but luckily the code stayed in the module. Charge port flap was in stock. Entire dash was out of the car and front off.
FWIW, I have never read of anyone else needing the same repair to their SE.

Ditto for the shifter (despite it also being used in ICE models for even longer).

Maybe you've got a little black cloud that follows you around?
 
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