It would be useful to explain what went wrong for future readers
2020 Kia E-Niro VESS/Reverse Chime defeat solution
- Thread starter ENirogus
- Start date
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Hey all! I just wired up the VESS momentary switch to my 2022 Niro EV EX and it works well. Thanks for all the info and the videos.
I'd like to have it off by default. I was thinking I could wire up a simple transistor + cap for a delayed circuit. To do that I need some constant voltage.
Had trouble reading the schematic. Would the brown wire give a constant voltage supply? And, what voltage? (I could check the voltage eventually when I crack it open again..)
I experimented with the switch: if I hold it down while the vehicle is turned on (circuit closed), VESS is enabled. If I let go of the momentary switch, it will disable.
So, I could have a transistor that is normally closed allow the circuit to start up closed for VESS, then when the capacitor accumulates enough, open the transistor for the duration of vehicle operation. This could be tapped alongside the switch. That way it would turn off VESS about 500ms after I turn on the car, but the switch would still operate normally.
Thoughts? Thanks for any info on a voltage line if you have it!
I'd like to have it off by default. I was thinking I could wire up a simple transistor + cap for a delayed circuit. To do that I need some constant voltage.
Had trouble reading the schematic. Would the brown wire give a constant voltage supply? And, what voltage? (I could check the voltage eventually when I crack it open again..)
I experimented with the switch: if I hold it down while the vehicle is turned on (circuit closed), VESS is enabled. If I let go of the momentary switch, it will disable.
So, I could have a transistor that is normally closed allow the circuit to start up closed for VESS, then when the capacitor accumulates enough, open the transistor for the duration of vehicle operation. This could be tapped alongside the switch. That way it would turn off VESS about 500ms after I turn on the car, but the switch would still operate normally.
Thoughts? Thanks for any info on a voltage line if you have it!
Sorry, I was referring to Pin 1 or Pin 8. Attaching image you posted long ago.
And I agree re: momentary switch. Seems like there's a latch circuit detecting change in signal voltage to toggle VESS. So my thinking was to have a delay circuit do that for me. Only thing holding back that idea is the need for a separate voltage line, since I cannot control the signal voltage without it.
I do not know, and I think I have read that there is a difference in the systems on newer cars. I believe that the newer cars do not have the deafening beep on reversing that the Niro had
Jeff Glancy
New Member
I have a microcontroller do exactly what you're wanting, by waiting x seconds before turning off VESS. I also have a latching switch to let the microcontroller know that I want the VESS in a certain mode. I use the brown wire for 12V power which turns on when the car starts.
More details...
Jeff Glancy
New Member
Sorry, I was just trying to answer your questions about the brown wire (P1).
I use a Raspberry Pi Pico microcontroller, a 16mm latching switch with RBG LEDs, and additional circuitry. Obviously, you could do a lot with the microcontroller, especially if you wired in a reverse indicator. But since I installed it 3+ years ago, all it does is match the switch on/off position to the VESS on/off, with some feedback via LEDs. That way it 'remembers' the mode from the last time you drove.
I had plans 3 years ago to put all the circuitry on a single PC board and market it. I even ordered all the components, but got busy and did not complete the PCB layout. I had since forgotten that I had gotten that far until I looked yesterday. I am going to finish the design and order a prototype PCB soon, even if its just to replace my hacked-up breadboard under my dash.
I also took apart the dash switch assembly to see about using the unused switch position. Designing a different PCB to place inside the US button panel would be doable, but the blank button plastic is different from the switches so that it cannot move. It would require modifications to the button housing and a new button (3D printed?) that has a light-pipe to show the status LED. The only way to accomplish this would be a core-return policy.
Please read the relevant threads
it is not a speaker, it is a electronic sound unit. A resistor will not work
Some people do not wish to turn off the sound 'forever' and this is a very simple way[as simple as adding a resistor would be] to preserve the sound at the owners discretion
I was suggesting to take the sound unit apart and adding the resistor to a speaker terminal.
Also, the question was if I cut the blue wire would that specifically deactivate the VESS and nothing else. I wasn't saying that everyone would want to do this, I was asking if that would just disable it completely (which is what I'd like to do). After reading the relevant threads, I didn't see that information.
To remove the VESS assembly requires significant work. It can be unplugged with small amount of difficulty
While I reflexively push the button to silence the VESS in reverse, it can be handy in crowded or unfamiliar parking lots where you actually wish to draw some attention
While I reflexively push the button to silence the VESS in reverse, it can be handy in crowded or unfamiliar parking lots where you actually wish to draw some attention
Josh Schneider
New Member
Thanks to this thread, I was able back in 2022 to add a switch to disable VESS momentarily, and it's worked great.
Unfortunately, our car has been experiencing other problems with its electrical system, so I decided to undo my modification so that I could bring it into a dealer and not have any possible warranty claims rejected.
Upon opening things back up, I found that a couple of the taps I used actually ended up severing wires over time.
I've done a quick and sloppy job of stripping and soldering things back together. The crash pad seems to work (I never thought anything wasn't working, but maybe some functions had, I don't know).
If I want to make a tidy repair, I think I need to get some tools to push two or three pins out of the M26 connector, then get some extra, matching wire to make repairs upstream from the connector, solder the pins back on, and then reinsert them into the connector.
Does anyone know what type of connector this is (e.g. DIN specification) and/or what tool I could use to extract the broken wire ends? Thanks.
Unfortunately, our car has been experiencing other problems with its electrical system, so I decided to undo my modification so that I could bring it into a dealer and not have any possible warranty claims rejected.
Upon opening things back up, I found that a couple of the taps I used actually ended up severing wires over time.
I've done a quick and sloppy job of stripping and soldering things back together. The crash pad seems to work (I never thought anything wasn't working, but maybe some functions had, I don't know).
If I want to make a tidy repair, I think I need to get some tools to push two or three pins out of the M26 connector, then get some extra, matching wire to make repairs upstream from the connector, solder the pins back on, and then reinsert them into the connector.
Does anyone know what type of connector this is (e.g. DIN specification) and/or what tool I could use to extract the broken wire ends? Thanks.
You're probably going to want a re-pinning tool, something like:
or
or
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Josh Schneider
New Member
Thanks, @brianc35. I guess it just has to be a full kit and trial-and-error to see what works, but obviously these are pretty cheap and easy options.
Any idea whether severed wires to this connector could in any way result in parasitic battery drain? My almost brand-new 12V just went dead overnight for the second day in a row, which is what finally led me to undo the modification (in anticipation of taking it to a dealer).
Any idea whether severed wires to this connector could in any way result in parasitic battery drain? My almost brand-new 12V just went dead overnight for the second day in a row, which is what finally led me to undo the modification (in anticipation of taking it to a dealer).