Recommend EV Level 2 Charger for home (US)

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Brian Beuchaw said:
Unfortunately, I can only get federal rebates/credits - OK has no EV rebates/credits/anything, they'd probably like to charge us for using EVs since they're so fossil-fuel oriented, lol...
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There are electric vehicles made in Michigan, but the legislators don't care, so no EV tax breaks here, either. However, the auto-dealer lobbyists make sure the legislators know how evil Tesla is and keep that company from selling cars here.
 
I’m likely ordering the the Grizzl-E Smart EVSE this week, I’ve asked my MA and F&I guy if the Flex is included up here and Salesdweeb has ignored the question in his replies so far, and F&I guy doesn’t ever get back to me smh.

Any current coupon codes available for Grizzl-E? Mods, if that request is verboten I apologize, and please advise.
 
SameGuy said:
I’m likely ordering the the Grizzl-E Smart EVSE this week, I’ve asked my MA and F&I guy if the Flex is included up here and Salesdweeb has ignored the question in his replies so far, and F&I guy doesn’t ever get back to me smh.

Any current coupon codes available for Grizzl-E? Mods, if that request is verboten I apologize, and please advise.
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What are flex, MA and F&I?
 
I only learned these (and more) terms after I joined the forum. Flex is the BMW Flex Charger now included with the 2023 SE in the States. MA is “Motoring Adviser,” MINI-speak for “salesdweeb.” F&I is standard car retail shorthand for “Finance and Insurance,” the snake oil pitchperson the Saledweeb sends you in to meet for a credit check and signing all the contracts and finance paperwork, who then tries to scam you into extended warranties, fabric protection, paint sealant, and rustproofing, all of which are significantly overpriced if not downright useless.
 
SameGuy said:
I only learned these (and more) terms after I joined the forum. Flex is the BMW Flex Charger now included with the 2023 SE in the States. MA is “Motoring Adviser,” MINI-speak for “salesdweeb.” F&I is standard car retail shorthand for “Finance and Insurance,” the snake oil pitchperson the Saledweeb sends you in to meet for a credit check and signing all the contracts and finance paperwork, who then tries to scam you into extended warranties, fabric protection, paint sealant, and rustproofing, all of which are significantly overpriced if not downright useless.
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Yeah - they don't like people like me who pay cash :) Maybe thats why they've held my car in quality check for a month lol
 
Quiet Mini said:
I have had no problems whatsoever with my Grizzl-e. It’s simple, reliable, relatively inexpensive, and UL listed. Bonus it can be white or black to match your car’s roof. :D
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I got the Classic in white. Right now it’s on a splitter at 24a from my 30a dryer socket. When I save up a few more $$ I’m planning on mounting it outside and running it at higher amperage. I like how it’s configurable with the switches inside the box and is super heavy duty, made in Canada for extreme weather no doubt. It’s super simple and robust.
 
Torrey said:
Have you tried to lower the setting in the car? I think for 240V it has two setting, max and restricted and the restricted is 16A. That would be better than 7A.
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Tried that today, and no go - charger ramped up to 7.5A and stayed there when it was set to "reduced" for 240V, no error messages. Changed setting back to "max" for 240v and charger still stayed at 7.5A with no error messages. It's going in to MINI Thursday and it'll either be a really quick or really long appt. Plan to plug my MINI into their level 2 charger and let's see if it goes to really, truly max charging of ~30A, and if so, then I need to test my charger somehow with a circuit somewhere else, and then go from there, depending on results. If it doesn't go to ~30A, then they need to fix the MINI.
 
Brian Beuchaw said:
Tried that today, and no go - charger ramped up to 7.5A and stayed there when it was set to "reduced" for 240V, no error messages. Changed setting back to "max" for 240v and charger still stayed at 7.5A with no error messages.
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I’m having the same issue….charging at max on L2 regardless of the setting. Will be interested in what you find out.
 
Ketos said:
I put in a hardwired 48Amp Wallbox Pulsar Plus. I went with hardwired because I saw reviews on the NEMA plugs online that recommended getting the $80 outlets verse the $10 one I bought because of potential fire risk. I don't know what the rate of failure is for NEMA outlets since they are all UL-listed, but I figure it's one less thing that can go wrong. After thinking it over, It was easier to DIY hardwired too. The Wallbox is a smart EVSE that comes with a very nice app. But the Mini app also has most of the functions for charging.
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I put it in the same unit (but I used an electrician)
 
moncureww said:
I got the Classic in white. Right now it’s on a splitter at 24a from my 30a dryer socket. When I save up a few more $$ I’m planning on mounting it outside and running it at higher amperage. I like how it’s configurable with the switches inside the box and is super heavy duty, made in Canada for extreme weather no doubt. It’s super simple and robust.
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The gains from charging at 24A (5.76kW) to 30.83A (7.4kW) is pretty minimal for the MINI. However, it would still be useful if you add a second EV to the household.
 
teslarati97 said:
The gains from charging at 24A (5.76kW) to 30.83A (7.4kW) is pretty minimal for the MINI. However, it would still be useful if you add a second EV to the household.
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That’s what I can see. It’s perfectly suited to my needs at 24a, and I’m not gonna go using that hammer drill and call the electrician any time soon.
 
Alf_W said:
I’m having the same issue….charging at max on L2 regardless of the setting. Will be interested in what you find out.
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It's the MINI. Dealer's level 2 charger also stalled out at ~7.5A. They're currently investigating codes, etc. and have opened a TSR (Technical Service Request?) with BMW. They had to escalate because they're not sure what's wrong, mine's only the 2nd MINI SE in OKC, so they might've worked a bit on BMW's EVs, but never a MINI, so they're pretty in-the-dark...
 
tesrivmini said:
It’s the 80% rule again. A circuit delivering 48A has to be rated for 60A, including the plug.
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Yes, in this specific case that's true. And it may be technically true that there are no 48A rated outlets, I'd think a 50A could be substituted without real danger.
 
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