Repair issues and fixes

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<3

How far have you driven since it was changed? Just wondering if it comes back, as I didn't have it when the car was new, but it got worse as time went on.

My dealership was useless with the issue (as seen in my video showing their test drive)
,
and showing them that "someone else got it fixed" just irritates them :(

Hopefully the creator of the post I referred to chimes in with an update :
this one from 2 weeks later
https://insideevsforum.com/communit...-replacement-at-9000mi.7386/page-3#post-87867
 
Category: Drivetrain
Issue : Clicking Sound at low speed acceleration / higher-pitched rumbling at higher speed acceleration
Possible Fixes:
(1) Rotate Drive Shaft 180 degrees
(2) Replace Reduction Gearbox
(3) Replace E700 motor with E701 motor (installed with larger (4) x "11404 12756p : BOLT-FLANGE")
 
it has now been replaced,and my Kona EV has barely a squeal anymore.I looked super weird the first day I took it back because it was pretty chilly out,and i kept my window down to listen,weirdo,I know. Inside a parking garage I opened the window again,then went forward, reversed.

How is it now, 6 months later? Still no sound, or has it returned? How far have you driven since it was replaced?
 
How is it now, 6 months later? Still no sound, or has it returned? How far have you driven since it was replaced?
All's good,there's a slight "noise"while coasting,or parking lot low speed acceleration. Nothing like before where I sounded like I needed a brake job.Or in the video I posted driving in circles in a parking garageo_O
 
<3

How far have you driven since it was changed? Just wondering if it comes back, as I didn't have it when the car was new, but it got worse as time went on.

My dealership was useless with the issue (as seen in my video showing their test drive)
,
and showing them that "someone else got it fixed" just irritates them :(

For me,with COVID19 situation,I have probably done about 10000km/6213miles. The squeal,break noise hasn't returned.
 
You discovered the real reason WHY you don't charge above 80% on a DCFC! It takes a long or longer to charge from 80-100% as it does 0-80%, and when you're paying the the minute, well, the cost of that last 20% doubles the fee. On a car with only about 80-90 miles range that's extremely expensive to get only about 20 miles more range. On a Kona the difference is around 50 miles, but still, charging above 80% on a DCFC is reserved only if you really really need those extra miles and are willing to pay big for it.
It's still a fairness issue compared with gas.To see a poor late model leaf only pull about 20kW compared with my 40kW on a 50kW is wrong when it's time based fee versus kWh.
 
Well, there should be an incentive to not charge to 100% on a fast charger. So a time and kWh based price might be a good solution in the end.

However, fairly priced it needs to be. [emoji6]
 
Well, there should be an incentive to not charge to 100% on a fast charger. So a time and kWh based price might be a good solution in the end.

However, fairly priced it needs to be. [emoji6]
Perhaps making it prices per kWH only up to 80% and then by time makes sense?

But I also disagree to a point, the Kona charges at 50kw until around 92% on a 50kw charger.
 
I charged the other day at a 50kw (BC Hydro) charger, and it showed only 24k at 80%. Another person with an i3 showed up so I let him take it then. I know they have a smaller battery, and I had more than enough to get home.
 
I charged the other day at a 50kw (BC Hydro) charger, and it showed only 24k at 80%. Another person with an i3 showed up so I let him take it then. I know they have a smaller battery, and I had more than enough to get home.
As I would have done as well, where I charge there are two stations and my Kona keeps going to a little over 90% at 50kw, perhaps it is because of reasonable temps being I am on Long Beach, CA?
 
As I would have done as well, where I charge there are two stations and my Kona keeps going to a little over 90% at 50kw, perhaps it is because of reasonable temps being I am on Long Beach, CA?
When I got home, I checked plugshare to see the kw of that charger, as I know some are only 25kw max, but it said 50. Temps were not that cool, 28C, and I was driving just before, so I think my battery should have been warm. I know in the past on other chargers I have seen near 50 and more (if it was a higher power charger), when the SOC was much lower.
 
When I got home, I checked plugshare to see the kw of that charger, as I know some are only 25kw max, but it said 50. Temps were not that cool, 28C, and I was driving just before, so I think my battery should have been warm. I know in the past on other chargers I have seen near 50 and more (if it was a higher power charger), when the SOC was much lower.
In general, it is about 70F (21C) when I charge, maybe that's the difference? Or is it because the charger I wason stopped at 80% or so and I restarted it since no one was waiting?
 
Well, there should be an incentive to not charge to 100% on a fast charger. So a time and kWh based price might be a good solution in the end.

However, fairly priced it needs to be. [emoji6]
A good solution is to put an L2 AC charge outlet accompanying the DC charger so one can continue at a slower rate if required while freeing up the faster DC charger for others.
 
A good solution is to put an L2 AC charge outlet accompanying the DC charger so one can continue at a slower rate if required while freeing up the faster DC charger for others.
Yes, some of the newer BC Hydro stations here have that.
 
Why would anyone place an electric charge port on the nose of the car? Hyundai is not alone in this. It will be covered, even filled, with mud and frozen with salty wet road dirt in the winter. What was wrong with the front fenders??

Front fender would also work. Any car with a charge port in the rear fender has trouble getting charging cables to reach however.
 
Why would anyone place an electric charge port on the nose of the car? Hyundai is not alone in this. It will be covered, even filled, with mud and frozen with salty wet road dirt in the winter. What was wrong with the front fenders??
Umm, this is exactly where I want the charge port to be, anywhere else and you have to deal with backing into spaces to charge and really how would you be getting that much mud? Do you guys go off roading with this?
 
Umm, this is exactly where I want the charge port to be, anywhere else and you have to deal with backing into spaces to charge and really how would you be getting that much mud? Do you guys go off roading with this?

You don't need to go off roading. Watch the Kona winter test video by Bjorn. The radar sensor on my Prius got covered in the winter regularly which and makes the unit fail. We just sold our 2012 Mitsubishi iMiEV, which had the charge port on right rear. My Clipper Creek charger with 25ft long charger cable solved the problem. Backing up with rear view camera is still a challenge? I hope you are kidding.
 
You don't need to go off roading. Watch the Kona winter test video by Bjorn. The radar sensor on my Prius got covered in the winter regularly which and makes the unit fail. We just sold our 2012 Mitsubishi iMiEV, which had the charge port on right rear. My Clipper Creek charger with 25ft long charger cable solved the problem. Backing up with rear view camera is still a challenge? I hope you are kidding.
No, I am not kidding, especially in the MANY areas in California where backing into parking spaces is illegal and carries fines of up to $1,200 for doing so, no backup camera overcomes that. And I have a 25 ft charger, but that won't help me when out an about.
 
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