Yes, as I stated in my post, I grounded that wire, it shuts up the chime.
How to disable VESS (Virtual Engine Sound System) on 2020 (US)
- Thread starter Nelson1994
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So I was thinking, a double throw center off switch. On side is momentary so you can sneak out of the garage without waking the neighborhood.
The other side is latching and wired to a delay relay. The relay stays on for 5 seconds, enough for one chime. It wakes the dead, should be enough to make most people turn around and take notice. Delay relays are pretty common, even adjustable delay relays.
The wiring diagrams are chopped up into little pieces, which is semi convenient for troubleshooting, but lacks a systemic overview. Point being if we could grab the backup light wire somewhere local, it would be pretty easy to do.
The other side is latching and wired to a delay relay. The relay stays on for 5 seconds, enough for one chime. It wakes the dead, should be enough to make most people turn around and take notice. Delay relays are pretty common, even adjustable delay relays.
The wiring diagrams are chopped up into little pieces, which is semi convenient for troubleshooting, but lacks a systemic overview. Point being if we could grab the backup light wire somewhere local, it would be pretty easy to do.
Just a note, on my Kona I grounded it through a 200 ohm resistor (as per the European schematics). I know , different car but it appears to use the same electronics. That would be the resistor solder points on the panel switch board in Greg's blog.
https://insideevsforum.com/communit...ifications-and-tweaks.5009/page-8#post-105992
Picture of the pad schematic here showing the resistor:
https://insideevsforum.com/communit...-virtual-engine-sound-system.5821/#post-67494
https://insideevsforum.com/communit...ifications-and-tweaks.5009/page-8#post-105992
Picture of the pad schematic here showing the resistor:
https://insideevsforum.com/communit...-virtual-engine-sound-system.5821/#post-67494
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OK, so the pinout seems different, and the internal logic[per the schematic for the 2020] is also different
I have a feeling the resistor is not a bad idea, limiting current if there is a short in the aftermarket wiring.
As Greg and others have correctly pointed out, the 2020 is very different from earlier years
Connector EM11 should be in the top left dash area
Pin 33[brown] is the back up light signal
Pin 45[blue/black] is the VSS defeat
If accessible it should make wiring a relay to only turn off the reverse chime easy
One could also use a delay relay to allow a single chime, which I think is pretty good
Pin 33[brown] is the back up light signal
Pin 45[blue/black] is the VSS defeat
If accessible it should make wiring a relay to only turn off the reverse chime easy
One could also use a delay relay to allow a single chime, which I think is pretty good
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
I had breakfast today;
Did the first one go down well?I had breakfast today;
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
So you grounded the wire at the connector in the engine compartment?
From reading your post, it implied you already grounded the wire at the panel in the car.
Which is it please?
From reading your post, it implied you already grounded the wire at the panel in the car.
Which is it please?
I implied nothing,
<<<it takes some trim tools and one [1] Philips head screw to access the back of the switch panel, and however you chose to do it[ I stuck a wire into the back of the connector and grounded to a nearby screw as a test]>>>
I stated I removed the panel and ran a ground wire to the back of the connector
Behind the dash
The connector I could not locate was EM11
<<<it takes some trim tools and one [1] Philips head screw to access the back of the switch panel, and however you chose to do it[ I stuck a wire into the back of the connector and grounded to a nearby screw as a test]>>>
I stated I removed the panel and ran a ground wire to the back of the connector
Behind the dash
The connector I could not locate was EM11
David T in Silicon Valley
Active Member
I had breakfast today;
You are so screwed now....
https://www.discovermagazine.com/pl...ows-pass-on-their-anger-to-family-and-friends
https://www.discovermagazine.com/pl...ows-pass-on-their-anger-to-family-and-friends
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
You are surprised at my confusion?
I give up trying to explain it to you.
What I said is I did not think the control wire came to the connector in the back of the switch panel.
You said I was wrong, and that you tested it, now you are saying something else, looks like some other connector that you won't identify or something on the fuzzy pictures you posted.
It's easy to pull the panel out and then disconnect the connector. Please check the connector I have been talking about the whole time.
Alternatively, instead of me having to guess what connector you used and then you tell me that's the wrong connector, identify where the connector is that you actually tested.
I give up trying to explain it to you.
What I said is I did not think the control wire came to the connector in the back of the switch panel.
You said I was wrong, and that you tested it, now you are saying something else, looks like some other connector that you won't identify or something on the fuzzy pictures you posted.
It's easy to pull the panel out and then disconnect the connector. Please check the connector I have been talking about the whole time.
Alternatively, instead of me having to guess what connector you used and then you tell me that's the wrong connector, identify where the connector is that you actually tested.
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This is what you said:
>>>The VESS defeat wire does not make it to the panel where the switch would be..<<
and
>>Those 2 wires for the VESS do NOT come to the dashboard.<<
pretty declarative, not 'I did not think'
You were wrong. I said:
>>>>
The wires do in fact go into the car, to the connector you pictured
Grounding the blue/black wire does in fact shut the VESS off.
......
I will post some details, but in the end it takes some trim tools and one [1] Philips head screw to access the back of the switch panel, and however you chose to do it[ I stuck a wire into the back of the connector and grounded to a nearby screw as a test]<<<<
I mentioned the connector you pictured, and taking the trim off, to anyone who is not trying to misread I think that is pretty clear.
Which is what I described doing
It is hard to imagine why you have to guess, I stated 'the connector you pictured' I could have said M26 but that is not what you called it and you seem to have difficulty reading schematics so I am not sure that would have mattered either. You seem to be confusing EM11 with the connector on the back of the switch, but there are clearly wires coming out of connector EM11 per the schematic
Sorry you cannot read the images I posted, on my computer the connectors and wire sizes and colors are clear enough
The path for the Blue/Black VESS wire is
E87[connector on unit behind grill]
EE01
EM11
M26[connector on back of switch panel]
I just read these from the image on this website, not from my original, so it is clear enough
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
OK so I am still correct in what I have been saying, until you "prove" the wire is present in the M26 on the back of the panel. I have been saying the wire is not in the M26 connector, or that the pins in the panel with the "missing switch" go to the M26 connector, i.e. they come to pins 13 and 16 and there are no wires in M26 on 13 and 16.
The EM11 connector is physically close enough, no need to go further, unless you have a quest to prove me wrong (and I would be happy to be wrong, that the wire is indeed there in the M26 connector, even more convenient).
It appears the EM11 is just upstream of the diagnostic connector, is this true? (the drawing is too hard to match the physical details of the locations)
The pictures you are posting are about 800 by 448 pixels, very low resolution... cannot you do a larger screen capture? Or maybe you have hit the limits of what can be embedded in the forum... maybe email the picture?
Greg
The EM11 connector is physically close enough, no need to go further, unless you have a quest to prove me wrong (and I would be happy to be wrong, that the wire is indeed there in the M26 connector, even more convenient).
It appears the EM11 is just upstream of the diagnostic connector, is this true? (the drawing is too hard to match the physical details of the locations)
The pictures you are posting are about 800 by 448 pixels, very low resolution... cannot you do a larger screen capture? Or maybe you have hit the limits of what can be embedded in the forum... maybe email the picture?
Greg
SO I cannot lay my hand on EM11, but I did find JM03. There are several one sided connectors up under the dash above the drivers left knee, pushed into black plastic hangers. They are just terminations, and one of them is JM03 with three brown wires and a bunch of grays. So that is a convenient pickup point for the reverse signal
Greg Elmassian
Active Member
so, is one of these wires the magic vess defeat wire? Otherwise I don't get how it helps.
Seems this is a blue wire with a black stripe right?
Not hassling you but it seems that we are going to have to tap into a wire somewhere unless you discover that I was wrong and the wire actually makes it to the switch panel connector.
I would like to buy the panel with all 4 buttons, but is there a left hand drive country that has the vess defeat? The panel is not the same between lhd and rhd.
Greg
Seems this is a blue wire with a black stripe right?
Not hassling you but it seems that we are going to have to tap into a wire somewhere unless you discover that I was wrong and the wire actually makes it to the switch panel connector.
I would like to buy the panel with all 4 buttons, but is there a left hand drive country that has the vess defeat? The panel is not the same between lhd and rhd.
Greg
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So, it is done.
First, it must be a momentary switch, if you use a latching switch it will revert to on. That is why there is a light indicator coming from the box, the pushbutton toggles the state of the VESS box active/inactive. So, power the car, push the button and the VESS is off until you restart the car[or push the button again]. SO if you need to back out of your condo complex spot you can push the button before putting it in reverse, and it will shut it up, and you can leave it off[forward and reverse are silenced] or just push it again and have it be normal for the rest of the trip.
Sadly my relay idea will not work.
Nor can you just put a jumper between pin 9[blue/black] and ground[I used pin 24 of connector M26], as it must be a momentary contact.
An idea for a circuit is rattling around my head to 'just' have it not beep in reverse, or beep once, but electronics is not my forte, so I may need to seek assistance. A pair of one shots and a relay......dunno
I have pics and will post a thread later, but I have other things to do.
First, it must be a momentary switch, if you use a latching switch it will revert to on. That is why there is a light indicator coming from the box, the pushbutton toggles the state of the VESS box active/inactive. So, power the car, push the button and the VESS is off until you restart the car[or push the button again]. SO if you need to back out of your condo complex spot you can push the button before putting it in reverse, and it will shut it up, and you can leave it off[forward and reverse are silenced] or just push it again and have it be normal for the rest of the trip.
Sadly my relay idea will not work.
Nor can you just put a jumper between pin 9[blue/black] and ground[I used pin 24 of connector M26], as it must be a momentary contact.
An idea for a circuit is rattling around my head to 'just' have it not beep in reverse, or beep once, but electronics is not my forte, so I may need to seek assistance. A pair of one shots and a relay......dunno
I have pics and will post a thread later, but I have other things to do.
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