A look under the dashboard of Clarity after removing panels

V8Power

V8Power

Active Member
I wanted to hardwire my dashcam so I needed to get access under the dashboard especially under the centre section right under the climate controls to run wires and hide a cigarette lighter socket. I figured out how to do it without breaking anything and thought I'd share how I did it and what it looks like with the covers removed. The 2 removeable covers on the driver & passenger sides just pull off without tools. You just pull directly away from the console on the edge nearest the seats and the 3 clips release, with the panel about an inch away from the console, gently pull the panel towards the seat about another inch to remove it from the connector in the back. Be careful not pull the panel away from the console too much once the clips release or you might bend and break the connector on the rear that is closest to the firewall. The two sides slip into a mating part but beware that the left and right rear connections are different. Now you have full access.

While under the dashboard with the panels removed, I noticed few cool things.
-The GO pedal's mechanism looks very digital, high quality and the pedal itself has a hollow structure to it.
-the dashboard's structure is made of cool looking aluminum - love it!
-the hidden components all have a high quality look & feel with attention to detail. The passenger side rear clip that inserts into a slot has some felt tape wrapped around it I suspect to ensure a squeak & rattle free drive, well done Honda!

IMG_3727.webp IMG_3728.webp IMG_3729.webp IMG_3731.webp IMG_3732.webp
 
Thanks for the pictures!
Nice work!

Off thread, but how can a car with so much aluminum in, subframes, suspension components, structural parts in these pictures, etc. weigh so much?
Is this just battery weight?
 
I think it’s mainly the battery plus the 2 motors and all the added EV and associated hybrid gear in addition to regular ICE systems. Look under the hood, it’s packed. The accord Hybrid and new Insight are very similar with tiny batteries.
 
Was told that the battery weighed in the neighborhood of 600 lbs from a tech, so the dealership has the special hoist to assist in changeouts, which they may or may not be currently using as a engine hoist.
 
V8Power said:
I wanted to hardwire my dashcam so I needed to get access under the dashboard especially under the centre section right under the climate controls to run wires and hide a cigarette lighter socket. I figured out how to do it without breaking anything and thought I'd share how I did it and what it looks like with the covers removed. The 2 removeable covers on the driver & passenger sides just pull off without tools. You just pull directly away from the console on the edge nearest the seats and the 3 clips release, with the panel about an inch away from the console, gently pull the panel towards the seat about another inch to remove it from the connector in the back. Be careful not pull the panel away from the console too much once the clips release or you might bend and break the connector on the rear that is closest to the firewall. The two sides slip into a mating part but beware that the left and right rear connections are different. Now you have full access.

While under the dashboard with the panels removed, I noticed few cool things.
-The GO pedal's mechanism looks very digital, high quality and the pedal itself has a hollow structure to it.
-the dashboard's structure is made of cool looking aluminum - love it!
-the hidden components all have a high quality look & feel with attention to detail. The passenger side rear clip that inserts into a slot has some felt tape wrapped around it I suspect to ensure a squeak & rattle free drive, well done Honda!

View attachment 1865 View attachment 1866 View attachment 1867 View attachment 1868 View attachment 1869
Click to expand...
What was the dashcam that you installed and what's your feedback?
 
workbench said:
What was the dashcam that you installed and what's your feedback?
Click to expand...
I ordered a couple Dome DAB201's (also sold under various labels like Blackview etc..) from China that truly records in 1440P to provide more output detail than 1080P FHD. They are inexpensive but the two I got required that I crack open the lens housing to manually tweak the focus of the large lens to optimize the image quality. They don't do a good consistent job of focusing these at the factory for some reason. The field of view is very wide with relatively low distortion. Also, I blacked out all the chrome and markings with a sharpie to make it more low key.

Here's a video that shows its video quality:
 
V8Power said:
I wanted to hardwire my dashcam so I needed to get access under the dashboard especially under the centre section right under the climate controls to run wires and hide a cigarette lighter socket. I figured out how to do it without breaking anything and thought I'd share how I did it and what it looks like with the covers removed. The 2 removeable covers on the driver & passenger sides just pull off without tools. You just pull directly away from the console on the edge nearest the seats and the 3 clips release, with the panel about an inch away from the console, gently pull the panel towards the seat about another inch to remove it from the connector in the back. Be careful not pull the panel away from the console too much once the clips release or you might bend and break the connector on the rear that is closest to the firewall. The two sides slip into a mating part but beware that the left and right rear connections are different. Now you have full access.

While under the dashboard with the panels removed, I noticed few cool things.
-The GO pedal's mechanism looks very digital, high quality and the pedal itself has a hollow structure to it.
-the dashboard's structure is made of cool looking aluminum - love it!
-the hidden components all have a high quality look & feel with attention to detail. The passenger side rear clip that inserts into a slot has some felt tape wrapped around it I suspect to ensure a squeak & rattle free drive, well done Honda!

View attachment 1865 View attachment 1866 View attachment 1867 View attachment 1868 View attachment 1869
Click to expand...
I just got done (literally) installing my dash cam in my 3 day old Clarity and removed absolutely no panels! There are open fuse ports right under the dash above the brake pedal almost, bought a wiring harness that simply plugged into the open fuse port and tucked the wires in the door seal... no need to get to the 12v outlet in the middle console. Hope this helps others wanting to hard wire dash cams.
 

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clarityowner12 said:
I just got done (literally) installing my dash cam in my 3 day old Clarity and removed absolutely no panels! There are open fuse ports right under the dash above the brake pedal almost, bought a wiring harness that simply plugged into the open fuse port and tucked the wires in the door seal... no need to get to the 12v outlet in the middle console. Hope this helps others wanting to hard wire dash cams.
Click to expand...

This is great. One question: Iwrote a lengthy post earlier about how to tap into the ACC circuit in 10 min but of course fuse taps into empty slots are even easier.

I am going to post a fuse map including which fuse positions are “live” only when the car is on and/or in accessory mode.

Which fuse position did you use (C4?). **And is it always live, or only when car is on? **? I’d like to add it to my map before posting.




Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
 
jorgie393 said:
This is great. One question: Iwrote a lengthy post earlier about how to tap into the ACC circuit in 10 min but of course fuse taps into empty slots are even easier.

I am going to post a fuse map including which fuse positions are “live” only when the car is on and/or in accessory mode.

Which fuse position did you use (C4?). **And is it always live, or only when car is on? **? I’d like to add it to my map before posting.




Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
Click to expand...


It’s the “2” slot in the fuse box above the brake pedal (off the left a little) and it is only hot when the car is accessory mode or in run mode (perfect for dash cams and or radar detectors etc)
 
clarityowner12 said:
I just got done (literally) installing my dash cam in my 3 day old Clarity and removed absolutely no panels! There are open fuse ports right under the dash above the brake pedal almost, bought a wiring harness that simply plugged into the open fuse port and tucked the wires in the door seal... no need to get to the 12v outlet in the middle console. Hope this helps others wanting to hard wire dash cams.
Click to expand...
Sorry, this is a dumb question but how did you get access to the fuse port? Is the cover held in by clips or something?
 
clarityowner12 said:
I just got done (literally) installing my dash cam in my 3 day old Clarity and removed absolutely no panels! There are open fuse ports right under the dash above the brake pedal almost, bought a wiring harness that simply plugged into the open fuse port and tucked the wires in the door seal... no need to get to the 12v outlet in the middle console. Hope this helps others wanting to hard wire dash cams.
Click to expand...
My previous question was a dumb question after all. I felt around where the fuse port is and there is no cover.
 
Can you tell me which fuse slot # do you tap the bat (Battery) wire for 24 hour parking mode. This is the second wire to tap in the fuse even when vehicle is off because I don’t see from all the picture you posted. And my understanding is that you used the number 2 - empty slot for accessory wire instead/in place of the cigarette lighter socket and also there isa ground wire, correct. Thank you very much for your post but please confirm with me about the hot wire battery mentioned above
 
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