2023 Mini Cooper SE Live Journal & Review

[tesrivmini]

Great review, thanks for sharing your perspective!

I'm about to trade in my tuned Focus ST for a BRG Mini SE, so not quite exactly your situation but a similar transition. Watching review videos of launches in the SE made me pretty skeptical that it can hold up to a tuned hot-hatch: my FoST does about a 0-60 in the low 5s range vs 7s for the SE, so I know that it's not going to be quite the same on the butt dyno, but since I live in the city the times I can really let loose in my FoST are rare anyway.
Super looking forward to moving to electric even if it's not quite going to have the grunt of my dino-burner, hopefully picking it up from the dealer this weekend.

(Also, kill all chrome for sure, I already have vinyl tape for that waistline.)

I understand where you're coming from, but I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Unlike an ICE car, you don't have to been in the right gear, in the right RPM range, etc to get the best performance - and no launch control to get the best 0-60 number. Speaking of, Car & Driver got a 6.1 for an SE.

All you have to do is put your foot down, not just off the line, but at any time. The whole instant torque in an electric car isn't just marketing speak, for driving on a public road - especially urban or suburban driving - it's fantastic.

Your butt dyno will tell you it's much quicker in real world driving - save for the slightly slower 0-60 time, but without the need for launch control.

I handed my Model 3 Performance back to Tesla a couple of days ago, so I'll be loosing a lot of power/torque - and a 0-60 time that's twice as long (according to Car & Driver) - but aside from traffic lights, in the real world with traffic, it won't make a huge amount of practical difference. Except that I'll be able to use full throttle for more than a second or two at a time.

 

[Carsten Haase]

I thought going to 17" and all season performance tires (Cont DWS06) would be a good changeover and not cause any loss in handling. Boy was I wrong. The summer 16" wheel/tire combo was definitely much tighter in handling. The all seasons feel very floaty and unresponsive in comparison. Not sure how, but is the truth :/ ...Hopefully lowering tightens it back up to acceptable.

That's exactly the opposite experience I had when switching from the OEM 16s to 17... the Hankook Ventus Prime3s have very weak/flexible sidewalls (very obvious when the tires were no longer mounted to the wheels)

Must be the DWS06 tires or maybe the tire/wheel width combo? I switched to 215/45R17 BFGoodrich Comp2 A/S tires on 7.5" wide wheels and they're a huge improvement in handling and steering response.

 

[klocwerk]

I thought going to 17" and all season performance tires (Cont DWS06) would be a good changeover and not cause any loss in handling. Boy was I wrong. The summer 16" wheel/tire combo was definitely much tighter in handling. The all seasons feel very floaty and unresponsive in comparison.

That's 100% my experience with tires, summer tires will always be far stiffer than all-seasons as they don't have to make the compromises necessary for cold temperatures. I live near Boston, and for any sporty car will always keep Summer/Winter tires sets for exactly this reason.

 

[insightman]

Great review, thanks for sharing your perspective!

I'm about to trade in my tuned Focus ST for a BRG Mini SE, so not quite exactly your situation but a similar transition. Watching review videos of launches in the SE made me pretty skeptical that it can hold up to a tuned hot-hatch: my FoST does about a 0-60 in the low 5s range vs 7s for the SE, so I know that it's not going to be quite the same on the butt dyno, but since I live in the city the times I can really let loose in my FoST are rare anyway.
Super looking forward to moving to electric even if it's not quite going to have the grunt of my dino-burner, hopefully picking it up from the dealer this weekend.

(Also, kill all chrome for sure, I already have vinyl tape for that waistline.)

You're selling the SE short. Independent testers have found the SE can get to 60 mph in 6.2 seconds--MINI's specs are pessimistic. The SE will go further on a charge than MINI's specs, too. I know the EPA will let manufacturers downgrade their fuel-economy ratings below what the EPA tests achieve--can manufacturers do the same with their EV range ratings? If so, I'd believe BMW/MINI does that.

I believe the 0-30 mph sprint is more important in urban settings and the SE's instant torque and superb traction-control system make that sprint loads of fun. Even if your FoST could match the SE's 0-30 time, as you said, you can rarely let loose your FoST in urban settings. When you accelerate quickly in an SE you're accelerating because you have a reason to accelerate; when you accelerate quickly in an ICE car, some bystanders perceive that as an audible and unwelcome testosterone-sponsored statement. Also, such sounds are likely to turn the heads of law-enforcement officers.

I remember how amazingly quick my late housemate's 1968 Shelby GT500 Mustang (automatic trans) seemed back then. Now I read that that car took 6.5 seconds to get to 60. I'm lucky to have never driven a quicker car than my SE. I wish I could take that housemate for a ride today.

 

[MarkSasaki]

I understand where you're coming from, but I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Unlike an ICE car, you don't have to been in the right gear, in the right RPM range, etc to get the best performance - and no launch control to get the best 0-60 number. Speaking of, Car & Driver got a 6.1 for an SE.

All you have to do is put your foot down, not just off the line, but at any time. The whole instant torque in an electric car isn't just marketing speak, for driving on a public road - especially urban or suburban driving - it's fantastic.

Your butt dyno will tell you it's much quicker in real world driving - save for the slightly slower 0-60 time, but without the need for launch control.

I handed my Model 3 Performance back to Tesla a couple of days ago, so I'll be loosing a lot of power/torque - and a 0-60 time that's twice as long (according to Car & Driver) - but aside from traffic lights, in the real world with traffic, it won't make a huge amount of practical difference. Except that I'll be able to use full throttle for more than a second or two at a time.

Insightman said something that really stuck in my head, he called it stepless acceleration. My current Mini like other's modded cars here will beat the SE if raced but want I am looking forward to is always being in the right power band, like you said, just put your foot down. I'm still on the fence about not having a manual trans, all of my fun cars were sticks. This SE at least for now has to substitute for my fun car. The day the car arrives is when the KWs, wheels and tire go on. Along with window tint and maybe some blackout lighting, that is really the only thing you can mod on these things.

 

[AndysComputer]

I understand where you're coming from, but I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Unlike an ICE car, you don't have to been in the right gear, in the right RPM range, etc to get the best performance - and no launch control to get the best 0-60 number. Speaking of, Car & Driver got a 6.1 for an SE.

All you have to do is put your foot down, not just off the line, but at any time.

I was going to write a long reply (as usual) to some of the comments re the performance but you have nailed it one thousand percent.

The Mini is a 6.2-6.3 second car in my experience. And that’s consistently, no skill required. Trying to get the manufacturer figures from a FWD manual transmission “hot hatch” is next to impossible unless you have the right conditions and perfect technique on launch and shifting and most drivers don’t. That’s just reality.
I had a guy in a lowered Fiesta ST with some obnoxious exhaust (no idea if any other mods) race me from the lights and by the time I hit 40 I was 3 car lengths ahead and he didn’t even start to reel me in until I was past 60 at which point we both had to brake for traffic anyway. According to Motortrend that’s a 6.4s car stock but clearly the driver got nowhere near that in reality.

As for highway, 2 days ago I was going 60 and a Dodge Charger RT joined the highway aggressively and was alongside me to my right. I knew he was going to floor it and cut in front so I floored it, he did the same, I heard his transmission kick down and then the car accelerated but I was already ahead by the time his power was available to use and he had to pull in behind me as he couldn’t make it. Obviously he then went for the left lane and was gone (I didn’t even try as it would be pointless and I wasn’t interested in racing, I was just happy he wasn’t cutting in on my lane). The point is that while his car was vastly more powerful and we were doing highway speeds, that delay due to having a transmission killed his chances on that short burst to “get the spot”.

 

[Rexsio]

I was going to write a long reply (as usual) to some of the comments re the performance but you have nailed it one thousand percent.

The Mini is a 6.2-6.3 second car in my experience. And that’s consistently, no skill required. Trying to get the manufacturer figures from a FWD manual transmission “hot hatch” is next to impossible unless you have the right conditions and perfect technique on launch and shifting and most drivers don’t. That’s just reality.
I had a guy in a lowered Fiesta ST with some obnoxious exhaust (no idea if any other mods) race me from the lights and by the time I hit 40 I was 3 car lengths ahead and he didn’t even start to reel me in until I was past 60 at which point we both had to brake for traffic anyway. According to Motortrend that’s a 6.4s car stock but clearly the driver got nowhere near that in reality.

As for highway, 2 days ago I was going 60 and a Dodge Charger RT joined the highway aggressively and was alongside me to my right. I knew he was going to floor it and cut in front so I floored it, he did the same, I heard his transmission kick down and then the car accelerated but I was already ahead by the time his power was available to use and he had to pull in behind me as he couldn’t make it. Obviously he then went for the left lane and was gone (I didn’t even try as it would be pointless and I wasn’t interested in racing, I was just happy he wasn’t cutting in on my lane). The point is that while his car was vastly more powerful and we were doing highway speeds, that delay due to having a transmission killed his chances on that short burst to “get the spot”.

Those powerful cars try to abuse ME in SE but those dummies don’t know we are in electric race car with torque and speed on demand once you beat them to next light they raise a hand and they still don’t know what you drive they try to race me on two way lines in residential streets when I’m doing 25 mph according to sign speed but I’m not aloud to pass me just for joke they have to slow down with an out-coming traffic those cars are a gas guzzler can beat as and a drivers as public should learn about EV’s

 

[Rexsio]

My I3 was faster 2014 2600 lbs rear drive no sits and no extra weight I have 6 speed cameras tickets so far with SE 3150 lbs I have 2 in 1/2 year they are $50 no points on your license bc you don’t feel when you drive 40 mph at 25 mph speed zone . Staten Island have speed cameras on every corner and New York generate 61 M. In speed cameras violations in first four months of 2022

 

[Wreckless117]

Great review, thanks for sharing your perspective!

I'm about to trade in my tuned Focus ST for a BRG Mini SE, so not quite exactly your situation but a similar transition. Watching review videos of launches in the SE made me pretty skeptical that it can hold up to a tuned hot-hatch: my FoST does about a 0-60 in the low 5s range vs 7s for the SE, so I know that it's not going to be quite the same on the butt dyno, but since I live in the city the times I can really let loose in my FoST are rare anyway.
Super looking forward to moving to electric even if it's not quite going to have the grunt of my dino-burner, hopefully picking it up from the dealer this weekend.

(Also, kill all chrome for sure, I already have vinyl tape for that waistline.)

Happy to share! I think you are going to be quite surprised and happy with the move to the SE from the FoST!!

Before the Golf R I had a tuned FoRS, absolute track day beast, but was single minded and rode like a brick on the street, which is why I moved to the golf R in the first place for a DD. The R ended up being way faster after being tuned and the adjustable suspension was great from going from street to track and back to street despite still being on the soft side but did well enough.

Anyways, as a daily driver, I think the SE is fantastic, different class from the R, but is super strong in its own way and might even be a better around town car. I've not once not had a smile so far driving the SE, so its not boring!

Awesome review and summary of the different aspects of the Cooper SE. Especially as compared with your Golf R. We talked on here a bit about how we both switched from Golf R's, and I'd say you arrived at more or less the same conclusions as I did. Not nearly as fast or good at handling, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have strong suits.

Love the mods you've done so far. Including the badge removal on the rear, leaving only the S. I did the same thing on mine, admittedly inspired by the R haha.

One thing to keep in mind, tires make a big difference. Mine came with 16" wheels and Hankook summer tires. I thought going to 17" and all season performance tires (Cont DWS06) would be a good changeover and not cause any loss in handling. Boy was I wrong. The summer 16" wheel/tire combo was definitely much tighter in handling. The all seasons feel very floaty and unresponsive in comparison. Not sure how, but is the truth :/ ...Hopefully lowering tightens it back up to acceptable.

Exactly! Funny how we have the similar thoughts coming from the same cars lol. Yea the tires are what's causing your handling issues, you would have to find a very high performance all season to keep the tight steering response.

You're selling the SE short. Independent testers have found the SE can get to 60 mph in 6.2 seconds--MINI's specs are pessimistic. The SE will go further on a charge than MINI's specs, too. I know the EPA will let manufacturers downgrade their fuel-economy ratings below what the EPA tests achieve--can manufacturers do the same with their EV range ratings? If so, I'd believe BMW/MINI does that.

I believe the 0-30 mph sprint is more important in urban settings and the SE's instant torque and superb traction-control system make that sprint loads of fun. Even if your FoST could match the SE's 0-30 time, as you said, you can rarely let loose your FoST in urban settings. When you accelerate quickly in an SE you're accelerating because you have a reason to accelerate; when you accelerate quickly in an ICE car, some bystanders perceive that as an audible and unwelcome testosterone-sponsored statement. Also, such sounds are likely to turn the heads of law-enforcement officers.

I remember how amazingly quick my late housemate's 1968 Shelby GT500 Mustang (automatic trans) seemed back then. Now I read that that car took 6.5 seconds to get to 60. I'm lucky to have never driven a quicker car than my SE. I wish I could take that housemate for a ride today.

I plan on getting a few 0-60 and ¼mile runs on the dragy and posting them up when I get a chance to compare with the R as well. Just for funsies, but should be interesting to see what I can manage.

 

[insightman]

I plan on getting a few 0-60 and ¼mile runs on the dragy and posting them up when I get a chance to compare with the R as well. Just for funsies, but should be interesting to see what I can manage.

Be sure to get to the track with as much charge as possible and please report your charge percentage with each run. Thanks.

 

[SameGuy]

And maybe a run with the nannies turned completely off via the hidden “roller” menu…

 

[Wreckless117]

Be sure to get to the track with as much charge as possible and please report your charge percentage with each run. Thanks.

Definitely!

And maybe a run with the nannies turned completely off via the hidden “roller” menu…

I'll have to check this out for sure.

 

[Wreckless117]

1k mile update!

Milage as of 6/23/22: 1078 and 267kwh charged.


Not much to share, getting to know the car and its characteristics, more specifically in it's handling. For a FWD, it really rails the corners when you setup the entry right. Powering out of them, especially lower speed corners, without lighting up the tires and oversteering is more of this cars challenge due to the instant torque. But wow when you feather it just right this car comes alive!

Absolutely no issues so far besides noticed a little lag in the infotainment once, but other than that everything has been smooth.



Some thoughts on fuel costs:

Lifetime Avg m/kw is 4.4 so far. Based on that, and my electricity costs, my avg electricity cost per mile is $0.027.... For comparison my Golf R at current fuel prices and usage (avg 22mpg city) would be around $0.259!!! So fuel costs come out to be approx $32 vs. $310 for the same milage and usage (~1k miles).

Doing the above maths, made me did more maths. Made me curious what a brand new, high city mpg car, would need fuel to cost per gallon to match the SE.

So a brand new hybrid Prius gets a touch over 50mpg in the city, pretty good! At current gas prices about $5, that's $0.10/mile. To match the SE at $0.027, gas would need to get down to $1.36/gal. Don't see that happening any time soon.

 

[Carsten Haase]

Lifetime Avg m/kw is 4.4 so far. Based on that, and my electricity costs, my avg electricity cost per mile is $0.027.... For comparison my Golf R at current fuel prices and usage (avg 22mpg city) would be around $0.259!!! So fuel costs come out to be approx $32 vs. $310 for the same milage and usage (~1k miles).

Doing the above maths, made me did more maths. Made me curious what a brand new, high city mpg car, would need fuel to cost per gallon to match the SE.

So a brand new hybrid Prius gets a touch over 50mpg in the city, pretty good! At current gas prices about $5, that's $0.10/mile. To match the SE at $0.027, gas would need to get down to $1.36/gal. Don't see that happening any time soon.

Another fun way to look at it is to convert your efficiency to mpg (equivalent): a gallon of gas has the same energy as 33.7kWh so you are getting 148mpg!

Electricity is not really that much cheaper than gas when comparing energy (my $0.097/kWh is equivalent to $3.27/gal) but EVs are just so much more efficient

 

[klocwerk]

And maybe a run with the nannies turned completely off via the hidden “roller” menu…

Can you elaborate? I couldn't google anything up on this... does it give you full torque at static launch instead of babying it in?

 

[Wreckless117]

A small bone to pick:

Mini... Really? (Also looking at some of you other manufacturers) Spend all this time and money designing a new high end LED tail light assembly, with great output, with a freaking functional union jack pattern....

....and you cheap out and use an incandescent bulb on the reverse light!?!? LEDs everywhere, shoot I can have a freaking disco party with the cycling ambient lighting, but I can't have a decent back up light that, you know, let's me see behind me better than my brake lights?


Fine, I'll do it myself.

Old incandescent in my driveway:

New LED in driveway:

Went and found a super dark nook behind some buildings nearby. Hahahahaha. The dark picture is just tail lights for reference.

Ok I feel better now.

 

[Northshore_rr]

That's some candle power! Do you have a link for the bulb you can share?

 

[Wreckless117]

That's some candle power! Do you have a link for the bulb you can share?

Yea sorry I meant to include that! It also looks like the same bulb is on Amazon for a little cheaper.

https://auxito.com/products/1156-led-bulb-2800-lumen?currency=USD&variant=20067701686345&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwwdWVBhA4EiwAjcYJECEzsHT1EGQZeKIlpi1vETdX98MwjhVnxai4Hn4x_ZcRPILdjFsG_RoC6_QQAvD_BwE


https://www.amazon.com/LUYED-Extrem...ocphy=9021779&hvtargid=pla-571486156948&psc=1

 

[Olibol]

I handed my Model 3 Performance back to Tesla a couple of days ago, so I'll be loosing a lot of power/torque - and a 0-60 time that's twice as long (according to Car & Driver) - but aside from traffic lights, in the real world with traffic, it won't make a huge amount of practical difference. Except that I'll be able to use full throttle for more than a second or two at a time.

This. We have a Model 3 which is a great car, but not a fun car. The mini is fun at lower speeds and the sort of thing I’ll go out in for the sake of it like I did in my supercharged MX5. It’s something that will make me smile getting a corner right at 40, rather than propel me to three figures fast enough to lose my license before I know it. I actually like a bit of body roll and unruly torque steer. Again, it just makes me smile without going too fast.

I’ve got another month or so to wait, but I know the Tesla will only be for long distance duties once it arrives.

 

[SameGuy]

Can you elaborate? I couldn't google anything up on this... does it give you full torque at static launch instead of babying it in?

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...lts-on-cooper-se-signature.13899/#post-170510