Charging Plug does not lock - No Fast Charge

Chris Alemany

Well-Known Member
Hi all,


My 2019 Kona EV has recently developed an issue where the locking mechanism on the charge port does not engage.


This does not seem to affect L1 or L2 charging.


However, I have tried multiple L3 charger stations and all have failed with an error reported from the car. I don't have the ability to see what that error is exactly, but what I have read is that if the charge receptacle does not lock, it will not start the charging cycle.


I can hear the locking mechanism trying to engage multiple times when a plug is inserted or when I unlock or re-lock the car.


Does anyone have any tips on fixing or further diagnosing this outside of the dealer (I'm out of warranty)?

Thanks

Chris
 
Hi all,


My 2019 Kona EV has recently developed an issue where the locking mechanism on the charge port does not engage.


This does not seem to affect L1 or L2 charging.


However, I have tried multiple L3 charger stations and all have failed with an error reported from the car. I don't have the ability to see what that error is exactly, but what I have read is that if the charge receptacle does not lock, it will not start the charging cycle.


I can hear the locking mechanism trying to engage multiple times when a plug is inserted or when I unlock or re-lock the car.


Does anyone have any tips on fixing or further diagnosing this outside of the dealer (I'm out of warranty)?

Thanks

Chris
There have been other cases reported of the same failure type.
Unfortunately the only remedy is charge port assy. replacement or possibly a new actuator if available separately.
I would take it to the dealer and get a quote. Good luck
 
Have you tried supporting the DC charge plug while starting the charge? The latch must be working on AC charging otherwise those sessions wouldn't start either.
 
Have you tried supporting the DC charge plug while starting the charge? The latch must be working on AC charging otherwise those sessions wouldn't start either.

yes, I have tried supporting the plug. From what I have read the lock is not required for AC charging. Only DC.
 
There have been other cases reported of the same failure type.
Unfortunately the only remedy is charge port assy. replacement or possibly a new actuator if available separately.
I would take it to the dealer and get a quote. Good luck

thanks. I’ll talk to them. I believe when I had them look at the charging port because of a shorting connection on the ac adapter (which turned out to be a problem on my L2 charge plug) they said a charger assembly replacement was $1500+.
 
My friend with a 2022 Kona just had this exact same problem and had to have the charge port replaced, there is a safety lock that engages a pin to inhibit removal while at level three.
 
I just had this fixed last week at the Dealer in Nanaimo. They only had to fix the actuator, rather than replace the whole charge port.
Cost was $250 for the part and $350 for labour.
 
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You could try pulling the emergency release cable a few times and see if that frees it up? It is a warning to all of us to try the fast charger every now and then, he travelled a long distance only to find he couldn't fast charge and had to run around town topping up at level two wherever he could, not a fun road trip! I do 99% of my charging at home and it could be a year before I fast charge.
 
thanks. I’ll talk to them. I believe when I had them look at the charging port because of a shorting connection on the ac adapter (which turned out to be a problem on my L2 charge plug) they said a charger assembly replacement was $1500+.
However the the part is only $700 online. There are videos that detail the process on YouTube.
 
I have recently performed the actuator replacement on my 2020 Kia Soul. The part (incl taxes and shipping) was $300CAD. Took me about 3 hours (because you need to remove the bumper).
Pulling the emergency release cable under the hood does not free-up the actuator as the failure mode is a failure to extend in the first place.
Since it is a nasty discovery to find that DCFC doesn't work (due to the actuator failure) when you are far from home, I have enabled the lock-always mode so that I can detect any issue when AC charging at home. Utilizing the locking should also reduce the chances of the actuator binding/seizing.
 
I have recently performed the actuator replacement on my 2020 Kia Soul. The part (incl taxes and shipping) was $300CAD. Took me about 3 hours (because you need to remove the bumper).
Pulling the emergency release cable under the hood does not free-up the actuator as the failure mode is a failure to extend in the first place.
Since it is a nasty discovery to find that DCFC doesn't work (due to the actuator failure) when you are far from home, I have enabled the lock-always mode so that I can detect any issue when AC charging at home. Utilizing the locking should also reduce the chances of the actuator binding/seizing.
I also have 2020 Kia Soul EV and I am having the same issue, I'm in Toronto. Where did you order that part?

Thanks,

David
 
I also have 2020 Kia Soul EV and I am having the same issue, I'm in Toronto. Where did you order that part?

Thanks,

David
I purchased 91667J2110 from Kia Parts Superstore https://www.kiaparts-superstore.ca/

They are in Bowmanville. If you send your VIN, they will verify that the part number is correct.

If you shop around you can find it for less - I see the price has jumped appreciably since I purchased mine.

However, they are very helpful and service is prompt. I have purchased multiple items from them.
 
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I purchased 91667J2110 from Kia Parts Superstore https://www.kiaparts-superstore.ca/

They are in Bowmanville. If you send your VIN, they will verify that the part number is correct.

If you shop around you can find it for less - I see the price has jumped appreciably since I purchased mine.

However, they are very helpful and service is prompt. I have purchased multiple items from them.
Thanks for the link. I'm just curious, how did you find out it is that part that needs replacing? How did you know the DC port didn't lock?

When I try to charge, it said 'lock problem' on the fast charger and never charges, I tried 5 different fast chargers. Google said it might be the 12v battery being low and I heard a ticking from the battery so I replaced that but that didn't fix it.

I just don't want to change the lock actuator if it might be something else.

When I charge level 2 at home and I have 'lock while charging', the AC port actually locks. Maybe the just the DC port doesn't lock? Can you hear it lock? Maybe I should do more troubleshooting.

Thanks for the help.

-David
 
Thanks for the link. I'm just curious, how did you find out it is that part that needs replacing? How did you know the DC port didn't lock?

When I try to charge, it said 'lock problem' on the fast charger and never charges, I tried 5 different fast chargers. Google said it might be the 12v battery being low and I heard a ticking from the battery so I replaced that but that didn't fix it.

I just don't want to change the lock actuator if it might be something else.

When I charge level 2 at home and I have 'lock while charging', the AC port actually locks. Maybe the just the DC port doesn't lock? Can you hear it lock? Maybe I should do more troubleshooting.

Thanks for the help.

-David
There is one locking pin that engages the charging plug (whether it is just the J1772 or the CCS combo).
You should be able to see the white pin near the top of the J1772 connector if you look carefully with a light when your Level 2 charger is plugged (and the lock option is enabled)

When the locking actuator has properly extended the pin, a switch in the actuator closes and so the car can report that success to the DC charger. AC chargers don't care/know about the locking pin so will charge regardless.
If you are hearing "ticking" for a couple of seconds, that is probably from the lock and unlock relays in the fuse box as they cycle lock/unlock a few times in order to read a switch closure.
Possibly there is only a partial locking pin extension that doesn't result in a switch closure - or bad switch, wiring, electronics that doesn't allow the car to communicate a successful lock.

Change the option to "Always Lock" so that you can "play around" with multiple plugging/unlocking to see if the locking is repeatable.

Locking might work fine in your garage but might fail at cold public DCFC's.

Don't spray any WD40, IPA or similar as that will swell the plastic and make any binding worse.
 
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