Was just using the foot brake, I think they did not fix it properly, they took more than a week after they got the parts to fix it, will see what they say tomorrow.
That sounds like they didn't do motor resolver calibration right, and the drive electronics aren't sure about the motor's position. Search the forums here for "resolver", to find a [evidently harmless] code my Kona was throwing, even though its resolver is apparently fine. Recalibrating that *is* part of the motor replacement process. _H*
So far we have not seen any new cars leave the factory with a newer motor revision. If any recent buyers in 2020 want to check their motor revision, you can get a photo of the label through a small opening in the wheel well on the passenger side of the car. Maybe other side on cars where the steering wheel is on the opposite side. Helps if you leave the wheels slightly turned. For reference, David T. posted his motor photo in this post. Thanks.
I still notice the very mild sound of a playing card hitting a bicycle spoke when driving below 15km/h. It is hardly audible but early on in my ownership it was bad. It has gotten better over time and this point, I do not hear any of the tapping or creaking, beyond this mild noise. I'm at 25,000km on the odometer.
As I warned people earlier in this thread, continuing to drive with this noise can lead to drastic failure. Another confirmation in the Kona forum.
For the record, when I noticed the sound initially, early on in my ownership, I took it to the Dealer. They had a tech drive with me and I pointed out the strange click and the Tech told me it was normal and that there's nothing more to do. I asked that the Dealer at least note that I raised the concern so that if something happened down the road, I can refer to this. FWIW
Same thing happened to me when I initially took it to the dealer who sold me the car. They were clueless about EVs. Luckily this was my third EV so I knew this sound was not normal for an EV drivetrain. I eventually found another dealer who knew this wasn't right and started an investigation and warranty repair with KIA.
I have not been driving mine much lately with the shelter in place... Yesterday I notice a whisking sound kind of like the sound of a stiff broom on stone or brushed metal, that seems associated with the rotation rate of one or both of my rear wheels, though I have not had anyone stand outside the car wheel I move at low speed to confirm location. It comes and goes. I am hoping it is something stuck on the brake pads or in the wheel well. Will have to take a look
Yep, definitely a bit of a scraping sound from the rear brakes when I use them...and that periodic sound from back there even when I am not. Drum misalignment or warping somehow?
Probably superficial oxidation on the disc that is quickly abraded off once the friction brakes are used Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
Maybe. It started pretty suddenly, so it could be something like that. I should poke around in there sometime. Maybe a squirrel stuffed a nut in the drum.... Well, I'll be darned. Got off my lazy butt and looked. Disk brake on the rear wheels. Nice, but there goes my nut theory. There is some kind of shield around part of the disk. Could be something stuck in there maybe. I will poke around in there and see if I can see anything on the disk.
I also have not driven mine much in the past month, perhaps 40 miles total in that time. The only thing I've noticed is a clunking sound when I shift into reverse from my driveway after not driving the car for a week. Doesn't match anything I've seen people complain about, but have had happen it a couple times now.
You may have left the car sitting on the parking pawl. Try setting the E-brake directly from D when you enter. When you leave, the E-brake will automatically release when you go into R.
Sounds like rotor rust. I get that sound a lot in normally humid conditions and it does't take much time here - 2 days. You hear the clunk as the pads disengage from the rotor.
I'm in a desert climate where rust is very slow to form. Are you saying you get rust on the rotors of your car? If so, that means they didn't FNC treat them to prevent corrosion. GM uses a special metal treatment process on the Bolt EV rotors to prevent them from rusting because they know many owners will never use the brakes while driving in one-pedal-mode. If you use the brakes occasionally, that thin layer of rust should get rubbed off automatically.
I had that sounds on my old ice car a lot when we were living in Oregon. Lots of humidity there, now here in Vegas I don't get that at all. Even not driving for a week there is no rust buildup, not even on my wife's ice car which isn't driving a lot at all during these times.
They get a small film of rust on the surface (like everything else around here by the ocean and wet environment) but clean off rapidly with a couple of brake applications. They look similar to these: https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/rusty-rotors.8682/#post-97661
That looks normal and no worse than any ICE car. I actually wonder if this might be primary reason that the Koreans don't offer true one-pedal-driving modes on any of their cars. By forcing the use of friction brakes at low speeds to fully stop the car, they are making sure the brakes get occasional use and a chance to rub off some of the rust buildup.
Couldn't they cause the friction brakes to kick in for the last 5-6 kmh? I have noticed if I pull and hold the paddle to brake, there is a point around 12 mph where deceleration briefly stops (or at least reduces a lot). Maybe this is a transition point to kick in the friction brakes.