Weak horn?

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Had another thought. The clarity cabin soundproofing is good compared to my last vehicle so maybe what I hear is reduced because the cabin is so quiet.

So I opened my windows and tried the horn again.

Nope, it is really weak. I need to find a fix for this. I wonder if a dealer will swap it out for me.
 
KentuckyKen said:
It’s not you, the horn is pathetically weak. I’m almost embarrassed to use it. I live in hope that someone will post where it is and where we can wire in a proper, “wake up, you idiot!” horn.
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Well Kentucky, I agree and after sitting behind someone too interested in their cell phone or text message to MOVE and GO at a green light (while I was behind them hitting the horn repeatedly) I decided to do something about it. I apologize for not having photos of the process but... It is not that hard unless you want to preserve the connections for "factory" use. The horns, hi and lo tone, are easy to get to, they are on the left side (if facing the engine) in front of the radiators. You remove the 4 pop up clips from the plastic plenum cover and then pull it up. There are 4 plastic clips (similar to door panel clips) that pop out so don't lose them. Then the cover is easy to remove (you will have to pull the air intake out of the rubber retaining strap, but it is sturdy). Once the cover is off, the "horns" are easy to remove. They are "2 wire" horns so that you are faced with a decision. Cut the connector off and splice in aftermarket horns, or make you own "adapter" as I was unable to find an adapter readily online. For me, I wanted to try and preserve a factory option should it later be needed, so I fabricated an adapter out of 14 gauge single strand copper wire (hammered the 1/4 inch ends flat to insert into the connector) and some heat shrink and zip ties. This allows me to connect a pair of inexpensive "auto-red-store-area" replacement horns by "W" olo in the factory location pretty easily. Bottom line is my car now sounds like a car and not a moped. Yes, there are more drastic options and I did consider the 153 decibel train horn with compressor, but... I have to stop somewhere right? Either way it is much louder, much less "toyish" and I am happy for the $25 it cost me. The factory horns were just to "Japanese Polite" for traffic in Texas....

Recommended, and super easy if you don't mind clipping wires. If you want to keep the connectors, then - yeah, a bit of a pain. If someone needs more details then let me know. However, the plastic air dam cover that is over the front (around the hood latch) is not hard to remove. The plastic clips have centers that pop out then you remove them. You need the tool, or two small flathead screwdrivers to pry each one up. Pry the center part up, then the rest of the clip is easy to remove. The air intake requires a bit of force to pull out of the strap, or you can remove the strap clips, but not necessary. If removing this cover over the radiator is an issue then wiring the horns may not be a good idea and getting help may be recommended. However, all in all I am impressed with the build quality and the plastic parts are not that fragile (except for those damn clips, they do break...)

Time for a subwoofer....

Cash
 
It would be great if you can take pictures of what you ended up with. Also, a link of the horn you used to replace. Thank you.
 
How many EV bars do you lose every time you pump those "auto-red-store-area" replacement horns? Just kidding, but it would be interesting to learn what kind of amperage the OEM horns draw compared with the "auto-red-store-area" replacement horns.

Perhaps Honda put "quiet" horns in the Clarity to ensure its drivers seem more polite and don't offend other drivers when Honda's trying to mainstream their plug-in hybrid technology. Just kidding.
 
@toomie posted a pdf of the fuse locations back in Jul. Here it is.
There are some open slots w full time power and the horn fuse is 10A located in fuse box A under the dash in position 20.
If you replace the horn using the original circuit, make sure it doesn’t pull more than 10A. If it does, you’ll need to wire in a relay with heavier wiring and larger fuse.
@Cash Traylor, thanks for showing us how to access it.

Now does anyone know a good place to run wires through the firewall?
 

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Alantn said:
It would be great if you can take pictures of what you ended up with. Also, a link of the horn you used to replace. Thank you.
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OK, so ask and.... since the dealerships have been lacking in support for the Clarity (they are figuring it out like us apparently) here you go. First, rule - if you make an "upgrade" take pictures for everyone. I didn't so I went back today and took it apart again to take pictures. Second, if you take anything using plastic clips apart more than once Murphy's Law states that those clips are twice as likely to break the second time, so... go ahead and grab a box of assorted Honda clips on Amazon for $20 and have them on hand. Yes, they are cheaper nylon plastic versus the factory, but if you have a box of 200 of them... well - who cares.

I could not take photos of the actual connector mod I did as it was a one shot deal, take it apart and I would have to start over. However, I have attached photos below and some links.

Horn is this: http://a.co/d/1F5sEyP
Ordered some of these today, will see if they fit: http://a.co/d/e6JClaZ

On the wire, if you decide to make your own versus cutting the cables or maybe something like this? http://a.co/d/8mDtFCW

Otherwise I hammered flat some 14awg wire, and trimmed to 1mm width and knife thickness (test for fit).

The question about original versus replacement amperage the factory are marked at 3.5 amps / 110db. These Wolo's are spec'd at 115 db at 7 amps. Since I don't use the horn continuously I am not concerned about the mW consumption they will consume (if you live in NY - then yes, your range will suffer! :cool: ).

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So, as in my first post the horns fit in without much work (as far as spacing, room, and bolts). They are working. As for the amperage and the factory spec, they are twice that of the factory (keeping in mind those numbers are max current, and I did not measure them directly). I have tested the horn like it would be used and the factory fuse has not blown. The factory HORN fuse is 10 amps. I have no plans to change it unless I have a problem with it blowing. You always want to use the lowest rated fuse possible for a circuit.

Again, if you get a harness adapter like the one I listed above, then this would be a 15-20 minute project. I ordered one of those adapters in case my frankenstein rig ever fails I can just replace it with the adapter harness.

Best wishes,

Cash
 
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This has little to add to Cash Traylor's excellent pictures, but for those who want a "big picture" view of where the fasteners are, here are the Honda SE bulletins for horn removal and replacement, that I just got access to last night.

[Edit: Added "front grille removal" bulletin]
 

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The pictures are better than the diagrams, so don’t hang up the phone yet..... I can see much more in the pics re how to approach the connectors and electrical.

Though if I had to pick one I’d go with pictures , as a general call, for any mod this combo is the ideal: diagrams so we can see the idea, pictures so we can see the practice.

Thanks for the uxcell adapter tip also—have one on order.
 
Vezz66 said:
Winter is coming...and snow attenuates sounds.

Just about to order these (CAN Amazon)

HELLA 011225891 Black 77mm 12V BX Disc Horn Kit (Honda) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01EG18JWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WfhIBbCWZPDCR

Seem to connect directly to honda plug.
Click to expand...

Very interesting! Hella makes good stuff. I look forward to reading about your installation experience and your satisfaction with these horns.

Here's the link to the same package on the US Amazon.com site, which also has the video that lets you hear these horns in anger:
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-011225891-Black-77mm-Honda/dp/B01EG18JWY/ref=sr_1_1

However, the configurator at the top of the Amazon page for these horns doesn't believe they will work with the Clarity.
 
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Sticking my neck out here but...
You will be dissapointed in that Hella horn wiring kit or the uxcell one. It has a single pin for Civic and Accord applications, the Clarity has 2 pins.
It will not mate to the Clarity wiring harness. I put in Hella trumpets and made my own FrankenAdapter, they sound great.
I'd like to replace my homemade adapter with a nice clean professional one, if anyone can find one that is a match.
 
PeteWagner said:
Sticking my neck out here but...
You will be dissapointed in that Hella horn wiring kit or the uxcell one. It has a single pin for Civic and Accord applications, the Clarity has 2 pins.
It will not mate to the Clarity wiring harness. I put in Hella trumpets and made my own FrankenAdapter, they sound great.
I'd like to replace my homemade adapter with a nice clean professional one, if anyone can find one that is a match.
Click to expand...

I was wondering about the compatibility. So the replacement requires a 2-pin connection with an adapter.

Will do more research.
 
Just ordered one by itself and College Hills Honda did not charge any shipping. Probably coming in an envelope.
Thanks for the link.

Now if I could just upgrade the headlights (still playing with the adjustment) and remove the knee knocker console wings, my Clarity would be perfect.
 
I still have a German Hela horn, which are normally installed on Porsche and other German cars. These horns are ultra loud... it’d be nice if I could make that work.
 
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