Must-have modifications

SameGuy said:
I set mine on my first weekend with the car; on other BMW or VAG apps it might be called "Scandinavian DRL" because they're required in Scandinavia.
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Awesome thanks, exactly what I was looking for. On my Audi it was called Scandinavian DRL. Appreciate all your help with this.
 
Driving to work this morning for the first time since installing yesterday. I am getting a constant error. @SameGuy can you confirm on the wiring harness did you put the wire in spot 1 or did you swap in my case spot 2 and spot 5. Aside from that I did all the coding as stated on the other forum.
 
I don’t have the EU-style lights yet. There’s another member getting intermittent errors over there, might be better to ask in that thread. I checked my harness this morning and I have the five wires like @CoachCookie.
 
SJA said:
Driving to work this morning for the first time since installing yesterday. I am getting a constant error. @SameGuy can you confirm on the wiring harness did you put the wire in spot 1 or did you swap in my case spot 2 and spot 5. Aside from that I did all the coding as stated on the other forum.
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I think we talked on the other forum, but just to confirm you should be swapping wire 1 and 5. Wire 1 on both sides was black w/ yellow stripe. Yes, technically if you look at the connector this would be position 2 and 6 with position 1 being not-populated if you only have the 5-pin harness like us.
 
Even though I could restore from a backup, I’m going to take snapshots of the default coding before I go ahead. I will probably end up doing like most of you, just throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks! I have my fingers crossed that if I get the OE lights, or the A & K version of the Chinese lights — I can’t see how they’d be any different from any other Chinese lights, to be honest, they probably all come from the same workshop in Shenzhen — that it will work the same as on Coach’s car, with the simple changes he did.
 
Ideally I’d like to figure out how to map the output so that the flag section works the way it does now, as a DRL that gets brighter when I step on the brake pedal, and the vertical bar lights up with the brakes, while the amber horizontal bar is the turn signal.
 
Sorry guy. The joys of modifications also have pains. Thanks for guinea-pigging, though. I’ll learne from whatever you (and everyone else) learns.
 
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SameGuy said:
Even though I could restore from a backup, I’m going to take snapshots of the default coding before I go ahead. I will probably end up doing like most of you, just throwing stuff at the wall and seeing what sticks! I have my fingers crossed that if I get the OE lights, or the A & K version of the Chinese lights — I can’t see how they’d be any different from any other Chinese lights, to be honest, they probably all come from the same workshop in Shenzhen — that it will work the same as on Coach’s car, with the simple changes he did.
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Yeah I mean there's no way to be too safe here. May as well be 100% on factory settings just in case you get lost in the rabbit hole of trying different mapping and gauging changes...At this point we don't know if there's a difference between A&K and Vland. All we know is mine has worked with the A&K with no errors thus far. Still seems to be a few growing pains on some others' cars.

SameGuy said:
Ideally I’d like to figure out how to map the output so that the flag section works the way it does now, as a DRL that gets brighter when I step on the brake pedal, and the vertical bar lights up with the brakes, while the amber horizontal bar is the turn signal.
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That would certainly be cool. Sure it's doable. Even my A&K tail lights worked for brakes with the brighter UJ section, just without the vertical bar of course. So now it just needs to be a combo of factory and what I've gotten mine to do now...

SJA said:
I am still getting the intermittent error. I am going to return these lights and try another set.
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Sorry to hear man. On the bright side you'll contribute to the community by showing if the type of tail light makes a difference or not in regards to wiring, coding, and error messages :cool:
 
Just a thought: I coded for the LED reverse lights when I was trying (unsuccessfully) to get the Philips bulbs to work, and left them set to LED when I got the Auxito bulbs that were discussed a bunch of pages ago. Perhaps that might work for the Vland variant lights, but isn’t needed for others?
 
I reached out to VLand through ebay as that is where I bought them from. The person responded saying that there is some accessory they will send me that should stop the error message. I asked what that exactly is but no response back yet.
 
Unfortunately, the economies of doing business with all these Cantonese cloning shops makes it all a bit of a crapshoot. You might get some thing that works perfectly and looks great the first time out, or you might have to jump through hoops. I just pulled the trigger on the on the wireless charging shelf that fits under the toggle switches, $85 Canadian shipped from South China. I have my fingers crossed that I won’t have to modify it very much to work in my 2023. I’ve given up on modifying the wireless charger in the armrest, because I am not removing the bumper from my iPhone 12 Pro Max, and even with the 3-D printed bracket to fit my phone lengthwise, with the bumper on it doesn’t fit in widthwise.
 
Second set of taillights have the same error issue. Back to the drawing board, waiting for the harness now that VLand said should fix the problem. Will take a month to come from china
 
pictsidhe said:
I tried ordering some GP3 lights from them, but the site wouldn't play ball with my card.
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Over the few weeks we’ve been discussing this, the GP3 lights have been sitting in my cart. While I had come close to pulling the trigger in the latter half of February, I had been turned off by the outrageous shipping costs; now when I try to check the shipping charges again, no matter which address I try, their site tells me they cannot ship to my address. It doesn’t matter if it’s any variation of my home address, my work address, or even my shipping or postal addresses in Way Upstate New York. I think when I finally get really serious about it I will contact them on WhatsApp.
 
Maaii in Taiwan just posted something very, very cool at the UK forum. I see the kit is listed on Bimmer8’s eBay page at US$149 shipped from Taiwan; I wonder how much a remote coder would charge to activate it, or if anyone knows a local (maybe a BMW CCA member?) who could help.
 
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