2020 Kia E-Niro VESS/Reverse Chime defeat solution

  • Thread starter Thread starter ENirogus
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Well, after reverting my original modification (which seemed to work fine for over 3 years), I've been having more problems. I thought I'd manage to repair two of the broken wires to my harness, but started to think I needed to do the same to the 3rd. Big mistake. A re-pinning tool seemed to work fine on the first go round, but now seems useless trying to get pins out. I've ended up just mangling the connector and pins and my two previous repairs broke at the pin

Does anyone know the specifics of the connector and the pins? I'm thinking I may need to just cut all the wires and start with a new connector and pins. At a minimum, I think I'll need new pins for at least the 3 ends I've screwed up.

At this point, I'd also recommend that any novice wanting to try this a) maybe think twice and b) don't use Lockitt POSI-TAP 20-22 awg taps, because they ultimately broke the wires I'd tapped into and this has caused me a lot of headaches.

Thanks
 
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remember, all the wire does is ground the signal wire. you don't need pin removers or anything, the wire leading to the switch assembly wants to be intermittently grounded to toggle the VESS
 
ENirogus said:
remember, all the wire does is ground the signal wire. you don't need pin removers or anything, the wire leading to the switch assembly wants to be intermittently grounded to toggle the VESS
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There were 3 tapped wires. The taps I used broke 2 of them (over the course of 3 years), including the ground and the pink wire, which I think was providing power to the button's light (not sure), and therefore also the lights on the switch panel (?). The blue striped wire I assume was the one controlling VESS. I'm sure I could have this wrong, but it was working. The issue is, with the ground and/or pink (power for LED?) wires broken, the car thinks there's an issue and I think is constantly communicating when the car is off to check the issue, hence draining the 12V battery.

I am not an electrical engineer (sure this is very clear to anyone who is and who's reading what I'm saying :)), but the bottom line is that all the wires need to be intact, and the pins in the right places and making a solid connection from the female connector to the male pins coming from the back of the switch assembly. So at this point, my solution pretty much has to be a new connector with all good connections. I'm working on that now (either a company that specializes in fixing harnesses or me, depending on who gets a part first and can take the time to fix it).
 
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