I added sound insulation to my Kona Electric

[syntaxfx]

Hi EVPower,
I'm just wondering how much weight has been added to the car and has it made any significant difference to the overall range?

 

[EVPower]

I:ve been following this thread too, and greatly appreciatimg all the disassembly pictures as a
good reference. Sometimes it"s hard to determine exactly what is holding a given piece of
trim on, and still avoid simply pulling harder and breaking something. Careful pre-bending and
a good flashlight helps. I have a couple of flat plastic tools whose original intent is unclear --
smoothing down tape, perhaps, or mar-free scraping? Anyway, those work well for a gentle pry.

But I hadn:t really thought about the sound angle at all, until today when I realized that there
is one distinct characteristic that I've sort of always subconsciously noticed, but dismissed
as normal. I still will dismiss it since I run with windows open and it totally doesn't matter,
but now I can quantify it. There seems to be a whole-body resonance peak right around 220
Hz, or an octave down from concert A minus a smidge, and I can hum along with it to really
bring it "out of the mix". It is completely independent of speed, so it's not tires.

Since I have the rear seat cushion out but the seatbacks up at the moment, perhaps more of
it was coming through/from that body panel with the service-plug access. Anyway, I went back
through the thread a bit to see if any *spectral* analysis had been done. EVPower, was there
any particular phase of installation that gave a really significant drop? That might point to the
resonant bits. I suppose I could crawl around knocking on pieces of body and see if I detect
that same overtone ... it's clear that as soon as motion begns at all, some part is reliably getting
stimulated and responding the only way it can.

Do those glued-on pads of stuff simply try to damp that sort of thing? Does exact position and
angle matter to their effectiveness? I would think there are some pretty complex vibration
nodes going on.

_H*

Sorry for the delay, busy with kids and vacation is soon.

Hi hobbit, you are more knowledgeable from the sound perspective than me. So the db test was more easy for me but doesn't paint the true picture. I didn't make any spectral analysis because i didn't know what frequency I needed to check. If you help me out, I can test it out. But now that my car is almost done with all sound deadeding and foam cell, I don't think I would find your resonance.

Sound deadening mat is self-adhesive https://www.amazon.ca/Noico-deadeni...pd_rd_i=B01KZ5X7KO&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_t and the job is to reduce the resonance. You cut what ever you want. From many reads on the internet and video of installation, you need 25% coverage. The ROI from doing more, isn't worth it.

check this video :


Afterward, the https://www.amazon.ca/Noico-Insulat...pd_rd_i=B07TKXCN6F&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_3_i
Closed Cell Deadening is self-adhesive and cut down the noise (frequency of sound or something like that). You need 100% coverage. You install it on top of the sound deadening mat

The trunk, where should be a tire replacement, is the 1st place to start and greatly lower the sound of my car. After was wheels arch.

If something isn't clear, reply to me.

 

[EVPower]

Hi EVPower,
I'm just wondering how much weight has been added to the car and has it made any significant difference to the overall range?

I eat less to compensated the weight
Seriously, here is what I actually bought from amazon to do the car :

5 x Noico Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening (700 g)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TKXCN6F/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 X Noico car Sound deadening mat (11.7 kg)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, total weight added : 15.2 kg.

The range shouldn't be that much affected. Keep in mind that the close foam should be able to reduce heat/cold consumption. Didn't find some hard true on it but seem very possible.

 

[apu]

I eat less to compensated the weight
Seriously, here is what I actually bought from amazon to do the car :

5 x Noico Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening (700 g)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TKXCN6F/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 X Noico car Sound deadening mat (11.7 kg)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, total weight added : 15.2 kg.

The range shouldn't be that much affected. Keep in mind that the close foam should be able to reduce heat/cold consumption. Didn't find some hard true on it but seem very possible.

Sorry, just for fun I had to do the math. Using the data from tire rack re: "a 50-pound spare tire, wheel, jack and tools can reduces the vehicle's fuel economy by up to 1%.

So we can figure 0.5% loss for ~30 lbs (15kg) which would translate to approximately 1.3 miles range loss assuming an available max EPA range

 

[DelRider]

Sorry, just for fun I had to do the math. Using the data from tire rack re: "a 50-pound spare tire, wheel, jack and tools can reduces the vehicle's fuel economy by up to 1%.

So we can figure 0.5% loss for ~30 lbs (15kg) which would translate to approximately 1.3 miles range loss assuming an available max EPA range

Given all the variables that affect mileage, use cases of the vehicle, the inherit limitations and inaccuracies of the EPA methods, and so on. These sorts of estimates are what we, ironically, call "noise".

 

[syntaxfx]

I eat less to compensated the weight
Seriously, here is what I actually bought from amazon to do the car :

5 x Noico Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening (700 g)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TKXCN6F/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 X Noico car Sound deadening mat (11.7 kg)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, total weight added : 15.2 kg.

The range shouldn't be that much affected. Keep in mind that the close foam should be able to reduce heat/cold consumption. Didn't find some hard true on it but seem very possible.

So, I only need to lose another 8kg and it's covered. My gym instructor will be delighted...
I'd like to add my appreciation for all the images too. They're very helpful.

 

[R P]

Sorry for the delay, busy with kids and vacation is soon.

Hi hobbit, you are more knowledgeable from the sound perspective than me. So the db test was more easy for me but doesn't paint the true picture. I didn't make any spectral analysis because i didn't know what frequency I needed to check. If you help me out, I can test it out. But now that my car is almost done with all sound deadeding and foam cell, I don't think I would find your resonance.

Sound deadening mat is self-adhesive https://www.amazon.ca/Noico-deadeni...pd_rd_i=B01KZ5X7KO&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_t and the job is to reduce the resonance. You cut what ever you want. From many reads on the internet and video of installation, you need 25% coverage. The ROI from doing more, isn't worth it.

check this video :


Afterward, the https://www.amazon.ca/Noico-Insulat...pd_rd_i=B07TKXCN6F&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_3_i
Closed Cell Deadening is self-adhesive and cut down the noise (frequency of sound or something like that). You need 100% coverage. You install it on top of the sound deadening mat

The trunk, where should be a tire replacement, is the 1st place to start and greatly lower the sound of my car. After was wheels arch.

If something isn't clear, reply to me.

They have been adding some new pavement in places, real dark stuff, and I noticed how quiet the Kona is on this stuff, even at higher speeds. So it confirms to me that it is mostly road noise, not wind noise.

I can see easily see doing the rear wheel trunk, but not sure about the arches. Are you talking about the rear wheel ones or front ones?

 

[EVPower]

They have been adding some new pavement in places, real dark stuff, and I noticed how quiet the Kona is on this stuff, even at higher speeds. So it confirms to me that it is mostly road noise, not wind noise.

I can see easily see doing the rear wheel trunk, but not sure about the arches. Are you talking about the rear wheel ones or front ones?

I only have done the front's one. Check on the post. Easy to do, but you need to remove rims. Has made a huge difference.

The rear wheels arch aren't done yet. I just finish both right doors and some sounds seam to come from the rear again Will check it shortly. The only left spot to do is, the roof.

 

[R P]

So, on the arches, you removed them from the exterior and added the same Noico to the inside? And they still fit OK after that? And that made a big diff to the front noise?

I might try the spare wheel well trunk, since it is easy to do. I have some Noico.

On another car forum for my other car (not Hyundai) someone added Noico to the interior of the rear wheel panel arhes, and said it made a big diff. But that car is still a lot better than my Kona without doing anything. I didn't open up rear panels in the Kona, but suspect there is no noise insulation in there.

 

[EVPower]

So, on the arches, you removed them from the exterior and added the same Noico to the inside? And they still fit OK after that? And that made a big diff to the front noise?

I might try the spare wheel well trunk, since it is easy to do. I have some Noico.

On another car forum for my other car (not Hyundai) someone added Noico to the interior of the rear wheel panel arhes, and said it made a big diff. But that car is still a lot better than my Kona without doing anything. I didn't open up rear panels in the Kona, but suspect there is no noise insulation in there.

Yes, you remove the the rims and then the plastic wheels arch from the exterior. Everything fit because you have some much wasted space.
If you check on this thread, all the all the pictures. If I remember correctly, they put a little bit of insulation in the plastic wheels arch but not enough.

I added some Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener but is wasn't enough to reduce the sound. I then added the Noico Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening 100% coverage and that does the trick.

 

[R P]

Would I get a bigger bang for the buck to use my Noico (80mil) on the arch wheel wells vs the spare tire trunk?

 

[EVPower]

Would I get a bigger bang for the buck to use my Noico (80mil) on the arch wheel wells vs the spare tire trunk?

From the metric, do the spare tire trunk first, then the arch wheel wells.

Considering that, with that https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, I almost cover the parts needed for the job : trunk, front wheel arch and 2 doors and front and rear under seats.

Once you start this project, I think you will want to cover all area as possible

 

[EVPower]

Rear right door done.

 

[EVPower]

Last bit of the rear left wheel arch completely done.

 

[R P]

From the metric, do the spare tire trunk first, then the arch wheel wells.
Considering that, with that https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, I almost cover the parts needed for the job : trunk, front wheel arch and 2 doors and front and rear under seats.
Once you start this project, I think you will want to cover all area as possible

I've only got 18 sq ft of the stuff, so want to use it where I get the best results. I am a little loathe in tearing apart the inside of my car, as I don't want to screw anything up.

I might also wait until my battery is replaced (just in case they don't) to be sure I will be keeping this car for a long time. I am pretty happy with it, other than that road noise at higher speeds.

 

[EVPower]

front right door done.

db has improve : -1 db less on average from both right doors done. Really satisfy.

The bad news : both right doors now insulated, has mask some sound coming from the back. Need to recheck it. Will be able to not be a driver next week and be able figure out from the rear side

What to do : the roof and near the firewall.

 

[EVPower]

I've only got 18 sq ft of the stuff, so want to use it where I get the best results. I am a little loathe in tearing apart the inside of my car, as I don't want to screw anything up.

I might also wait until my battery is replaced (just in case they don't) to be sure I will be keeping this car for a long time. I am pretty happy with it, other than that road noise at higher speeds.

I'm not in the recall list but I understand you. Just take your time. The trunk space is the easiest. The second easiest is removing the rear passenger seats. You have advantages : you have my pictures that can give you little clue where the pins are...

Or check this site : https://www.hkona.com/roof_trim_assembly_repair_procedures-1263.html I found it by hazard and this will be my next part.

 

[R P]

OK, thanks, very useful and helpful info.

 

[hobbit]

I found that the soft plastic tool I have for gently prying body panels is a "smoother', or squeegee,
usually found in wallpapering kits or for auto body filler. I'm using it as a wedge instead, so it's
pretty beat up at this point. Because it's a broad edge, it leaves less gouging than a taped-up
screwdriver.

_H*

 

[EVPower]

I was able to identify where the sound come from in the rear pillar trim https://www.hkona.com/rear_pillar_trim_components_and_components_location-1277.html. I hasn't reinstall it because I was planning to do the roof first. Hobbit give a hint to check to frequency. Being in the rear passenger seat for once, I was able to check the db too, 80-81 db (between 70 - 120 hertz) near the left side trim remove and 74-75 db when the cell on me. I tough that the trunk all done, including the rear interior wheel arches will reduce it, but seem I need to insulate from the outside too. So the roof will wait...

Will check after vacation and time off after my work.