Repair issues and fixes
- Thread starter Francois
- Start date
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Checked Canada Hyundai site- no recall listed s/n KM8.......022465 ( manufacture date Dec 22/18), even though the driver dash display has twice gone black.
ehatch
Active Member
Sadly,Hyundai is making owners go into the dealership.Only get the fix if Hyundai applies it to your VIN.Since you've had the displeasure of having it happen twice,hope you got some media backup.What's weird,there doesn't appear to be any DTC?
No media back up and have discussed this with the dealer techs. They suspect low 12 V accessory voltage, which was true in one instance but due to the extremely intermittent occurrence, I suspect a software glitch somewhat reminiscent of the cause of the auto regen settings changing defaults on a somewhat similar time base . Its not a "perfect" car, but small imperfections don't bother me as I love what the Kona has to offer compared to what is available at the same price point from other manufactures (at least to this point).
Etienne Savard
New Member
DC Fast Charging not working when outdoor temperature is below -5C : https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...-fast-charging-not-working-port-led-red.7675/
The issue come and goes as the weather get colder or warmer... Level 2 is working. I will have my dealer to check it. No fix yet.
The issue come and goes as the weather get colder or warmer... Level 2 is working. I will have my dealer to check it. No fix yet.
mikeselectricstuff
Active Member
Copy of Hyundai TSB regarding coolant pump issues :
https://www.speakev.com/threads/water-pump-recall-fyi.145425/page-2#post-2764084
https://www.speakev.com/threads/water-pump-recall-fyi.145425/page-2#post-2764084
ehatch
Active Member
Compare with a Nissan Versa Note: 39 miles/gallon highway; gas $2.29/gallon; $4.85/78 miles.
PLugshare example of time based rip off.EA up to 75kW/ $0.15 minute: 40kw Nissan Leaf at 50% will take 1.5hr to charge?! This would be 20kWh for $16.50 USD to go about 87 miles/140km [100% - 175 miles/281km.]. To deter DCFC hogging,free,or payment,idling fees would be fine once an EV gets below 7kW,an in app. warning should go off about 10 minutes before so you can get back to the vehicle to move to L2,or drive on.
PLugshare example of time based rip off.EA up to 75kW/ $0.15 minute: 40kw Nissan Leaf at 50% will take 1.5hr to charge?! This would be 20kWh for $16.50 USD to go about 87 miles/140km [100% - 175 miles/281km.]. To deter DCFC hogging,free,or payment,idling fees would be fine once an EV gets below 7kW,an in app. warning should go off about 10 minutes before so you can get back to the vehicle to move to L2,or drive on.
ehatch
Active Member
Compare with a Nissan Versa Note: 39 miles/gallon highway; gas $2.29/gallon; $4.85/78 miles.
PLugshare example of time based rip off.EA up to 75kW/ $0.15 minute: 40kw Nissan Leaf at 50% will take 1.5hr to charge?! This would be 20kWh for $16.50 USD to go about 87 miles/140km [100% - 175 miles/281km.]. To deter DCDC hogging,free,or payment,idling fees would be fine once an EV gets below 7kW,an in app. warning should go off about 10 minutes before so you can get back to the vehicle to move to L2,or drive on.
View attachment 7282
PLugshare example of time based rip off.EA up to 75kW/ $0.15 minute: 40kw Nissan Leaf at 50% will take 1.5hr to charge?! This would be 20kWh for $16.50 USD to go about 87 miles/140km [100% - 175 miles/281km.]. To deter DCDC hogging,free,or payment,idling fees would be fine once an EV gets below 7kW,an in app. warning should go off about 10 minutes before so you can get back to the vehicle to move to L2,or drive on.
View attachment 7282
hobbit
Well-Known Member
I'm launching an investigation into the excessively high voltage that
the LDC maintains. 14.8 - 15 volts really is too high to float a lead-acid
battery, even an AGM, and that's backed by numerous references.
The result may or may not be a campaign to tweak the LDC output
voltage, or reflash the EPCU, or whatever... or it will just fall flat and
we'll be replacing our 12V bricks every 2 or 3 years.
The Hyundai customer-disservice people are forcing me into a
dealership visit to "diagnose and verify the problem". What a profound
waste of everyone's time. I own five or six voltmeters and there's
even one permanently installed in the car... and they all show the
same clear, ah, potential for overcharge. I'm scheduled for the visit
tomorrow, I'll keep y'all posted. This really has to just go straight up
to Techline, but they'd rather treat me like an idiot first. They really
tie their own hands with this blind adherence to "procedure".
_H*
the LDC maintains. 14.8 - 15 volts really is too high to float a lead-acid
battery, even an AGM, and that's backed by numerous references.
The result may or may not be a campaign to tweak the LDC output
voltage, or reflash the EPCU, or whatever... or it will just fall flat and
we'll be replacing our 12V bricks every 2 or 3 years.
The Hyundai customer-disservice people are forcing me into a
dealership visit to "diagnose and verify the problem". What a profound
waste of everyone's time. I own five or six voltmeters and there's
even one permanently installed in the car... and they all show the
same clear, ah, potential for overcharge. I'm scheduled for the visit
tomorrow, I'll keep y'all posted. This really has to just go straight up
to Techline, but they'd rather treat me like an idiot first. They really
tie their own hands with this blind adherence to "procedure".
_H*
KiwiME
Well-Known Member
I'm still puzzled by the difference I found in the TP thread where during driving the aux battery voltage data reported by TP and averaged in Excel settled down to 13.0 V after a few minutes driving. When trickle charging it's 14.7 V average and that was stable over 30 min.
I just checked the accuracy of the TP aux voltage PID against a meter across the battery. Amazingly it varied no more than +/- 0.01 V during "run" (but parked) and while charging at 1.6 kW (car power off). Both voltages were around 14.7 V, which I agree is too high by most standards.
I'm running a 2 hour log now while it's charging to see if/when there's any drop past the 30 min prior example I've already checked. EDIT: I just have to quickly change the logging interval to a more realistic value and noted it has already dropped to 13.0 V at zero current. Will report back in the other thread.
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Toolworker
Well-Known Member
If the unlock button in the door handle doesn't work, see if the Smart Key is sitting behind keys, wallet, etc. in your pocket or purse. This is reported to be able to block the signal.
Toolworker
Well-Known Member
I now believe this may have been a function of low voltage on the car's 12v battery. It only happened the day before the battery went dead.
RandallScott
New Member
The Kona EV doesn't have a rear drive unit.
RandallScott
New Member
You discovered the real reason WHY you don't charge above 80% on a DCFC! It takes a long or longer to charge from 80-100% as it does 0-80%, and when you're paying the the minute, well, the cost of that last 20% doubles the fee. On a car with only about 80-90 miles range that's extremely expensive to get only about 20 miles more range. On a Kona the difference is around 50 miles, but still, charging above 80% on a DCFC is reserved only if you really really need those extra miles and are willing to pay big for it.
That's true, which is probably why I wrote "gear drive"
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robxb
Active Member
<3
How far have you driven since it was changed? Just wondering if it comes back, as I didn't have it when the car was new, but it got worse as time went on.
My dealership was useless with the issue (as seen in my video showing their test drive)
,
and showing them that "someone else got it fixed" just irritates them
robxb
Active Member
Have you checked this again since the battery update? I wonder if that could have caused the exploding car in Montreal