Reduced charge rate warnings?

[Outagas]

Checking in with an update.

The tech support group at Wallbox has been nothing short of heroic on this.

They’ve analyzed logs, tried different firmware, had me pull the thing apart and take pics of circuit boards and wiring, asked for vehicle data, panel specs, tried reboots, restarts, etc etc. Nothing seems to cure the issue of reduced power charging on initial plug in and full power available if the session is cancelled and restarted- either from the car or Wallbox app.

They told me tonight it’s time to cry uncle and they’re just going to ship me a brand new unit, no charge.

Absolutely first rate customer service I’d say.

But wow will it be embarrassing if it turns out to be the car after all….

Thanks for all the ideas and thoughts.

 

[Texas22Step]

I've been charging my SE at full-speed using a dumb, commercial-model, 48-Amp ClipperCreek EVSE for 2 years. It has a giant relay inside that makes a most satisfyingly loud THUNK! when it starts and stops the charging process.

Similarly, I have been using a dumb Siemens EVSE for nearly 5 years to charge first a Clarity PHEV and then two different MINI SE's (2021 and 2022) without a single hiccup. Sometimes "dumb" = reliability. Just ask Electrify America.

 

[Outagas]

Agree - usually “dumber than a bag of hammers” isn’t a compliment but I think I’d like a little more dumb in my life about now…

One of my other vehicles is a very old Jeep. You want 4 wheel drive? You pull a big fat lever and…clunk…you got 4 wheel drive. You want traction control? Take your foot off the gas… You want climate control? Open the cowl flap under the windshield for fresh air or the one on the floor for warm air cuz that air has just passed over the exhaust manifold…..Dumb!

 

[SameGuy]

Lol, I owned a YJ Wrangler Laredo in the late 80s, it was a one year old lease return when I picked it up, with about 10,000 miles on it. It was in decent enough shape, though already showing signs of cracking paint at the seams and hinges and little hints of the rust that was to come. But my first foray off-road a couple of weeks into ownership revealed that the four-wheel-drive system wasn’t actually working, because the locking front hubs weren’t in fact locking, and there was no way to do it manually like before. I don’t exactly remember what ended up being wrong with it, but somewhere between the secondary vacuum pump and the servo for the front hubs something went wrong and I was without my car for three weeks while the dealership tried to figure it out. I sold it within a year.

 

[Outagas]

…somewhere between the secondary vacuum pump and the servo for the front hubs something went wrong….

Yep - a decided absence of Dumb sounds like….

I think mine was built before words like “servo” were even invented….

 

[SameGuy]

Hah! I kinda figured it was non-CJ and either a Willys or Ford after you mentioned the cowl flap! There’s a Willys somewhere in my area, and I’ve seen the guy driving it in all kinds of weather, including mid-winter without the Bimini… like Patton rallying the troops in the Ardennes.

PS: that’s a nice M38.

 

[Outagas]

Not quite as old as a 38 (and likely not as valuable). This one is a ‘49 CJ3a - basically the second post-war civvy model.

As I understand it Willys realized peace in Europe likely meant bankruptcy so they pivoted to marketing the things to farmers as a more versatile and powerful option to the tractors of the day.

They deleted the passenger seat, machine gun mount and blackout running lights, added a tailgate and voila! Mine even has a ~250lb cast iron weight that you can drop between the front frame rails to aid in pulling a plow. It wasn’t, sadly ordered with the PTO option that bolted to the transfer case.

This one was owned by 3 generations of the same family since new and lived on a farm in western Canada before I got my mitts on it. Still had wheat chaff wedged in the grille when it came off the transporter.

The only concession to safety I thought I’d make was to install modern tires, a 4 point harness to keep my face out of the steering wheel, and a fire extinguisher. Still gonna die in all but the slowest of rear enders or t-bone situations but I thought I’d at least make an effort.
I don’t seriously off-road it so a roll bar isn’t high on the list although I’ve seen videos of stock ones practically climb trees and near vertical canyon walls they’re so nimble.
Lotsa dumb fun for sure.

 

[Rexsio]

I've been charging my SE at full-speed using a dumb, commercial-model, 48-Amp ClipperCreek EVSE for 2 years. It has a giant relay inside that makes a most satisfyingly loud THUNK! when it starts and stops the charging process.

I'm still impressed that MINI of Ann Arbor changed the default "half-fast" Level 2 setting to the full 32-Amp setting. My SE was the only SE they delivered before closing for good (well, for bad IMO) the next day.

Are you still using Clipper Creek?MY unit is HCS-40PR / 32 amp.Clipper Creek when I plug J 1772 to a SE always make that loud THUNK! For past 2 years but is not stop to charge but occasionally is going to reduced charging .I unplug once or twice and charging is switching to maximum charging right away Setting in a car is always L 2 MAXIMUM .Recently I send unit to manufacture and unit came back with new beef up plug to NEMA 14-50 and 100% check up performance.What’s bathers me for 5 years using unit with BMW I 3 unit never make any noise and never cut to reduced charging .Could be relay on SE on onboard charger /inverter/between battery and inverter.Diagnostics with dealer service didn’t find any thing they send me to DC charging stations “Stupid diagnose “ How your Unit is performing any of symptoms I experience ? Thanks for any suggestions@ insightman.Sound to me like relay in SE struggle to open to accept a charge from Charger one/two try plug unplug correct an issue.

 

[insightman]

Are you still using Clipper Creek?MY unit is HCS-40PR / 32 amp.Clipper Creek when I plug J 1772 to a SE always make that loud THUNK! For past 2 years but is not stop to charge but occasionally is going to reduced charging .I unplug once or twice and charging is switching to maximum charging right away Setting in a car is always L 2 MAXIMUM .Recently I send unit to manufacture and unit came back with new beef up plug to NEMA 14-50 and 100% check up performance.What’s bathers me for 5 years using unit with BMW I 3 unit never make any noise and never cut to reduced charging .Could be relay on SE on onboard charger /inverter/between battery and inverter.Diagnostics with dealer service didn’t find any thing they send me to DC charging stations “Stupid diagnose “ How your Unit is performing any of symptoms I experience ? Thanks for any suggestions@ insightman.Sound to me like relay in SE struggle to open to accept a charge from Charger one/two try plug unplug correct an issue.

Yes, I still have my old 48-Amp ClipperCreek CS-60 EVSE with the "big-thunk" relay. I use it to charge both my SE and my Honda Clarity Plug-In Hybrid (see the Clarity's license plate below the EVSE). It always works with none of the problems you're experiencing.



Unfortunately, based on your description, it sounds like your problem is intermittent--the most difficult kind of problem to diagnose. You've taken the right steps by getting your EVSE updated and having the dealer run whatever diagnostics they have.

My only suggestion would be to try a public Level 2 EVSE and see if it exhibits the same reduction in charging rate. If the slow charging happens with a different Level 2 EVSE, perhaps a different MINI dealer could find the problem--a dealer who doesn't suggest trying a DC charging station to solve an AC problem.