Bimmercode help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Joe c
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I would try the 12v battery disconnect for a few minutes. That always gets my fiat 500e back to normal when something goes wrong. Safer to disconnect the negative terminal. Hopefully no weird setup like on the BMW's where you have to register the battery
 
Problem is it's harder than it looks to access the 12v battery. I guess I could remove all the under hood trim...
 
I disconnected both terminals off the 12v battery, and....nothing! The car still starts up, all the electronics still work, AC still broken! What?? Ill upload a picture of the terminals off the 12v battery. Maybe there's a fuse box I can access?
 

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I accessed the fuse box in the glovebox and pulled every fuse related to AC and fan and defrost, the only one I didn't pull was fuse 5 which is in the body domain controller, still nothing. I'm going to try to access the BDC to get at fuse 5 to see if that will reset things. Pulling the leads off the 12v battery did absolutely nothing. Everything still worked fine, which was weird.
 
You people nuts ! what you achieve with programming your car a bit ! Can’t get more range or performance ? BMW is smarter than you don’t touch a crab is a basic transportation and don’t cry you **** up your go cart just drive to work and sleep well and live well you don’t have to pay 6$ for gas and be happy you can afford Mini Cooper SE electric .Get a live.
You mess up your AC open a windows .From old dud advice.! I was on BMWI3 forum for 6 years bc I own that car the same stories you guys try to fix a car for no reason is a crab to drive don’t mess a garbage !No issue with i3 and SE bc I don’t fix a go cart and I’m experience mechanic for 50 years with with Porsches Wv and all gas cars.
 
Darrell Hayes said:
I would try the 12v battery disconnect for a few minutes. That always gets my fiat 500e back to normal when something goes wrong. Safer to disconnect the negative terminal. Hopefully no weird setup like on the BMW's where you have to register the battery
Click to expand...
The way you acting don’t touch battery may kill you ! Educate yourself how a crab works or Google every thing
 
How long did you leave the 12 V battery disconnected? It may need to be disconnected for some time for the car to discharge accessories, maybe 30 minutes?
 
I've been trying to think of something constructive to add to the thread to help you out - there than just moral support. I've done plenty of coding on VW group cars over the years, and Esys for BMW about seven years ago. I've been fortunate enough not to have an issue like this before.

I did find this thread, which is as close to your issue I can find: https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1776876
The CaboM4 user mentioned in the thread is still active on that forum, in fact last seen today - I'd definitely try reaching out to him to see what advice and/or direct assistance he can offer.

Disconnecting for 30+ minutes might help, as might the ENET cable, but I fear that it will take something like Esys or the dealer to sort it.
 
Yeah I think it was disconnected for about 30 minutes. Didn't time it. Car functions all seemed to work weirdly. I'll mess around with the ENET cable. Really unsure about esys because it's such a new model, not even sure which module to download/how to do it. I'll see if I can contact that user.
Going to the dealer probably voids my warranty?
 
I'm in Socal in Ventura County, would love any help! If I can't get help in a week or so I guess I'll just take it to the dealer...
 
There are lots of posts on NAM with esys and lots of people in Socal too. I would post something there or search for members that have knowledge of how to fix this.
 
So can you go into expert mode for IHKA3 (3003) -> AC_ON_WITH_AUTO -> aktiv (default setting)?

There are probably additional conflicts in your IHKA3 module that need to be resolved.
 
Joe c said:
Going to the dealer probably voids my warranty?
Click to expand...

As I understand it no, it’s not like a sticker on a blu-ray player that says void if removed. It couldn’t impact warranty claims on unrelated systems. Like if you put non-OEM wheels on and you made a warranty claim for a sunroof issue, they can’t deny it because you have changed the wheels.
And if there was a warranty claim with the AC system in future, they would need to demonstrate that the failure, say due to excessive compressor duty cycle, was due to the coding issue.
They’d probably give you a stern lecture and warn you in future they would void your warranty, but that’s not what would happen.
Obviously if you took it to a dealer, if it gets to the stage where other options for resolving the issue are exhausted, any reprogramming/resetting would not be covered by warranty and they’d charge you for it.
But there’s lots of knowledge out in the user communities, so hopefully someone can figure it out for you.
 
Really hoping so, just waiting for responses on all the other forums I posted on. I did read other places that even with gas mini f56, pulling the 12v doesn't reset the ECU, so I think pulling the leads off, removing fuses, etc really was pointless and that it really needs a recode.
 
Fixed! Stephan from Bimmercode replied back once I got the enet cable and offered to remote into my windows laptop. It was 1am my time but I think he's in Germany, but I would've stayed up all night if that what it took. He had me download esys and another pretty large data file to unzip, but once everything was setup he was able to fix it in 2 minutes! Basically restored the automatic AC ECU back to stock. Everything back to normal! Whew!
 
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