The fuse in the fuse box is actually too small for the cable. It is a micro fuse. You must purchase a 7.5 amp mini fuse to insert into the bypass switch.
How to disable VESS (Virtual Engine Sound System) on 2020 (US)
- Thread starter Nelson1994
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Robert Besen
Member
Great, thanks for the quick response.
Robert Besen
Member
I installed this switch today. It was very easy to install and it works like a charm. I cut away some of the plastic tube that comes on the cable to make it easier to fit behind the fuse panel cover. And fortuitously, the switch fits very well in the fuse panel cover slot and you can use the plastic nut that comes on the switch to mount it fairly rigidly to the panel cover.
Thanks again to RSB515.
Thanks again to RSB515.
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
not in all cases, definitely not for the US vehicles. I investigated this:
https://elmassian.com/index.php/electronics-aamp-gadgets/vehicles/kia-niro-ev
You will see I checked out the wiring harness, etc.
https://elmassian.com/index.php/electronics-aamp-gadgets/vehicles/kia-niro-ev
You will see I checked out the wiring harness, etc.
Robert Besen
Member
I think JamesS is talking about getting the factory switch from Kia and retrofitting it to the fuse bypass cable. Then you could mount it in the blank switch location above the fuse panel. I think it's a good idea, but it would have to be a single pole, single throw switch, rather than a momentary push button.
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
Sorry, you are right, did not read carefully...
Yeah, probably a way, but those switches are momentary, so you would need a little circuitry to toggle a little flip flop or 555 timer chip and then a relay, so it could become a bit of a task.
Do-able, but not simple.
Greg
Yeah, probably a way, but those switches are momentary, so you would need a little circuitry to toggle a little flip flop or 555 timer chip and then a relay, so it could become a bit of a task.
Do-able, but not simple.
Greg
Robert Besen
Member
Maybe a mechanical push on/push off switch could be found that would fit.
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
Well, it is a module with 4 switches, finding a on-off push switch that would be exactly the same size and mount with the same profile would be tough.
Did you look at the link and see the construction of the switch module?
Would be better to make the little on/off circuit, again it's a 5 amp circuit as I remember...
Greg
Did you look at the link and see the construction of the switch module?
Would be better to make the little on/off circuit, again it's a 5 amp circuit as I remember...
Greg
Robert Besen
Member
I did look at your link (and thanks for all the info you present) but I don't know the spacing between the board and the switch panel. I just wondered if the right size switch could be squeezed in but I realize it's unlikely. I'm happy with how the switch that comes with the fuse bypass cable fits in the fuse panel cover.
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
I see, you might be able to squeeze in a dome/membrane momentary, like in a TV remote, but a latching on/off takes significantly more depth.
Could you drill out the space behind the "dummy" switch? Very doubtful, you would have to cut traces and wire around the cut traces at least on this side, and I don't remember what's on the other side...
So, as I work in the electronics industry, you would put a momentary switch there, and separate electronics to latch a relay on and off..
A lot of work... perhaps buying the switch assembly for a car that has the switch, but it would be expensive of course, and you STILL would have to add electronics.
Greg
Could you drill out the space behind the "dummy" switch? Very doubtful, you would have to cut traces and wire around the cut traces at least on this side, and I don't remember what's on the other side...
So, as I work in the electronics industry, you would put a momentary switch there, and separate electronics to latch a relay on and off..
A lot of work... perhaps buying the switch assembly for a car that has the switch, but it would be expensive of course, and you STILL would have to add electronics.
Greg
Thanks for sharing Greg! I'm my mind I was thinking about how switches were wired pre-1980. I think getting in between a switch and the circuit board is more than I want to get into. I'll choose to be happy just that I have a switch within arms reach.I see, you might be able to squeeze in a dome/membrane momentary, like in a TV remote, but a latching on/off takes significantly more depth.
Could you drill out the space behind the "dummy" switch? Very doubtful, you would have to cut traces and wire around the cut traces at least on this side, and I don't remember what's on the other side...
So, as I work in the electronics industry, you would put a momentary switch there, and separate electronics to latch a relay on and off..
A lot of work... perhaps buying the switch assembly for a car that has the switch, but it would be expensive of course, and you STILL would have to add electronics.
Greg
Lauren Manley
New Member
Thank you!! This worked perfectly and easily on my 2020 Niro LXS and I just flip the switch when I want to be able to back up without everyone in a 2 mile radius hearing me. Fantastic!!
Glad it works well for you!
Sindhu Rumpler
New Member
your advice saves my day!! The VESS is the ONLY thing I really really dislike on my car . I already look for parking where I don't need to back up, totally ridiculous. I ordered the switch already- Mahalo (thank you in hawaiian ) from Maui
Sindhu Rumpler
New Member
Please tell me which number the fuse is . I don't see memory 2 fuse and there are quite a few 7.5 amp fuses. Thanks!
hollycenations
New Member
So I'm doing some research to try and do this fix... but in my owner's manual, MEMORY 2 covers Active Air Flap Unit and VESS. My vehicle is a 2020 Kia Niro LXS, and I noticed someone else on here said it worked on their LXS.. but I'm just trying to make sure I'm understanding what I'm doing before acting! Does this sound right?? Not to mention, I also see VESS under MODULE 4... :|
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
Without a schematic or accurate manual, you will be experimenting... all you can do is try to get the documentation or experiment
I'm not willing to try it until I have good data... but experimenting probably won't cause permanent damage.
Greg
I'm not willing to try it until I have good data... but experimenting probably won't cause permanent damage.
Greg
David T in Silicon Valley
Active Member
This video has a great step by step video for how to unplug the speaker.
Note that doing this and driving the car violates a federal road safety regulation and would put you at risk of a ticket.
As for the BATT_COOL_EXV system, I recently took a long trip and did a fair amount of fast charging en route. On 50 kW or higher chargers after a point I did hear a fan kick in that immediately cut off when the car throttled down the charge rate to around 24 kWh at 70% full. I suspect this circuit controls this fan and it is important to keep your battery safe during fast charging at higher rates. Maybe it kicks in too driving long distances on a hot day, but I am unsure if I would have noticed it at highway speeds.
So, you can pull that fuse by YMMV.
I also wonder if unplugging the speaker as shown in the video above ALSO disables that fan. I don't know if it would, but it is strange that there are four leads going into the speaker. Why would it need any more than two (though if the electronics that generate the signal for the speaker are also in the module, that could be the explanation. Would have to disassemble that module to know)? Does the battery fan system run out of that module too? IS it daisy chained with the fan system so breaking the circuit will disable the fan? Might need to do some fast charging experiments to see....
Note that doing this and driving the car violates a federal road safety regulation and would put you at risk of a ticket.
As for the BATT_COOL_EXV system, I recently took a long trip and did a fair amount of fast charging en route. On 50 kW or higher chargers after a point I did hear a fan kick in that immediately cut off when the car throttled down the charge rate to around 24 kWh at 70% full. I suspect this circuit controls this fan and it is important to keep your battery safe during fast charging at higher rates. Maybe it kicks in too driving long distances on a hot day, but I am unsure if I would have noticed it at highway speeds.
So, you can pull that fuse by YMMV.
I also wonder if unplugging the speaker as shown in the video above ALSO disables that fan. I don't know if it would, but it is strange that there are four leads going into the speaker. Why would it need any more than two (though if the electronics that generate the signal for the speaker are also in the module, that could be the explanation. Would have to disassemble that module to know)? Does the battery fan system run out of that module too? IS it daisy chained with the fan system so breaking the circuit will disable the fan? Might need to do some fast charging experiments to see....
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
hopefully you read some of this thread in the beginning....
you would find that this "speaker" is a can bus device
you would also find that some models have a defeat button in the dash that goes back to the device.
That should make it clear why there are more wires... the fan has nothing to do with the VESS noise unit.
Greg
you would find that this "speaker" is a can bus device
you would also find that some models have a defeat button in the dash that goes back to the device.
That should make it clear why there are more wires... the fan has nothing to do with the VESS noise unit.
Greg