I added sound insulation to my Kona Electric

[hobbit]

All those holes in the hood structure are where rodents can freely go in and out.
Every time I lift my hood I hear acorns rolling around inside it, that got there
before I blocked off the four big holes along the front. And they could probably
still chew their way past the liner to get into some of the smaller ones.

_H*

 

[EVPower]

All those holes in the hood structure are where rodents can freely go in and out.
Every time I lift my hood I hear acorns rolling around inside it, that got there
before I blocked off the four big holes along the front. And they could probably
still chew their way past the liner to get into some of the smaller ones.

_H*

Nice info and your website has many information on the kona. Thanks for sharing. That's explain why a found some tree stuff down the well arch when doing the insulation. Will try to figure out something when all the cabin and the trunk are fully done.

 

[EVPower]

I have done the best I could to do the driver side. Hyundai has done a half OK job for the floor insulate the but I wanted more.
Caution : I broke 2 clips on the first plastic protector right foot when you see the orange cable. The plastic is hold now with only the push pin

 

[EVPower]

driver floor insulation part 2

The stock floor insulation is not removable because of all the stuff that goes in : direction, etc. So I wasn't able to soundproof all way up. Find it too difficult for was I tough I will gain. Will check on the firewall side under the hood, if I can put some.

 

[EVPower]

Left Front door done :

 

[EVPower]

Left Front door panel :

From my usually same test drive, car passing by, are less louder.

But speaker sound are way better.

Noise road is still a issue. To my hear, it hasn't modify the way I wanted.

 

[EVPower]

Rear left door :

 

[EVPower]

Rear Left door panel :

Same as car Left Front door panel : passing by car are less louder and speaker sound are way better.

 

[EVPower]

I just bought 16mil vinyl plastic to block most open noise hole in the door trunk with some silicone.

@hobbit : you gave me the idea to clock the hood too

 

[EVPower]

now the trunk area part 1 :

 

[EVPower]

now the trunk area part 2 :

 

[EVPower]

trunk door completely done

The vinyl is at least two time thicker then stock door vinyl.

 

[EVPower]

front hood done with stock protection install.

 

[EVPower]

Front Right undercarpet :

Didn't broke clips this time from the plastic panel on the right but wasn't able to completely remove it from both holding pin.

Carpet is not possible to remove without remove all the bolt of the dash. Didn't want to make that kind of removal but my works seem ok.

 

[EVPower]

Front Right side access, glove box and torsion bar :

 

[EVPower]

rear passenger :

Way more easier to remove the back passenger seat than thought : two screws from the trunk and pull. This is the place where the metal sounded more hollow then every other places that I've done.

Cannot finish because I need to buy more Sound deadening mat. For now, it's track ready

 

[EVPower]

rear passenger completely done:

Almost everything is reassembled. Will take time to sound test now.

 

[electriceddy]

rear passenger completely done:

Almost everything is reassembled. Will take time to sound test now.

Look forward to the results.
I must thank you for all the pictures ... really appreciated. I have bookmarked this thread (for future reference) as to what is/and locations under all that interior camouflage.
Do you mind if I ask what tools you have used to remove various panels etc?
One suggestion, perhaps a blog is in order for quick reference, posts/threads seem to get harder to locate after time (no shortage of those on this forum)

 

[EVPower]

DB : 41 (min) / 72 (avg) / 81 (max)

So if I remember correctly, same as before.

The result wasn't what I would like but yesterday I follow the same 40km but I caught many construction and detour, so the sound test should be taken a good grain of salt because isn't a good apple to apple comparison.

The bottom passenger panel wasn't installed and the left rear is not completely seal because I need to finish install the trailer wiring. So I have some variable.

I would add that the started taking db using my phone in the cup holder, not the best place I know but easier to quickly check the sound level when driving alone.

What I can tell is : the noise in all rear passengers is half lower now. The only sound that I hear is from both right door that I haven't done yep. But still road noise is present in the front. Will keep trying to figure it out.T

I'm kind of cheap, so the tools I used : flat and star screwdriver, putty knife for small pin,Mini-Pliers and rolling for deadening material.

I'm don't have a blog but I understand that it could be something usefull to keep this information.I would ask hobbit, If I wanted this informations on his website. I will be more able to highlight some pitfall that I found and help our community.

 

[hobbit]

I:ve been following this thread too, and greatly appreciatimg all the disassembly pictures as a
good reference. Sometimes it"s hard to determine exactly what is holding a given piece of
trim on, and still avoid simply pulling harder and breaking something. Careful pre-bending and
a good flashlight helps. I have a couple of flat plastic tools whose original intent is unclear --
smoothing down tape, perhaps, or mar-free scraping? Anyway, those work well for a gentle pry.

But I hadn:t really thought about the sound angle at all, until today when I realized that there
is one distinct characteristic that I've sort of always subconsciously noticed, but dismissed
as normal. I still will dismiss it since I run with windows open and it totally doesn't matter,
but now I can quantify it. There seems to be a whole-body resonance peak right around 220
Hz, or an octave down from concert A minus a smidge, and I can hum along with it to really
bring it "out of the mix". It is completely independent of speed, so it's not tires.

Since I have the rear seat cushion out but the seatbacks up at the moment, perhaps more of
it was coming through/from that body panel with the service-plug access. Anyway, I went back
through the thread a bit to see if any *spectral* analysis had been done. EVPower, was there
any particular phase of installation that gave a really significant drop? That might point to the
resonant bits. I suppose I could crawl around knocking on pieces of body and see if I detect
that same overtone ... it's clear that as soon as motion begns at all, some part is reliably getting
stimulated and responding the only way it can.

Do those glued-on pads of stuff simply try to damp that sort of thing? Does exact position and
angle matter to their effectiveness? I would think there are some pretty complex vibration
nodes going on.

_H*