Reduced charge rate warnings?

[Outagas]

Checking in with an update.

The tech support group at Wallbox has been nothing short of heroic on this.

They’ve analyzed logs, tried different firmware, had me pull the thing apart and take pics of circuit boards and wiring, asked for vehicle data, panel specs, tried reboots, restarts, etc etc. Nothing seems to cure the issue of reduced power charging on initial plug in and full power available if the session is cancelled and restarted- either from the car or Wallbox app.

They told me tonight it’s time to cry uncle and they’re just going to ship me a brand new unit, no charge.

Absolutely first rate customer service I’d say.

But wow will it be embarrassing if it turns out to be the car after all….

Thanks for all the ideas and thoughts.

 

[Texas22Step]

I've been charging my SE at full-speed using a dumb, commercial-model, 48-Amp ClipperCreek EVSE for 2 years. It has a giant relay inside that makes a most satisfyingly loud THUNK! when it starts and stops the charging process.

Similarly, I have been using a dumb Siemens EVSE for nearly 5 years to charge first a Clarity PHEV and then two different MINI SE's (2021 and 2022) without a single hiccup. Sometimes "dumb" = reliability. Just ask Electrify America.

 

[Outagas]

Agree - usually “dumber than a bag of hammers” isn’t a compliment but I think I’d like a little more dumb in my life about now…

One of my other vehicles is a very old Jeep. You want 4 wheel drive? You pull a big fat lever and…clunk…you got 4 wheel drive. You want traction control? Take your foot off the gas… You want climate control? Open the cowl flap under the windshield for fresh air or the one on the floor for warm air cuz that air has just passed over the exhaust manifold…..Dumb!

 

[SameGuy]

Lol, I owned a YJ Wrangler Laredo in the late 80s, it was a one year old lease return when I picked it up, with about 10,000 miles on it. It was in decent enough shape, though already showing signs of cracking paint at the seams and hinges and little hints of the rust that was to come. But my first foray off-road a couple of weeks into ownership revealed that the four-wheel-drive system wasn’t actually working, because the locking front hubs weren’t in fact locking, and there was no way to do it manually like before. I don’t exactly remember what ended up being wrong with it, but somewhere between the secondary vacuum pump and the servo for the front hubs something went wrong and I was without my car for three weeks while the dealership tried to figure it out. I sold it within a year.

 

[Outagas]

…somewhere between the secondary vacuum pump and the servo for the front hubs something went wrong….

Yep - a decided absence of Dumb sounds like….

I think mine was built before words like “servo” were even invented….

 

[SameGuy]

Hah! I kinda figured it was non-CJ and either a Willys or Ford after you mentioned the cowl flap! There’s a Willys somewhere in my area, and I’ve seen the guy driving it in all kinds of weather, including mid-winter without the Bimini… like Patton rallying the troops in the Ardennes.

PS: that’s a nice M38.

 

[Outagas]

Not quite as old as a 38 (and likely not as valuable). This one is a ‘49 CJ3a - basically the second post-war civvy model.

As I understand it Willys realized peace in Europe likely meant bankruptcy so they pivoted to marketing the things to farmers as a more versatile and powerful option to the tractors of the day.

They deleted the passenger seat, machine gun mount and blackout running lights, added a tailgate and voila! Mine even has a ~250lb cast iron weight that you can drop between the front frame rails to aid in pulling a plow. It wasn’t, sadly ordered with the PTO option that bolted to the transfer case.

This one was owned by 3 generations of the same family since new and lived on a farm in western Canada before I got my mitts on it. Still had wheat chaff wedged in the grille when it came off the transporter.

The only concession to safety I thought I’d make was to install modern tires, a 4 point harness to keep my face out of the steering wheel, and a fire extinguisher. Still gonna die in all but the slowest of rear enders or t-bone situations but I thought I’d at least make an effort.
I don’t seriously off-road it so a roll bar isn’t high on the list although I’ve seen videos of stock ones practically climb trees and near vertical canyon walls they’re so nimble.
Lotsa dumb fun for sure.

 

[Rexsio]

I've been charging my SE at full-speed using a dumb, commercial-model, 48-Amp ClipperCreek EVSE for 2 years. It has a giant relay inside that makes a most satisfyingly loud THUNK! when it starts and stops the charging process.

I'm still impressed that MINI of Ann Arbor changed the default "half-fast" Level 2 setting to the full 32-Amp setting. My SE was the only SE they delivered before closing for good (well, for bad IMO) the next day.

Are you still using Clipper Creek?MY unit is HCS-40PR / 32 amp.Clipper Creek when I plug J 1772 to a SE always make that loud THUNK! For past 2 years but is not stop to charge but occasionally is going to reduced charging .I unplug once or twice and charging is switching to maximum charging right away Setting in a car is always L 2 MAXIMUM .Recently I send unit to manufacture and unit came back with new beef up plug to NEMA 14-50 and 100% check up performance.What’s bathers me for 5 years using unit with BMW I 3 unit never make any noise and never cut to reduced charging .Could be relay on SE on onboard charger /inverter/between battery and inverter.Diagnostics with dealer service didn’t find any thing they send me to DC charging stations “Stupid diagnose “ How your Unit is performing any of symptoms I experience ? Thanks for any suggestions@ insightman.Sound to me like relay in SE struggle to open to accept a charge from Charger one/two try plug unplug correct an issue.

 

[insightman]

Are you still using Clipper Creek?MY unit is HCS-40PR / 32 amp.Clipper Creek when I plug J 1772 to a SE always make that loud THUNK! For past 2 years but is not stop to charge but occasionally is going to reduced charging .I unplug once or twice and charging is switching to maximum charging right away Setting in a car is always L 2 MAXIMUM .Recently I send unit to manufacture and unit came back with new beef up plug to NEMA 14-50 and 100% check up performance.What’s bathers me for 5 years using unit with BMW I 3 unit never make any noise and never cut to reduced charging .Could be relay on SE on onboard charger /inverter/between battery and inverter.Diagnostics with dealer service didn’t find any thing they send me to DC charging stations “Stupid diagnose “ How your Unit is performing any of symptoms I experience ? Thanks for any suggestions@ insightman.Sound to me like relay in SE struggle to open to accept a charge from Charger one/two try plug unplug correct an issue.

Yes, I still have my old 48-Amp ClipperCreek CS-60 EVSE with the "big-thunk" relay. I use it to charge both my SE and my Honda Clarity Plug-In Hybrid (see the Clarity's license plate below the EVSE). It always works with none of the problems you're experiencing.

Unfortunately, based on your description, it sounds like your problem is intermittent--the most difficult kind of problem to diagnose. You've taken the right steps by getting your EVSE updated and having the dealer run whatever diagnostics they have.

My only suggestion would be to try a public Level 2 EVSE and see if it exhibits the same reduction in charging rate. If the slow charging happens with a different Level 2 EVSE, perhaps a different MINI dealer could find the problem--a dealer who doesn't suggest trying a DC charging station to solve an AC problem.

 

[utkan]

Hi everyone!
Found this forum after posting on Reddit.com/r/MiniSe
I am currently having a similar problem with our new to us 24 Cooper Se with 16Kmiles. We just got the car and first charge at home gave me the reduced charging warning. Pulled codes and found
"0318D1 KLE internal fault: Switch unit, relay 2 does not close."
"222826 Charge management function: Check Control message 885,
charging with reduced output"
Got the car to Mini dealer for the repair with the codes still in the history
This is the 6 th day and they can't reproduce the codes to have it as current (that is what they need to approve repairs to be paid by Mini.
I have been thinking they are lying to me but can't figure out why. I had the same problem every time using BMW charger it came with and Tesla charger with J1775 adaptor . No problems with DCFC . After reading this post I am thinking it is the 208V commercial voltage they have might be the issue(meaning that they don't have the issue )
I have been charging my tesla on this outlet 40amp everyday with no problem for a year . So I know its not the power in my house is causing the issue.
Thank you for your time.

 

[Rexsio]

Hi everyone!
Found this forum after posting on Reddit.com/r/MiniSe
I am currently having a similar problem with our new to us 24 Cooper Se with 16Kmiles. We just got the car and first charge at home gave me the reduced charging warning. Pulled codes and found
"0318D1 KLE internal fault: Switch unit, relay 2 does not close."
"222826 Charge management function: Check Control message 885,
charging with reduced output"
Got the car to Mini dealer for the repair with the codes still in the history
This is the 6 th day and they can't reproduce the codes to have it as current (that is what they need to approve repairs to be paid by Mini.
I have been thinking they are lying to me but can't figure out why. I had the same problem every time using BMW charger it came with and Tesla charger with J1775 adaptor . No problems with DCFC . After reading this post I am thinking it is the 208V commercial voltage they have might be the issue(meaning that they don't have the issue )
I have been charging my tesla on this outlet 40amp everyday with no problem for a year . So I know its not the power in my house is causing the issue.
Thank you for your time.

If you read my previous post I have the same problem for 2 years and dealer after all diagnosis was telling me a car have no issues and my SE have never problems to charge on L2 public chargers on 208 Volts .My SE was never charged on DC chargers .As my Clipper Creek 32 amps was check by factory and supposed by 100% good and my 40 Amps connection in garage was good I don’t know what to do .I don’t believe anybody I decide to buy cheap chargers $175 Vevor 32Amps and my problems with charging in my garage went away for past 2 years works like a charm here and there I have to plug car twice to get 32 amps charge but very rarely.With this charger car is not making any noise when plug in.2022 SE /33333 miles

 

[pictsidhe]

Sounds like a flaky relay. Mini are awful about intermittent faults. If they can't duplicate it, it isn't covered. I took mine for flaky AC twice under warranty, but they couldn't duplicate it, so no fix. It went out for a full week soon after the warranty expired, but that wouldn't be covered and I wasn't paying them to fix something they refused to warranty. You can only hope that it fails fully under warranty, the KLE is not cheap.