Seeing reports of a Kona Recall in form of Software Update

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I've just seen that once, a few weeks back. This was even after a normal ABS event of 20 min. The 12V charging at the start of traction charging is usually 30 min.

upload_2020-6-12_10-14-12.webp
 
Hi, I registered here to put my update on this issue

I am based in the UK and think I have the Highest milage Kona EV out there (64200 Miles currently) Registered sept 2018

Mine had the BMS update a couple of weeks ago when it was in for a failed 12V Battery and Steering Linkage Repair

Before the update

The Car WOULD NOT Charge on 90% of the Ecotricity DBT 50Kw DC Rapid Chargers (It cut out after 90 seconds tripping the charger),

On All Other 50Kw DC Rapids it would start at 44kw and ramp up to 49kw before throttling at 72%

On 150Kw and 350KW HPCs it would charge at 77kw up to 51% before throttling to 53kw and then again at 72% to 25kw

After the update

The car charges perfectly on all the Ecotricity DBT 50Kw Rapids now at 43kw up to 78% then throttles

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WACmviVeAikZC5Bh6

On Polar 50Kw DC Rapid Chargers the car starts at 44kw but after 5mins throttles to 38kw and will not go higher, stays there till 77% then throttles again to 25kw

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uazPm1Fk286MTj516


On IONITY 150kw and 350Kw HPCs the car will no no longer charge at more than 40kw no matter temp or level

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xpqZKgFMznTPanReA

On Shell 150Kw Chargers the car now charges at 53kw up to 51% then throttles

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qHDckhyhxckXDirQ8

On other 50Kw networks the results have been up to 45kw and no higher, despite these chargers always delivering up to 49kw in the past


Currently have a case open with Hyundai UK, they have tried claiming on the car having high mileage, but its been pointed out to them the 20Reg Loner (With Update) I had exhibited the same pattern, and it was working perfectly upto delivery to them for update.
50 kW would keep me happy (if that is what the car reports as a maximum draw when plugged into a 150kW charger) as one of the DC charger networks in N.A. works off a Tier setup - being that if the car reports to the charger a capability of more than 75 kW in any portion of the charge cycle, we are billed for that tier for the whole charge :(
https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/electrify-america-chargers.6033/
Welcome to the Inside EV forum, look forward to more follow up posts
 
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Another weird thing happened today sitting a stoplight. The car unlocked itself and popped the driver's door latch open which subsequently caused all the warning bells to go off indicating that the door was open while in drive. That has never happened before , wonder if they did an "update" of the body control module. The weirdness just continues.
 
Another weird thing happened today sitting a stoplight. The car unlocked itself and popped the driver's door latch open which subsequently caused all the warning bells to go off indicating that the door was open while in drive. That has never happened before , wonder if they did an "update" of the body control module. The weirdness just continues.
??? Did you have to open the door and close it to clear and did the doors lock again when driving up to auto lock speed or shift out of park (depending on your setting)?
 
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Hi, I registered here to put my update on this issue

I am based in the UK and think I have the Highest milage Kona EV out there (64200 Miles currently) Registered sept 2018
Mine had the BMS update a couple of weeks ago when it was in for a failed 12V Battery and Steering Linkage Repair

Before the update

The Car WOULD NOT Charge on 90% of the Ecotricity DBT 50Kw DC Rapid Chargers (It cut out after 90 seconds tripping the charger),
On All Other 50Kw DC Rapids it would start at 44kw and ramp up to 49kw before throttling at 72%
On 150Kw and 350KW HPCs it would charge at 77kw up to 51% before throttling to 53kw and then again at 72% to 25kw

After the update

The car charges perfectly on all the Ecotricity DBT 50Kw Rapids now at 43kw up to 78% then throttles
- On Polar 50Kw DC Rapid Chargers the car starts at 44kw but after 5mins throttles to 38kw and will not go higher, stays there till 77% then throttles again to 25kw
- On IONITY 150kw and 350Kw HPCs the car will no no longer charge at more than 40kw no matter temp or level
- On Shell 150Kw Chargers the car now charges at 53kw up to 51% then throttles
- On other 50Kw networks the results have been up to 45kw and no higher, despite these chargers always delivering up to 49kw in the past

Currently have a case open with Hyundai UK, they have tried claiming on the car having high mileage, but its been pointed out to them the 20Reg Loner (With Update) I had exhibited the same pattern, and it was working perfectly upto delivery to them for update.

I'm seeing the same thing here in Oz. On a 350kW charger, I get 40 to 42kW. It used to be 75kW.
If we just did short hops around town, I wouldn't care so much, but when we travel, it's usually 1000km in a day.
 
Tried 3 Konas on the IONITY (150KW) HPC Chargers today

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FhTNbMus4TL691EB8

Blue (Pre Update)
White (Pre Update)
Yellow (Post Update)

Yellow (Software updated)
Arrived after a 80 mile drive with 24% left in the battery. It started charging at 33kw, and that stayed the same till 77% where i throttled down to 24kw

https://photos.app.goo.gl/chwBHT8u5BdxkmpcA

Took 70 MINS to get from 24% to 80%

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xNAKqKQ8Gb96dVhU8

Blue (NOT Software Updated)
Arrived after a 50 mile drive with 39% Battery left. It started charging at 53kw and then ramped to over 60kw

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LF9bVEbfKtpVxhWm7

Took 20 Mins to get from 39% to 80%

WHITE (NOT Software Updated)
Arrived after a short drive with over 60% battery left. It started charging at 53kw as it was already over the peak %
 
??? Did you have to open the door and close it to clear and did the doors lock again when driving up to auto lock speed or shift out of park (depending on your setting)?
Yes, I had to open and close the door to clear the warning indicator and it stayed unlocked after I pulled away from the stoplight. I believe I have my setting on "un/lock on shift". I am going to mention this on my planned visit with the service department in a couple of weeks to address the ticky reducer noise again. I suppose it could just be a faulty door sensor that initiated an unlock but what I don't understand is how it also unlatched the driver's door, that seems a little more concerning to me.
 
Tried 3 Konas on the IONITY (150KW) HPC Chargers today

All we need now is at least one other updated car to confirm that yours is not an anomaly.

I do wonder if this reduced maximum charge rate was done deliberately for technical reasons (extend battery life, reduce risk of fire, etc.) or whether it's their final answer to the price gauging that's going on here in USA on the Electrify America network for cars with peak charging capability over 75 kW. The slightly reduced pricing plan they recently introduced for Hyundai/KIA expires at end of year. Would seem stupid to punish the rest of the world by gimping the peak charging rate everywhere. They could have just set peak charging to 74 kW.
 
Thanks for the heads-up.

The Hyundai 800 number just told me that although the service campaign 960 is still showing for my VIN, there is no remedy listed, so the dealer wouldn't be able to do anything. This sounds like a change from when I made the appointment a few days ago and the service advisor at the dealership said it involved reprogramming the battery module.

So I will cancel my Monday appointment and await developments. #HyundaiBetaTester
 
So what is the latest on this? I am scheduled for a motor replacement on Tues, and they were going to also do this BMS update. Should I tell them to hold off?
 
So what is the latest on this? I am scheduled for a motor replacement on Tues, and they were going to also do this BMS update. Should I tell them to hold off?
Personally my choice would be to do one thing at a time, with the motor replacement having first priority- just to avoid any troubleshooting confusion in case of a less than desirable result.
However Hyundai may require the update before commencing with the motor replacement.
All you can do is ask.;)
 
Tried 3 Konas on the IONITY (150KW) HPC Chargers today

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FhTNbMus4TL691EB8

Blue (Pre Update)
White (Pre Update)
Yellow (Post Update)

Yellow (Software updated)
Arrived after a 80 mile drive with 24% left in the battery. It started charging at 33kw, and that stayed the same till 77% where i throttled down to 24kw

https://photos.app.goo.gl/chwBHT8u5BdxkmpcA

Took 70 MINS to get from 24% to 80%

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xNAKqKQ8Gb96dVhU8

Blue (NOT Software Updated)
Arrived after a 50 mile drive with 39% Battery left. It started charging at 53kw and then ramped to over 60kw

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LF9bVEbfKtpVxhWm7

Took 20 Mins to get from 39% to 80%

WHITE (NOT Software Updated)
Arrived after a short drive with over 60% battery left. It started charging at 53kw as it was already over the peak %

Its interesting that the DC charge profile has changed with recent software update but not necessarily for the worse from what I have observed. I recently went to a Petro Canada DC fast charger I believe they are rated at 250 kW. I charged from 5% to 61% SOC . The battery temperature at the start of the session was 25 degrees C. The charger started at 68 kW slowly ramped up to a max charge delivery of 75 kW at 32% SOC and the ramped down to 70-72 kW at 40% SOC and ramped down again to 58 KW at 59% SOC. The session ended with 40.6 kWh delivered over 34 minutes for and average of 71.6 kW delivery over the entire session.
 
I think it is ridiculous to have a lead acid battery in the Kona anyway. Batteries like the Battleborn Lion battery are great and have their own protection from damage Undercharging or overcharging. I would go one step farther, why have any 12v battery at all. There is plenty of energy in the main high voltage batteries that could be efficiently reduced to give a steady 12vdc. There is no ignition, no need for cranking hours. It adds weight, uses space and needs replacing. All things that a small battery reserve for electronics and sensing circuits for failures could handle.
 
Lots of subtle reasons for having a 12v battery.
The car needs permanent 12V at low power for entry systems, which would need a dedicated low-power converter in the pack.
There is also the safety issue - a contactor in the pack isolates the HV supply, and is turned on by the external 12V supply. It would be tricky, though not impossible, to ensure that, for example, HV got turned off in the case of an accident under all likely scenarios.
Probably a few other reasons, but AFAIK no current production EV does without a 12V battery, though there are good arguments why it shouldn't be a lead-acid type
 
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