Electrician cost to add Level 2 240V outlet

Q

quietlyspinach

Active Member
I'm in the USA. I'm curious how much you paid your electrician to add a 240V outlet to run your EVSE (not including the EVSE itself). I'd like to just get a 14-30 or 14-50 outlet installed so I can replace the EVSE myself in case there are problems and I need to send it back for warranty service without having to call an electrician to remove it.

Every time I ask this question, people get evasive and say "prices vary" but really, how much variance are talking about? High and low end? Did anyone pay more than $3000 to have this work done? Less than $500?
 
quietlyspinach said:
I'm in the USA. I'm curious how much you paid your electrician to add a 240V outlet to run your EVSE (not including the EVSE itself). I'd like to just get a 14-30 or 14-50 outlet installed so I can replace the EVSE myself in case there are problems and I need to send it back for warranty service without having to call an electrician to remove it.

Every time I ask this question, people get evasive and say "prices vary" but really, how much variance are talking about? High and low end? Did anyone pay more than $3000 to have this work done? Less than $500?
Click to expand...
Disconnecting/reconnecting a hard-wired EVSE is trivial (assuming you remember to turn off the circuit-breaker first). A hard-wired EVSE is less-prone to theft, too. Some regulations require a redundant GFCI for plug-in EVSEs. One more thing: decide in advance if you will need your EVSE wired to a separate meter for Time-of-Use or electric-vehicle-charging discounts from your power company.

The number of cost variables for installing 240-Volt/40-Amp service is large. Many people already have 240-Volts in their garage while some don't even have 100-Amp service coming into their homes. The distance between the circuit-box and the EVSE is another significant cost-variable. I paid $800 to have a 15-foot trench dug between the house and garage and for the installation of a 60-Amp circuit box in that garage. I wired the EVSE myself--bending 6-gauge wire is tough and I had to use a hacksaw to cut it.
 
Last edited:
My 50-amp circuit and cable run through attic and walls (60 feet, ish) cost $650 in South Carolina. I had another quote for $1,400, so it can help to get multiple quotes. I agree with other members who say that electricians hear "EV" and the price climbs quickly. The $1,400 electrician I have used multiple times in the past with reasonable rates. But they went crazy on the EV cabling quote.
 
I installed a 50A 14-50 outlet myself so can only provide a gauge of material costs:
  • 14-50 Outlet ($34): industrial quality Bryant 9450FR
  • 50A Breaker ($26): Eaton BR250
  • Wire ($3.54/ft, $212 total): 60ft of 6/3 NM-B
  • Permit ($100): permit cost in Oregon
  • Other ($30): outlet box, clamps, face plate, etc
Total material cost: $402

Running the wire was not easy since I have a finished garage with a 2nd story over about 2/3s of it and the 6/3 NM-B wire is about the size of a garden hose.

The install was broken over about 3 days but I'd guess it took me a total of 10hrs of work with most of that just to run the wire.
 
I've mentioned this in another thread but it's important to tell the electrician that the install is for an EV because the wire and code requirements are different for a "continuous duty" appliance like an EVSE (you can only use 80% of the rated circuit capacity, so 50A breaker/wire for 40A EVSE)

One strategy could be to get a quote for just a 240v outlet then afterwards mention that it's for an EV and see how much it increases. The electrician will have to increase the wire gauge so material costs will go up and labor will probably also increase a bit because the chunky wire is difficult to deal with but it shouldn't be a huge difference.
 
I am an example of a high-cost install, having paid more than $3000. I had a second meter and an additional breaker panel installed, plus I have two garages and ran 240 V service to each. My install involved trenching from the meter to the garage where the circuit breaker panel was installed. My house design precluded running new lines from the main circuit breaker panel to the garage. So I basically had everything possible done, but it was completely worth it. And I got the $1000 federal tax refund for installing the charging equipment.
 
$900 for a tricky 70 ft outdoor run. 6 AWG and high quality NEMA 14-50R receptacle.

Not sure if the EVSE tax credit is still in play. Keep an eye out.

Also, sometimes electricians think EV = $$$, so get at least a few quotes.
 
Thanks everyone who has replied so far, this has been very useful and interesting!

I'm fortunate in that I have an existing 200A panel. I have 240V wiring to my garage already because there is a 10-30 dryer outlet connected to a dedicated ganged 30A breaker; however, it's condition is unknown because I've never used the dryer outlet in the 10 years I've owned this house. How do you even test whether this wiring is safe to use?

So I'm assuming I will have to run new wiring anyway, and the route I'm thinking of will be between 80-100ft from the panel to the spot on the garage. So it appears I should not be surprised if it costs in the ballpark of $1000.
 
Last edited:
quietlyspinach said:
Thanks everyone who has replied so far, this has been very useful and interesting!

I'm fortunate in that I have an existing 200A panel. I have 240V wiring to my garage already because there is a 10-30 dryer outlet connected to a dedicated ganged 30A breaker; however, it's condition is unknown because I've never used the dryer outlet in the 10 years I've owned this house. How do you even test whether this wiring is safe to use?

So I'm assuming I will have to run new wiring anyway, and the route I'm thinking of will be between 80-100ft from the panel to the spot on the garage. So it appears I should not be surprised if it costs in the ballpark of $1000.
Click to expand...
Assuming you don't have knob-and-tube wiring, I expect that dryer outlet is safe. If you want to save money and accept a slightly slower charging speed, you could buy an EVSE such as the Grizzl-E that will let you set the maximum current to 16, 24, or 32 Amps, set the dip switches to 24 Amps and plug it into your garage dryer outlet. Later, if you decide the charging speed is too slow, you can spend the money to upgrade the wiring and circuit breaker to support the 32-Amp setting, which matches the maximum 31.8 Amps of AC current the North-American version of the MINI Cooper SE can accept.
 
I definitely do not have knob-and-tube wiring - I have friends who live in very old turn of the century houses that have that. My wiring is more like 1980's old. I've read articles that say if your wiring is older than 40 years you might consider getting it updated. Well, the 1980s are now 40 years ago! So I'm kind of wondering if 1980s wiring is *really* that unsafe, or is this really out of date?
 
quietlyspinach said:
Every time I ask this question, people get evasive and say "prices vary" but really, how much variance are talking about? High and low end? Did anyone pay more than $3000 to have this work done? Less than $500?
Click to expand...

Well, I'm under $500. Total of $300. Wanted to do it myself but wife preferred having an electrician do it.
Had a 200A main panel and a 70a subpanel in basement. Only 25 feet to garage in unfinished portion of basement. $100 parts and $200 labor.

  • 14-50 Outlet
  • 40A Breaker
  • Wire 25ft of 6/3 NM-B
 
The electrical contractor I hired warned me that a NEMA 14-50 install for an EVSE could run higher than normal. $400-$700, depending on the work required.

The electrician installed the 50A breaker, ran the correct gauge wire to a waterproof outlet to my driveway, and even installed my juice box charger for me. When done, he asked if the person doing the estimate told me the price had gone up to $850 for EVSE installation. I said no and told him the initial estimate. He responded OK, and just charged me I think $450 for the full project.

I was happy with the price and the work. And (happily) surprised he had installed a non-GFCI breaker for my outdoor, non-hardwired charger.
 
quietlyspinach said:
Thanks everyone who has replied so far, this has been very useful and interesting!

I'm fortunate in that I have an existing 200A panel. I have 240V wiring to my garage already because there is a 10-30 dryer outlet connected to a dedicated ganged 30A breaker; however, it's condition is unknown because I've never used the dryer outlet in the 10 years I've owned this house. How do you even test whether this wiring is safe to use?

So I'm assuming I will have to run new wiring anyway, and the route I'm thinking of will be between 80-100ft from the panel to the spot on the garage. So it appears I should not be surprised if it costs in the ballpark of $1000.
Click to expand...

Mine was an absurdly short distance and only 40a and it was $950. A cheaper bid was from someone who would have required a load analysis to do more than 30a, and that would have cost even more.

Of course, nothing is cheap where I live.
 
Closing on a house in Denver in two weeks, so I had a quote done while the home inspection was taking place. $6800 for two 75ft and 55ft dedicated 50AMP circuits to hardwired Chargepoints. Will get a few more quotes. This is from a newer 200AMP Panel on the other side of the home.
 
Adding another data point - I'm in a multi-level townhouse with an HOA. Had an electrician come out and give an estimate - my breaker panel is on the top floor for some reason, along a wall with a staircase. Electrician said we'd have to route wiring out the attic and down the front of the house to install an outlet or EVSE next to the garage door. About $1300 for that. Have submitted an application to the HOA, we'll see. Oregon is a right to charge state though but I think we may be the first to install one in our complex.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top