Installing a Trailer Hitch?

electriceddy said:
Any word yet on troubleshooting or have you replaced converter and all is well?
Click to expand...

We will be replacing the power converter tomorrow. I bought a Zero Connect Interface version from Canadian Tire as it requires no wire splicing and is the only one readily available anyway. It should be a fairly quick process since the fishing of wire has already been done. We are headed camping next weekend so I want to make sure it is good to go before then! Will document and update my blog with new pictures when it is all done.
 
Chris Alemany said:
We will be replacing the power converter tomorrow. I bought a Zero Connect Interface version from Canadian Tire as it requires no wire splicing and is the only one readily available anyway. It should be a fairly quick process since the fishing of wire has already been done. We are headed camping next weekend so I want to make sure it is good to go before then! Will document and update my blog with new pictures when it is all done.
Click to expand...
Pricey item but convenient to have one local, hope it works out.
 
electriceddy said:
Pricey item but convenient to have one local, hope it works out.
Click to expand...

Ya, 50 bucks more than the original kit I got, but considering it is so much more widely available, and involves no splicing into the car wires, it is nice.

Just finished swapping out the bad controller, and all is working again! I’ll update my blog with pictures tonight but not a lot changed aside from the end product being a little bulkier for the induction clips and they give you a lot more wire to play with too, so used some more zip ties in the end to keep it reasonably neat.
 
Chris Alemany said:
Ya, 50 bucks more than the original kit I got, but considering it is so much more widely available, and involves no splicing into the car wires, it is nice.

Just finished swapping out the bad controller, and all is working again! I’ll update my blog with pictures tonight but not a lot changed aside from the end product being a little bulkier for the induction clips and they give you a lot more wire to play with too, so used some more zip ties in the end to keep it reasonably neat.
Click to expand...
Great to hear, have fun on your camping trip:)
 
To those of you who installed hitches: Have you noticed more of a tendency for the front tires to spin during acceleration when the hitch is loaded?


Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
 
Gsbrryprk8 said:
To those of you who installed hitches: Have you noticed more of a tendency for the front tires to spin during acceleration when the hitch is loaded?
Click to expand...

I haven’t noticed it any more than normal. I try not to go into formula 1 mode with a trailer though. :)
electriceddy said:
Great to hear, have fun on your camping trip:)
Click to expand...

The updated blog is posted! It has gone from modest howto to epic tome but hopefully it is useful. lol.
 
IMG_20200702_172703_2.webp IMG_20200702_173129_2.webp

I have this class 1 hitch installed by U-Haul, I used it primarily for bike rack and occasionally this class 1 cargo tray from CURT. Its fairly light weight (less than 30 lbs) but since the tongue weight of the hitch is limited to 200 lbs, i can only load up to 100 lbs of cargo. My Mom's portable mobility scooter fits perfectly (I just have to take the battery out due to its weight) perfect way to bring her around the parks with this. The Cargo tray is also particularly good to bring during camping trips loading the bulky but light weight things like tents and sleeping bags. I recently just used the SUV tent and had the Kona's Utility mode on... powered my camping gears with no issues with days worth of electricity for your camping needs.
 
James Orr said:
It was the 11529 hitch. I did it myself. The hitch was easy and quick - the bulk of the time was spent removing the plastic shrouding and then reinstalling it.

If I were to do it again however I would pay to have a custom 2” hitch made and installed. A 200 pound tongue weight and 2,000 pound towing is just too limiting.
Click to expand...

Here is an update:
I had the 11529 hitch reinforced with a 1” square tube connected from the receiver (welded) to the rear axle frame member (bolted). This is adding a huge amount of strength to the hitch.
I’m successfully and easily towing an 1,800 pound trailer with a 240 pound tongue weight.
Range is down by 30% on level ground @ 55mph.


Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
 
Looks very neat and nicely done. I guess the only concern I would have is that a relatively small rear end love tap will likely mess up the stamped independent rear suspension. I gotta feeling that would be much more expensive fix than just the typical crush in the rear unibody( wheel well). Oh well I guess that is what insurance is for :)
 
apu said:
Looks very neat and nicely done. I guess the only concern I would have is that a relatively small rear end love tap will likely mess up the stamped independent rear suspension. I gotta feeling that would be much more expensive fix than just the typical crush in the rear unibody( wheel well). Oh well I guess that is what insurance is for :)
Click to expand...

Well that’s truly a risk but as my trailer walls are made of styrofoam I think the trailer will take the bulk of any impact. When we aren’t towing I’ll certainly remove the hitch components so the receiver is somewhat recessed from the rear bumper. I think you are right that I cannot prevent damage to the rear suspension.


Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
 
For those with a trailer hitch, what settings do you need to switch off to disable the warnings when you back up your EV? I noticed even with an empty bicycle rack installed in the hitch, my Niro EV goes solid alarm when I shift into reverse. I'd like to hear from others what setting you need to switch/disable when using the hitch. Also, I think most of these setting reset back to "normal driving" whenever you restart your EV.
 
Gee, I hadn't seen those photos of the reinforced hitch despite them being promptly supplied at my request. Considering that "tongue weight" means a force directly on the tongue rather than on a moment arm a good half meter further back, I think that's a great solution and would massively improve the structural rigidity and strength of the towbar when a rack is installed. Given that the 'only' purpose of a towbar on a Kona EV is to hold a rack, it just seems silly to not do it this way. I've mentioned this moment loading situation on FB over a year ago and no one else had picked up on it.

index.php
 
electriceddy said:
Thanks for the updated blog, very detailed. If I see you on the road at least I will know who it is:D
Click to expand...

Just as an update, the hitch, trailer and lights have all performed well over the summer! We did a ton of camping, pulling some rocks and dirt, and a canoe. The lights have acted up a couple times with the brakes staying on after the car is switched off, but unlike the first wired set, this no-splice set seems to reset itself after a short time and all is well!

etcadman said:
For those with a trailer hitch, what settings do you need to switch off to disable the warnings when you back up your EV? I noticed even with an empty bicycle rack installed in the hitch, my Niro EV goes solid alarm when I shift into reverse. I'd like to hear from others what setting you need to switch/disable when using the hitch. Also, I think most of these setting reset back to "normal driving" whenever you restart your EV.
Click to expand...

On our Kona there is a button on the centre console nearest the centre arm rest/compartment that mutes the backup/proximity alarms. It toggles the alarms on and off, or until the car is turned off. When the car is turned on again the alarms are reset and on. It only took us a month and a lot of sore ears to find the button! :) Sure makes backing up a lot less stressful without it blaring at you!
 
Chris Alemany said:
Just as an update, the hitch, trailer and lights have all performed well over the summer! We did a ton of camping, pulling some rocks and dirt, and a canoe. The lights have acted up a couple times with the brakes staying on after the car is switched off, but unlike the first wired set, this no-splice set seems to reset itself after a short time and all is well!



On our Kona there is a button on the centre console nearest the centre arm rest/compartment that mutes the backup/proximity alarms. It toggles the alarms on and off, or until the car is turned off. When the car is turned on again the alarms are reset and on. It only took us a month and a lot of sore ears to find the button! :) Sure makes backing up a lot less stressful without it blaring at you!
Click to expand...
Just be careful as it can see a pedestrian in your blind spot well to the side of the car;)
 
etcadman said:
For those with a trailer hitch, what settings do you need to switch off to disable the warnings when you back up your EV? I noticed even with an empty bicycle rack installed in the hitch, my Niro EV goes solid alarm when I shift into reverse. I'd like to hear from others what setting you need to switch/disable when using the hitch. Also, I think most of these setting reset back to "normal driving" whenever you restart your EV.
Click to expand...

I don't have any unusual warning alarms on my Kona. I have a tray style bike rack (Yakima Holdup Evo, see photo) which covers a lot of the rear of the car but apparently not the sensors. My proximity alarm works normally (eg backing up when a pedestrian or other car is behind me) but doesn't react to the rack, whether it is folded up as in photo, or has bikes on it. The rack has been on all summer.

Incidentally one thing I like about the particular rack and car combo is that, although the rear hatch doesn't quite open when the rack is folded up, it is so close that all I have to do is tilt the rack back a couple of inches. There is a foot lever I press while tipping the rack ever so slightly and then the hatch will open.

IMG_9598.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top