Something else to consider: The cost of wear and tear on the engine. I would argue there is an X% difference in TCO between an ICE and electric motor. Many more moving parts and controls on the ICE. Maybe 10%? Not to mention those times you have to stop at the gas station and fill up the 7 gallon tank (which always makes me smile). You know...when it all goes to zero?
Has anyone figured out the Electric/Gas $ break even point for the Clarity?
- Thread starter Mark W
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The Gadgeteer
Active Member
It is probably not the best thing to do to run to zero gas.
Couldn't possibly be zero, because it was still running! Sometimes you gotta' ask yourself..."Do you feel lucky?"
Somebody! Throw this man a live preserver, er, extension cord!
David in TN
Well-Known Member
I think I have the best possible situation -- my wife pays our home electric bill. I can charge for free at one of my work places.
Current electric rate is about $0.09 kwh. Gas is $1.89 gallon.
I'm about 2200 miles. I've spent $42 on gas and have more than half tank remaining.
My previous Honda, I was averaging $130 per month in gas.
(( happy dance ))
Sent from my SM-N960U using Inside EVs mobile app
Current electric rate is about $0.09 kwh. Gas is $1.89 gallon.
I'm about 2200 miles. I've spent $42 on gas and have more than half tank remaining.
My previous Honda, I was averaging $130 per month in gas.
(( happy dance ))
Sent from my SM-N960U using Inside EVs mobile app
Robin
Member
First off, thank you for this! I've done my own calcs but didn't think to graph it lol
Question: on battery size; should this be adjusted for the efficiency loss? Something like 20% for L1, and 10% for L2? So our 17 kWh capacity should be 21.25 (L1) - 18.89 (L2)? I've been using 20 kWh for my calcs.
izudin
Member
In principle it should be adjusted for the losses, but I think these number should be lower than what you have suggested.
I will also modify the spreadsheet adding charger efficiency factor as the input parameter.
I will monitor how much AC energy I use for charging between different battery states (with Honda provided L1 charger) for some time to determine what that factor would be for that charger.
The Gadgeteer
Active Member
I will double check by putting a meter on the plug of the charging cord the next time I do a full charge but I believe a charge from "empty" 2 bars on a 120 volt cord is about 14 WK. Remember the battery never fully depletes to prolong the battery life.
I was going to ask about that -- I understand the battery is marketed as 17kWh, but unless Honda actually put a higher capacity physical battery, they have to be basing the 47 mile electric range on the usable portion of the battery (i.e. from "charging stops" to "car stops running in EV-only mode"), which is probably closer to 14-15kWh. That would put EV driving at 45/15 (to make the math easier!) or 3.0 miles/kWh. Anyone with a cumulative kWh display on their EVSE should be able to measure their actual MPkWh over a few trip types to get the real number.
Similarly, you have to measure your MPG, which is harder to do on a plug-in hybrid, but can be done in HV mode or by filling up when the EV range is 0, driving a few trips, and filling up again.
If we assume 40MPG on gas, at $3/gallon that should be $.075/mile. Electricity assuming 3.0MPkWh at $.225/kWh cost would also be $.075/mile.
Disclaimer: I don't have a Clarity yet (need to test drive and decide whether I want to go that way or a more "fun" manual transmission Civic), but find these threads very helpful and have been running numbers myself. Lucky to have a reasonable rate here for overnight charging ($.10/kWh); in fact anything except 5-8PM weekdays ($.28/kWh then) might still be a win for charging.
izudin
Member
I have added input fields for entering a charger efficiency, for both primary and secondary charging locations.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/114yqwA4tl6sNXdoIgwcsZd6JNAX8M3Lz/view?usp=drivesdk