12V battery

Well I was greeted to another dead 12v battery this morning before heading off to work. Was driving it in my daily and normal commute of around 60km day until I parked it last night. It's been regularly daily driven. Was around -5C overnight. No unusual accessory use, wasn't plugged into EVSE, it's drain appears completely random. I don't get it?

Sent from my SM-G955W using Inside EVs mobile app
 
Toolworker said:
...Will they repair the car for not running ABS on the Hyundai EVSE?
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Well, that EVSE was supplied with the car so it all must work together. I think the graphs clearly show that there is a problem. At least you're in a part of the world where EVs are common, so they should have excellent resources at their disposal.
wizziwig said:
Was hoping someone measured current directly using clamp meter to confirm accuracy. That way you're not introducing variables by also powering the OBD2 port and adapter. Also, that port seems dead on my Niro when car if powered off ...
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The OBD comms wake up the moment charging starts. The current shunt only sees current at the aux battery so it doesn't matter what other 12V loads are present, noting on my graph that current reaches zero while still at charging voltage. The scaling is roughly verified because my calculation shows that the total energy input matches the expected loss due to quiescent current drain.
apu said:
Well I was greeted to another dead 12v battery this morning before heading off to work. Was driving it in my daily and normal commute of around 60km day until I parked it last night. It's been regularly daily driven. Was around -5C overnight. No unusual accessory use, wasn't plugged into EVSE, it's drain appears completely random...
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You should get a BM2, it provides the peace of mind of being able to track the voltage change day to day. You just have to catch a fatal voltage drop before the device loses its memory.
 
KiwiME said:
You should get a BM2, it provides the peace of mind of being able to track the voltage change day to day. You just have to catch a fatal voltage drop before the device loses its memory.
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If you want to do that, a good time to check is an hour or two past Auto Battery Saver.

You should also get a compact rechargeable 12v jump starter, which provides the peace of mind of being able to drive your car.
 
I was going to make a new post but though it might be better here. There has been a software update reported on FB, one in the US and one in Canada so far, both cases where the dealer calls by phone and says it's a "recall". One owner posted a list of items affected that seems to cover most if not all of the Kona's subsystems including the LDC. I've translated the acronyms here:

1) BMS battery management system, 2) MCU motor control unit, 3) VCU vehicle control unit, 4) LDC aux battery charger, 5) IGPM (seems to control all the smaller items like power windows, what everyone else calls a BCM).

I'm wondering if this (LDC) is a fix for the 12V battery problem? Both Hyundai US and Canada have a VIN utility on their websites, so y'all can check for applicability.
 
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KiwiME said:
I was going to make a new post but though it might be better here. There has been a software update reported on FB, one in the US and one in Canada so far, both cases where the dealer calls by phone and says it's a "recall". One owner posted a list of items affected that seems to cover most if not all of the Kona's subsystems including the LDC. I've translated the acronyms here:

1) BMS battery management system, 2) MCU motor control unit, 3) VCU vehicle control unit, 4) LDC aux battery charger, 5) IGPM (seems to control all the smaller items like power windows, what everyone else calls a BCM).

I'm wondering if this (LDC) is a fix for the 12V battery problem? Both Hyundai US and Canada have a VIN utility on their websites, so y'all can check for applicability.
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Looking up my U.S. VIN here, it says there's no "Safety Recalls and Service Campaigns" for my car.

Got a link to the FB post?
 
One is near or at the top of this international group, the other a bit further down: Hyundai Kona Electric (EV).
 
So now that the Battery saver + option has been removed from the user settings (after the 00D005 (C0374 ) software update :
https://insideevsforum.com/communit...g-vs-left-regen-button.6783/page-2#post-99840
Will we ever see the yellow indicator light come on again (the one on the front in the H symbol) ?
And if it does, will it be more frequent or less? I kind of got used to it as a reminder of the system doing its assigned job, and when it came on at an unusual time that would alert me that possibly the 12V battery is low or something is amiss.
Does it now charge based on SOC or just more often?
For those who have had the update, it would be beneficial to observe and report.
BTW- didn't we pay xtra for that option when we purchased?:oops:
 
We will hopefully get some feedback soon especially given that Canada was the first to receive the updates. You can only imagine that in order to monitor the traction battery more frequently that the system will wake up more than the current once a day for the battery saver. It will need the LDC to power the BMS, which means the additional possibility of assessing and/or charging the 12V battery as well.
I would guess that the applicability of the yellow indicator will not change. I might call the dealer soon and see if they have visibility to the updates, although as you say, I could wait to avoid the disinfection thing as well.
 
I would assume that the battery saver+ is now always on. Since anything else wouldn't make any sense. Maybe they changed the timing and/or length of the charge as well.
 
I joined after reading this interesting thread. I think my 12v battery is not being charged, despite having the Aux Battery Saver + set in my Other Features, except when I am charging the main battery. Is there a simple test I can do to check this, other than putting a voltmeter on it every few days? I never see the LCD display message shown on p H61. I do very little driving because of UK lockdown, and the other day it wouldn't start until jump started. Who woud have thought you need to jump start an EV? Another question: some contributors to this thread talk about leaving the car in 'run' mode to charge the 12v battery. What is 'run' mode? Presumably not the one where the little green car is ready to move
 
You could also use utility mode. That will keep charging your 12V battery forever (at progressively decreasing current but constant voltage) based on my experience with eNiro. You can read my posts from several weeks ago on the UK forum for more information.

It's not a very efficient charging method because the rest of the car is also powered up so wasting kWh to charge the tiny 12V battery. Better off getting a smart charger.
 
crofter said:
I never see the LCD display message shown on p H61. I do very little driving because of UK lockdown, and the other day it wouldn't start until jump started. Who woud have thought you need to jump start an EV?
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I've never seen the message either, and Aux Battery Saver definitely runs and charges my 12v battery (most of the time).

However, a dead 12v battery is a common complaint with the Kona EV as well as other Hyundai/Kia EVs.

Taking it in to a dealer is a waste of time (I tried once) since they can't duplicate the problem unless you leave the car indefinitely, and even then they won't know what happened or what to do about it.

I bought a small "jump start" battery pack and am living with the problem until someone says there's been a solution. It doesn't need to deliver much power, just about 30A for a few moments until the car turns on.
 
I've never seen the message in my car dash either but I've seen the indicator in the front grill Hyundai logo light up.

I've never had my 12V battery die, but I happen to have a little jump battery as discribed by others. I didn't buy it for those purpose but it's nice to know it could be a life saver.
 
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