Install/hiding wires of a windshield mounted “dash” cam
- Thread starter KentuckyKen
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Tim66
Active Member
You might know that those aren't the interior fuses. Here is the fuse listing for the driver's side interior fuse box. You may want or need to run the wire into the engine compartment but I found the interior fuse box more convenient.
Tim
Tim66
Active Member
The front and rear cameras are contained in one unit. The rear facing camera only shows the interior of the car and whatever can be seen out the rear window.
Tim
>>those aren't the interior fuses. (Tim, good catch, thanks!) I am always saving snap shots of prints, pics, lists, etc. from posts for later, but that was the wrong list.
Here are pics from my Thinkware F800PRO install, so far so good. Rear facing camera in the window of the trunk lid, looking out rearward, and stuck on between defroster lines.
2018, Base model. The first number fuse for each row is stamped on the left edge of the fuse block (1, 14, 27). I think I used open slot fuse positions 2 and 18 as per earlier posts by others on this forum -
Here are pics from my Thinkware F800PRO install, so far so good. Rear facing camera in the window of the trunk lid, looking out rearward, and stuck on between defroster lines.
2018, Base model. The first number fuse for each row is stamped on the left edge of the fuse block (1, 14, 27). I think I used open slot fuse positions 2 and 18 as per earlier posts by others on this forum -
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Does anyone know when the 12V lead acid battery gets charged? Is it constantly topped off as long as the high voltage battery has power? Or does it only charge while ACC is on or such?
I have a dash camera (Lukas Cuty 7200) which has adjustable auto-power off setting. I set it to power off when it's below 12.5V, but never see it going off. I don't want it to be wearing out the 12V battery. I can feel some heat from the camera, it's probably drawing about 5W constantly.
I have a dash camera (Lukas Cuty 7200) which has adjustable auto-power off setting. I set it to power off when it's below 12.5V, but never see it going off. I don't want it to be wearing out the 12V battery. I can feel some heat from the camera, it's probably drawing about 5W constantly.
KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
This potential problem of damaging it or not being able to reinstall it correctly is why I left it in place and routed the wires past it at its top seam and then down the rubber gasket. This way it’s totally hidden without messing with the A pillar.
Here is that thread with pictures of how to do it without removing the A pillar.
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...ires-of-a-windshield-mounted-“dash”-cam.1235/
I think the potential of damaging is very minimal. Taking off the A-pillar is very simple, once you know how things look like inside.
I really like how cleanly it can be taken off. Pulling off the rubber weather strip is probably more of a concern, that it might rip apart if using a wrong tool. Putting it back together, you can look from the outside of the windshield making sure the two clips are in the right place.
I would redo the wiring while adding some anti-rattle sponge material on the A-pillar. The A-pillar has so much space to move around, that's why it doesn't sit flush and often times rattles if it's not treated. There's really only one clip that you pull off using force. The other clip comes off easily once you pull out the "airbag" square sign piece.
The anti-rattle foam tape I used is something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R338H/100197882
KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
FWIW, you don’t have to remove the weather stripping. You just push the wire underneath its inside edge up to the metal lip. There is plenty of room there without it pinching, showing, or changing the seal dimensions. Easy peasy and very little chance of damage.
I guess I’m just “gun shy” since I’ve broken off a plastic prong or two in my day by not knowing which direction to pull. Admittedly, it’s much easier to remove the second time. It’s that first time that I’m klutzy with.
I guess I’m just “gun shy” since I’ve broken off a plastic prong or two in my day by not knowing which direction to pull. Admittedly, it’s much easier to remove the second time. It’s that first time that I’m klutzy with.
The problem with approach is that the wire passes in front of the airbag, so it might cause issues if it has to deploy...
I don’t think my A pillar is broken - it’s just that it seems to be a bit short - I can clip it at the bottom, but then the 2 clips at the top fall under the holes that they are supposed to go in.
Alternatively, when I insert the top 2 clips, the bottom doesn’t reach far enough to go under the dash
KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
Nope, it passes at the top of the A pillar piece that you are removing at the seam between it and the headliner. So it is not in the way of the airbag.
If it's any consolation, nmy July build and my cousins May build clarity has the A-pillar that looks like that from the factory. I just pulled it off to hardwire my dashcam and it's seated the same way as yours. It looks to be as a bad mold more than installing incorrectly. Also, it seems I'm missing a green nub/clip for the center clip!
The airbag is one piece that extends all the way form the dash to the rear seats. Page 9 of the emergency response guide:
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/web/AJA07616.pdf
So if you run it across the joint, it would interfere.
If it's any consolation, nmy July build and my cousins May build clarity has the A-pillar that looks like that from the factory. I just pulled it off to hardwire my dashcam and it's seated the same way as yours. It looks to be as a bad mold more than installing incorrectly. Also, it seems I'm missing a green nub/clip for the center clip!
Thanks, I wouldn’t expect that from a Japanese car maker...
KentuckyKen
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I will reinspect immediately and have a trusted mechanic look at it.
Better safe than sorry.
Just take a picture before and after of you base of your A pillar. I wish I did as the poster above suggested it was manufacturing defect for some models, but now I don’t have the proof
2002
Well-Known Member
There are people who have not removed their A pillar who say it is short. Mine was manufactured 11/18 and does not seem short, maybe they changed the part at some point? Or maybe there was a bad batch. If it can somehow be confirmed that a newer part will fix it then it is something you will want to get taken care of during the 3yr/36K warranty. OTOH I think I remember someone having the shop change the A pillar but it didn't solve it, but maybe the part they obtained was from an old batch.Just take a picture before and after of you base of your A pillar. I wish I did as the poster above suggested it was manufacturing defect for some models, but now I don’t have the proof
Unless as I think someone else theorized the problem is actually with the dash installation. Hopefully that's not the case and it's just a matter of a batch of incorrectly manufactured A pillars.