Clarity Issues

[coolmen777]

Hi Clarity owners. I am a potential buyer but current owner of 2008 Altima Hybrid thinking of upgrading later this year. I have read and seen almost all video reviews on the car and still have few unanswered questions.
1. How is the power (0-60) of the car in the best mode (assuming Sport?) My current Altima with 2.5L and electric motor does it in under 7 sec (details of HP and specs here). I realize the 1.5L in Clarity won't even be close, but what is realistic (8 sec?) I understand this is not a performance model and the mpg takes the higher priority then power, but being a young driver (37) I do like my next ride to have more power then Civic or Prius (do realize EVs have great torque and feeling of instant power). Want something that is "Fun to Drive" like my Altima.
2. How good is the stock 8 speaker sound system? Again trying to compare to a 10 speaker Bose Premium sound in my Altima which is probably an unfair comparison. Are there OEM upgrade options available (Civic touring uses 10 speaker 450W system) or only aftermarket? It is hard to downgrade after been exposed to something of a class above. I am a somewhat of an audiophile and can tell the difference. Any comments from owners? Thanks.

 

[loomis2]

1. 0-60 is rated at 7.6 seconds

2. I think the stock speakers sound very good. The car is very quiet so the speakers are very noticeable.

 

[Kendalf]

1. How is the power (0-60) of the car in the best mode (assuming Sport?) My current Altima with 2.5L and electric motor does it in under 7 sec (details of HP and specs here). I realize the 1.5L in Clarity won't even be close, but what is realistic (8 sec?) I understand this is not a performance model and the mpg takes the higher priority then power, but being a young driver (37) I do like my next ride to have more power then Civic or Prius (do realize EVs have great torque and feeling of instant power). Want something that is "Fun to Drive" like my Altima.
2. How good is the stock 8 speaker sound system? Again trying to compare to a 10 speaker Bose Premium sound in my Altima which is probably an unfair comparison. Are there OEM upgrade options available (Civic touring uses 10 speaker 450W system) or only aftermarket? It is hard to downgrade after been exposed to something of a class above. I am a somewhat of an audiophile and can tell the difference. Any comments from owners? Thanks.

If these two points are important to you, I think the Clarity would not be the right car. The acceleration and sound system in the Clarity are decent, but in comparison to what you're used to you will likely be disappointed.

Hard acceleration will cause the ICE to start up, and the Clarity is a very heavy vehicle. The 0-60 times that I've seen published run from low 8 to mid 9 second times.

If you are an audiophile you will not be happy with the stock Clarity sounds system, and it may be difficult to change to an aftermarket setup.

 

[Johngalt6146]

coolmen:

1- On my test drive I checked acceleration from various speeds, since I thought that might be a problem. It definitely is more than adequate. To assure yourself, take a test drive.

2 - I traded a 2010 Infiniti G-37 (3.7 L V6) with a Bose sound system. I am also somewhat of an audio guru and an electrical engineer. The sound system in the Clarity is very good, and comparable to that in the Infiniti. As someone else noted, the car is extremely quite - like a Library on wheels. You will enjoy the great sound. (Bose's 450 W of acoustic power is great and provides lots of reserve, but most of the time you will be listening at only a few watts of power, if that much.)

3 - My drives are usually less than 40 miles RT. Thus, another positive point is that I never have to buy gas. Even in pure gas mode the mpg is 40 or more, even with the AC on.

To be complete and fair, here are some of the negative points:

1 - HV range gauge is way off.
2 - Styling could be better.
3 - Visibility is good, but lacks option for rear cross traffic alerts.

 

[AlanSqB]

Do what I did, get yourself a Civic Si to get yourself over that “fun to drive” craving. I had one for a year and really enjoyed it, but I was done. I’m now all-in for the lux, but still sporty, feel of cars like the Clarity.

I now don’t dread my occasional 120mi RT commutes to the big city. The car is just comfy and quiet.

 

[AlanSqB]

Also, I’m guessing there will be some room for aftermarket audio upgrades. I’m going to wait a little bit and then plan to add some upgraded speakers and a small powered sub.

 

[Rajiv Vaidyanathan]

1. How is the power (0-60) of the car in the best mode (assuming Sport?)
2. How good is the stock 8 speaker sound system?

My opinion is that you'll find the instant torque compensates for the lower power. The torque makes it fun to drive.

I'm almost certain yoully be very disappointed by the stock audio system. I thought the stock sound system on my 2009 Nissan Altima sounded MUCH better than the Clarity.

 

[KentuckyKen]

Hi Clarity owners. I am a potential buyer but current owner of 2008 Altima Hybrid thinking of upgrading later this year. I have read and seen almost all video reviews on the car and still have few unanswered questions.
1. How is the power (0-60) of the car in the best mode (assuming Sport?) My current Altima with 2.5L and electric motor does it in under 7 sec (details of HP and specs here). I realize the 1.5L in Clarity won't even be close, but what is realistic (8 sec?) I understand this is not a performance model and the mpg takes the higher priority then power, but being a young driver (37) I do like my next ride to have more power then Civic or Prius (do realize EVs have great torque and feeling of instant power). Want something that is "Fun to Drive" like my Altima.
2. How good is the stock 8 speaker sound system? Again trying to compare to a 10 speaker Bose Premium sound in my Altima which is probably an unfair comparison. Are there OEM upgrade options available (Civic touring uses 10 speaker 450W system) or only aftermarket? It is hard to downgrade after been exposed to something of a class above. I am a somewhat of an audiophile and can tell the difference. Any comments from owners? Thanks.

1. Ditto for what Rajiv said about instant torque. You’ll blow the doors off most people 0-30 mph with just battery. If you want 0-60 power not so much and you get less over all benefit form augmenting w ICE. One notable freature is that the battery pack is mounted beneath floor for a very low center of gravity so hardly any body lean in cornering. You will like that. As said, test drive to be sure since sporty definition is different for you young whippersnappers.
2. As to stereo. It’s all subjective but for non audiophiles they are fine. An audiophile is going to want to upgrade. Fortunately, Critchfield, my go to car stereo gurus, actually has the Clarity on their pull done menu.
Here is what customer service told me:
Door midrange speakers can easily be replaced with just a bracket needed but tweeters will need glueing and custom work to install in OEM position.
Hope that helps you decide.
Here is the link to one suitable 2-way midrange speaker replacement from Critchfield:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_091RCX165/Focal-RCX-165.html?tp=78072

I didn’t inquire as to tweeters since at my age the top end of my hearing has dropped off and they wouldn’t benefit me.
Let us know if you pull the trigger and how dropping the hammer compares to your old Altima.

 

[brady]

if you are an "audiophile" as I am....any car audio should be somewhat off-putting? If we are comparing a car to a dedicated audioroom setup. Car has plenty of power.

 

[coolmen777]

Thanks everyone for your detailed feedback. I honestly wasn't expacting so much information. Here are my brief comments to some respondents.

1. 0-60 is rated at 7.6 seconds
2. I think the stock speakers sound very good. The car is very quiet so the speakers are very noticeable.

I find it hard to believe the 7.6 seconds. Are you sure you are not confusing this with new Accord (1.5T engine and much lighter while achieving the same 7.6 seconds). Thanks for the feedback about quietness and subjective information regarding stock speakers.

If these two points are important to you, I think the Clarity would not be the right car. The acceleration and sound system in the Clarity are decent, but in comparison to what you're used to you will likely be disappointed.
Hard acceleration will cause the ICE to start up, and the Clarity is a very heavy vehicle. The 0-60 times that I've seen published run from low 8 to mid 9 second times.
If you are an audiophile you will not be happy with the stock Clarity sounds system, and it may be difficult to change to an aftermarket setup.

I tend to agree with mid 8 to 9 seconds and with more torque I should be fine. Not much of a youngster (have 3 kids) but do like to hard the extra power when needed to accelerate. The Civic Si idea won't fly here, back seat needs to be larger to fit 2 boosters and 1 carseat and would be a downgrade in terms of size from my Altima.

coolmen:

1- On my test drive I checked acceleration from various speeds, since I thought that might be a problem. It definitely is more than adequate. To assure yourself, take a test drive.

2 - I traded a 2010 Infiniti G-37 (3.7 L V6) with a Bose sound system. I am also somewhat of an audio guru and an electrical engineer. The sound system in the Clarity is very good, and comparable to that in the Infiniti. As someone else noted, the car is extremely quite - like a Library on wheels. You will enjoy the great sound. (Bose's 450 W of acoustic power is great and provides lots of reserve, but most of the time you will be listening at only a few watts of power, if that much.)

Thanks for the comparison with G37. Quick google search showed a 7 speaker setup and many users complaining that its not up to typical Bose standards (See this thread). Not all Bose is made equal; my Altima has 10 speakers (with very powerful sub) which sounds simply amazing (best I have heard in any car and I have been in Infinity M45 with similar Bose setup). But I do agree that if the car is quieter, the volume and sound will be somewhat better.

My opinion is that you'll find the instant torque compensates for the lower power. The torque makes it fun to drive.

I'm almost certain yoully be very disappointed by the stock audio system. I thought the stock sound system on my 2009 Nissan Altima sounded MUCH better than the Clarity.

Thanks, this is what I am leaning towards as well, based on the responses so far. Just curious if it would be possible to re-transplant the Altima setup to Clarity with some mods (like speaker amps, etc). Might be too much hassle and might as well just go to aftermarket alternatives (thanks for Cratchfield idea, used them before as well for my Mazda 3 upgrades).

if you are an "audiophile" as I am....any car audio should be somewhat off-putting? If we are comparing a car to a dedicated audioroom setup. Car has plenty of power.

I guess Brady, you are corrent. I shouldn't exaggerate and claim the audiophile status, but I used to mix sound and tracks and had access to some high-end headphones and speakers so maybe a guru or something similar would be correct. I am not expacting perfect sound in the car, but I do spend 2 hours a day driving so was hoping to keep this time as enjoyable as possible. And I know by pro standards Bose (fun to listen signature) is not the best brand (I prefer more neutral/flat sound), but will take it over any stock setup.

If anyone has any other comments to this matter, I will gladly listen and will keep you updated when I make a jump(probably closer to summer). My work offers a flat $10/month unlimitted charging which is one of the big reasons to upgrade (in addition to needing a tax credit this year). With 17 mi each way, I probably won't even be charging at home at all (except maybe on weekends).

Does Touring with its suade interior makes sense for someone with kids (8, 6 and 2 yo?) Might be a mess to clean and maintain. I am a sole driver so don't really need power seats but would be nice to have a pre-conditioning option (if its not included in base model), although in Central California it never gets below freezing in the winter. Summer can be hot, but if lighter color cloth interior is chosen, might not really miss much. Does the Touring with its power seats and separate remotes which memorize settings for each remote, also memorize the mirror positions (thinking if my wife was to use it)?

One another confusion is the fun to drive phrase. The Car & Driver review mentions that the lower center of grivity doesn't help it but hurts in cornering and is not as engaging to drive as Accord (probably due to less weight). Link here (scroll down towards the end to Well Isolated and insulated section)

On the road, the Clarity feels a lot like an overloaded Accord. Honda says the plug-in Clarity has a curb weight that tops 4000 pounds, which makes it between 600 and 900 pounds heavier than the company’s family sedan. While the Clarity has a premium feel to its well-damped ride, the tidy handling of the new Accord is nowhere to be found, compromised by the many extra pounds of batteries under the back seat. Their placement gives the car a low center of gravity, but the Clarity feels as if it reaches the edge of its cornering limits prematurely, despite relatively wide 235/45R-18 tires. Steering effort is low, with plenty of electric assist and some feedback (but not a lot). Isolation from road and engine noise, however, is mostly excellent—at least until you encounter a steep hill with the battery depleted, in which case the little gas engine has to rev to the sky to keep the car moving.

Again, I am comparing to my existing hybrid Altima which by all reviews had great complements for fun to drive factor. (for a hybrid of that period). I did own a Mazda 3 hatch (2.3L) which would fall in this same cathegory as well. Any thoughts?

 

[loomis2]

That Car and Driver article is where I got the 7.6 seconds 0-60 mph figure. If you look at the specifications grey box on the right it lists it there. Also, yes, the key fobs are numbered 1 and 2 and they correspond to the driver's seat memory. So whichever fob is used to open the driver's door will then make the driver's seat move to that memory configuration.

 

[coolmen777]

That Car and Driver article is where I got the 7.6 seconds 0-60 mph figure. If you look at the specifications grey box on the right it lists it there. Also, yes, the key fobs are numbered 1 and 2 and they correspond to the driver's seat memory. So whichever fob is used to open the driver's door will then make the driver's seat move to that memory configuration.

Thanks loomis.
Is it just the setting for the seat or mirrors as well?

 

[AlanSqB]

Unfortunately it’s just the seats. It doesn’t do anything for the mirrors, climate control or the radio.

 

[LAF]

Thanks everyone for your detailed feedback. I honestly wasn't expacting so much information. Here are my brief comments to some respondents.



I find it hard to believe the 7.6 seconds. Are you sure you are not confusing this with new Accord (1.5T engine and much lighter while achieving the same 7.6 seconds). Thanks for the feedback about quietness and subjective information regarding stock speakers.



I tend to agree with mid 8 to 9 seconds and with more torque I should be fine. Not much of a youngster (have 3 kids) but do like to hard the extra power when needed to accelerate. The Civic Si idea won't fly here, back seat needs to be larger to fit 2 boosters and 1 carseat and would be a downgrade in terms of size from my Altima.



Thanks for the comparison with G37. Quick google search showed a 7 speaker setup and many users complaining that its not up to typical Bose standards (See this thread). Not all Bose is made equal; my Altima has 10 speakers (with very powerful sub) which sounds simply amazing (best I have heard in any car and I have been in Infinity M45 with similar Bose setup). But I do agree that if the car is quieter, the volume and sound will be somewhat better.



Thanks, this is what I am leaning towards as well, based on the responses so far. Just curious if it would be possible to re-transplant the Altima setup to Clarity with some mods (like speaker amps, etc). Might be too much hassle and might as well just go to aftermarket alternatives (thanks for Cratchfield idea, used them before as well for my Mazda 3 upgrades).


I guess Brady, you are corrent. I shouldn't exaggerate and claim the audiophile status, but I used to mix sound and tracks and had access to some high-end headphones and speakers so maybe a guru or something similar would be correct. I am not expacting perfect sound in the car, but I do spend 2 hours a day driving so was hoping to keep this time as enjoyable as possible. And I know by pro standards Bose (fun to listen signature) is not the best brand (I prefer more neutral/flat sound), but will take it over any stock setup.

If anyone has any other comments to this matter, I will gladly listen and will keep you updated when I make a jump(probably closer to summer). My work offers a flat $10/month unlimitted charging which is one of the big reasons to upgrade (in addition to needing a tax credit this year). With 17 mi each way, I probably won't even be charging at home at all (except maybe on weekends).

Does Touring with its suade interior makes sense for someone with kids (8, 6 and 2 yo?) Might be a mess to clean and maintain. I am a sole driver so don't really need power seats but would be nice to have a pre-conditioning option (if its not included in base model), although in Central California it never gets below freezing in the winter. Summer can be hot, but if lighter color cloth interior is chosen, might not really miss much. Does the Touring with its power seats and separate remotes which memorize settings for each remote, also memorize the mirror positions (thinking if my wife was to use it)?

One another confusion is the fun to drive phrase. The Car & Driver review mentions that the lower center of grivity doesn't help it but hurts in cornering and is not as engaging to drive as Accord (probably due to less weight). Link here (scroll down towards the end to Well Isolated and insulated section)

Again, I am comparing to my existing hybrid Altima which by all reviews had great complements for fun to drive factor. (for a hybrid of that period). I did own a Mazda 3 hatch (2.3L) which would fall in this same cathegory as well. Any thoughts?

Get the black interior, which would be much better for kids anyhow and the suede will be no problem.

 

[jdonalds]

Get the black interior, which would be much better for kids anyhow and the suede will be no problem.

In our case black would show dirt sooner, and with out intense sun the seats would be too hot to sit on.

 

[Kendalf]

Again, I am comparing to my existing hybrid Altima which by all reviews had great complements for fun to drive factor. (for a hybrid of that period). I did own a Mazda 3 hatch (2.3L) which would fall in this same cathegory as well. Any thoughts?

I came from a Mazda 3 hatch (manual transmission) to the Clarity. You certainly lose a great deal of the tossable nature and driving feel of the 3 (zoom-zoom!) but where I'm at in life I'm just looking for a serene commute, and with two kids (10&8) the backseat of the Clarity offers room to grow with their boosters. You feel the inertia of the car on those 270 degree freeway on-ramps, but I have to say the suspension does a good balance between comfortable ride and staying planted to the road. There isn't much body lean in sweeping turns.

 

[MBG]

New to the forum--thanks to all for adding insight/experience/recommendations. The comments that Ive read are much more helpful than reading the owners manual and contacting the dealership.

a few questions/observations that I havent seen asked (if I missed them in earlier posts, sorry for any redundancy)
- When my battery range says "0"-and my dashboard no-longer has "EV"- I still have 2 bars on my battery level charge meter (left hand side of the dash). Is that normal?
- At times, for no apparent reason, driving on same flat, city road (temp around 55), around 35-40 MPH, with battery fully charged, EV mode disappears, and I assume I am now in engine mode. Why does that happen?
- When battery is fully discharged, I hear loud revving sound at times- (as if its a car stuck in 2nd gear). It's not every time I accelerate, but it's quite often. I haven't figured out the pattern- but it stops as soon as I recharge the battery. Any thoughts?
- If I'm driving a long distance on the highway, after the battery becomes discharged, should HV mode be selected or does it not matter for fuel efficiency.

Thanks again

 

[Kendalf]

1. Yup, two bars at 0 range is normal. It's bad on lithium ion batteries for them to be completely discharged, so those two bars represents the buffer.

2. Are you accelerating or braking hard when the switch away from EV mode occurs? Accelerating such that the power gauge goes beyond the blue bar and into the white will turn the ICE on. One other cause for the ICE to switch on at full charge is if you try to put too much regenerative braking; the energy from regen has nowhere to go so the ICE turns on (not sure why that helps). I've had this happen several times in the morning when I'm a block away from my house going down a small hill and the ICE turns on, before realizing that it was the regen that was triggering this.

3. The loud revving is the engine running at high load to power the generator to try to recharge the battery (or maintain sufficient charge for the current load). The engine is not directly tied to the axle by a normal transmission and instead is being used to recharge, hence the disjunction between the engine revs and the actual speed that you're travelling.

4. If you're taking a longer highway trip and you will be doing more city driving at the end, then it will be more efficient to use HV mode while you're on the highway, in order to save battery charge for city driving when the ICE is much less efficient.

EDIT: Ah, I think I figured out that the ICE turns on when battery is full to provide engine braking as opposed to regenerative braking, since it appears the car cannot automatically activate the friction brakes without the brake pedal being depressed.

 

[MBG]

1. Yup, two bars at 0 range is normal. It's bad on lithium ion batteries for them to be completely discharged, so those two bars represents the buffer.

2. Are you accelerating or braking hard when the switch away from EV mode occurs? Accelerating such that the power gauge goes beyond the blue bar and into the white will turn the ICE on. One other cause for the ICE to switch on at full charge is if you try to put too much regenerative braking; the energy from regen has nowhere to go so the ICE turns on (not sure why that helps). I've had this happen several times in the morning when I'm a block away from my house going down a small hill and the ICE turns on, before realizing that it was the regen that was triggering this.

3. The loud revving is the engine running at high load to power the generator to try to recharge the battery (or maintain sufficient charge for the current load). The engine is not directly tied to the axle by a normal transmission and instead is being used to recharge, hence the disjunction between the engine revs and the actual speed that you're travelling.

4. If you're taking a longer highway trip and you will be doing more city driving at the end, then it will be more efficient to use HV mode while you're on the highway, in order to save battery charge for city driving when the ICE is much less efficient.

EDIT: Ah, I think I figured out that the ICE turns on when battery is full to provide engine braking as opposed to regenerative braking, since it appears the car cannot automatically activate the friction brakes without the brake pedal being depressed.

Than

1. Yup, two bars at 0 range is normal. It's bad on lithium ion batteries for them to be completely discharged, so those two bars represents the buffer.

2. Are you accelerating or braking hard when the switch away from EV mode occurs? Accelerating such that the power gauge goes beyond the blue bar and into the white will turn the ICE on. One other cause for the ICE to switch on at full charge is if you try to put too much regenerative braking; the energy from regen has nowhere to go so the ICE turns on (not sure why that helps). I've had this happen several times in the morning when I'm a block away from my house going down a small hill and the ICE turns on, before realizing that it was the regen that was triggering this.

3. The loud revving is the engine running at high load to power the generator to try to recharge the battery (or maintain sufficient charge for the current load). The engine is not directly tied to the axle by a normal transmission and instead is being used to recharge, hence the disjunction between the engine revs and the actual speed that you're travelling.

4. If you're taking a longer highway trip and you will be doing more city driving at the end, then it will be more efficient to use HV mode while you're on the highway, in order to save battery charge for city driving when the ICE is much less efficient.

EDIT: Ah, I think I figured out that the ICE turns on when battery is full to provide engine braking as opposed to regenerative braking, since it appears the car cannot automatically activate the friction brakes without the brake pedal being depressed.

KendalF: Thank you for your quick and helpful reply.
With regard to #2: I am not accelerating/braking hard--but could be the regenerative breaking- I'll try and notice next time it happens. With regard to #3: so, does the revving sound go away or lessen? ( I actually havent been on any long trips yet using very little gas, so have only had to put up with the revving for a few miles til I get home and recharge) Also, a bit confused, Will my driving in engine (gas/HV) mode be able to recharge the battery?
And one more question- Other than HondaLink which I find mostly useless, is there a way when I power off my car to tell how much % battery life is left, and how long it will take to recharge? ...or is it just a guesstimate based on how many bars are left on the gauge? (ie, my wife has a Fiat 500e, and the dashboard shows (when you turn off car) the amount of time it'll take to charge the car using 110 or 220) I wish this info was available on the Clarity.

Thanks again--MBG

 

[LAF]

Than


KendalF: Thank you for your quick and helpful reply.
With regard to #2: I am not accelerating/braking hard--but could be the regenerative breaking- I'll try and notice next time it happens. With regard to #3: so, does the revving sound go away or lessen? ( I actually havent been on any long trips yet using very little gas, so have only had to put up with the revving for a few miles til I get home and recharge) Also, a bit confused, Will my driving in engine (gas/HV) mode be able to recharge the battery?
And one more question- Other than HondaLink which I find mostly useless, is there a way when I power off my car to tell how much % battery life is left, and how long it will take to recharge? ...or is it just a guesstimate based on how many bars are left on the gauge? (ie, my wife has a Fiat 500e, and the dashboard shows (when you turn off car) the amount of time it'll take to charge the car using 110 or 220) I wish this info was available on the Clarity.

Thanks again--MBG

why not just use the app, it gives you this information. it also preconditions your car from a long distance when the key can't do it. the app also tells you where your car is if its parked which is handy when you are waiting for your significant other. you can tell whether they left their previous destination without bugging them. just some thoughts