2020 Kia E-Niro VESS/Reverse Chime defeat solution

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I also just did mine, temporarily using a 16mm button with LED, hanging in the fuse box door opening for now. Had been trying for a while to find the proper "plug and play" version of the switch we need, as pictured at
Also considered replacing the lower auto-plug release/schedule override button cluster with the PHEV version and repurposing its fuel door release button, but haven't been able to verify that is a simple NO momentary switch.
 
One of the ways to tell is if the switch state persists when you shut the car off. If it returns to its default state, it is momentary.

I am wondering if there is a way to repurpose a switch on the existing panel, if one did not care about losing the function. OR perhaps it is possible to do it with no loss of function. thinking....thinking....

It is above my pay grade, but what if you ran one of the switches through a relay or something[so as not to affect its function] to ground the VESS signal. Maybe hitting the panel dim button would shut off the VESS[while also dimming the panel one click] One could hit the brighten button which would not affect the VESS
I have no idea if this is really practical or possible
 
Thanks so much for posting this! I will tackle this project soon. For now I was able to reach into the area behind the bumper and unplug the speaker, but this is way more elegant.
Is there really no way to order the actual switch from a European dealer? If all the wiring is there, one would just need to install the switch, right?
Question about the splice in: The two wires (blue/black and black) from your splice go straight to the switch, right? In the picture they just seem to disappear into the space behind the dash.
 
Thanks so much for posting this! I will tackle this project soon. For now I was able to reach into the area behind the bumper and unplug the speaker, but this is way more elegant.
Is there really no way to order the actual switch from a European dealer? If all the wiring is there, one would just need to install the switch, right?
Question about the splice in: The two wires (blue/black and black) from your splice go straight to the switch, right? In the picture they just seem to disappear into the space behind the dash.
I imagine one could order the part. if the ordering system is the same you would need a valid VIN for an EU car to get the part.
YEs the wires go from the splices to the switch.
 
I imagine one could order the part. if the ordering system is the same you would need a valid VIN for an EU car to get the part.
YEs the wires go from the splices to the switch.
I asked my sister in Germany to ask a local Kia dealership if the switch can be purchased. Unfortunately, they will not sell the single VESS switch, only the entire cluster, to the tune of about 200 Euros. Not worth it, so I will go ahead with the splice and button as you described it.
 
Each version of the switch cluster has a printed circuit board with surface-mount buttons, so it's more of a "can't" than a "won't"

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 
Each version of the switch cluster has a printed circuit board with surface-mount buttons, so it's more of a "can't" than a "won't"

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
That makes sense. I naively thought it was the same circuit board and the blank in the US version just needed to be replaced with the proper switch.
 
I asked my sister in Germany to ask a local Kia dealership if the switch can be purchased. Unfortunately, they will not sell the single VESS switch, only the entire cluster, to the tune of about 200 Euros. Not worth it, so I will go ahead with the splice and button as you described it.
Well, thanks for checking, some may find that price too high, others may not, but now we have a number
 
So I don't see wiring pinout for that switch, but the idea is you would have ground wired such that the LED is always grounded and the black/blue wire momentarily gets ground when you push the switch, and the pink wire goes to the positive of the LED. The part of the schematic I posted that shows 'VESS UNIT' and CARSH PAD SWITCH shows the same pinout you would use on your switch

OK towards the end of the video. there should be a '+' and '-' on the switch. Ground goes to the minus. Pink [from car] goes to '+' as I think this is the positive of the LED. One of the terminals marked 'NO' should get the blue/black wire and the other gets ground[so a jumper between '-' and one NC contact, the one that does not have the blue/ black on it

I think

Can you tell me if this switch will work? I like the looks of it but it has 5 wires. I am trying to follow exactly what you said above. The only part I don't get is the last part about jumping between - and NC? Is NC the normally closed pin on the switch? Does this mean connect the Normally closed pin to the same wire that I'm using for ground (black pin 24).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GTJBR59/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=A1POY47GM797OI&psc=1
 
Yellow Wire: NC
Blue wire: NO
Black wire: Led
Red wire: Led
Green Wire: Common

NC has no connection in this case. it is not needed
 
Yellow Wire: NC
Blue wire: NO
Black wire: Led
Red wire: Led
Green Wire: Common

NC has no connection in this case. it is not needed


OK...so let me make sure I have the wiring right then....Kia wiring harness on the left, switch wiring on the right below

KIA PINK to RED switch wire
KIA BLACK to BLACK switch wire
KIA blue/black to BLUE switch wire

Now where does the GREEN switch wire go to on the KIA harness?
And the YELLOW switch wire goes to nothing.

Much appreciated!! This is going to be huge.
 
Reading this thread is like reading another language. I don't speak "electrician" :( and I'm not at all comfortable taking this task on. What's a person to do if they're not technically inclined? My 2021 Niro HEV is SO incredibly loud when I back out... I know my neighbors hate me. We have all 5 garages in one courtyard and it echoes even louder than an open space. Kia will not assist in any way, as it's apparently required for all EVs made now (in the US), so they won't help me due to " liability". When I test drove before buying (it was a different car than the one I purchased) THEY had it disabled!! Because I backed it out of the space it was in and it didn't make a sound. :mad: Totally misleading...
 
If you have a capable mechanic, I think there is enough information here to guide them. If they balk at the wiring diagram, find a different mechanic
 
While this solution is the most elegant thus far, I think putting a switch in place of the fuse is the easiest. (Discussed in other threads) It's $50, but ultimately worth it. No disrespect to the ENirogus who figured all this out.
 
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